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Unread 03-06-2013, 07:57 PM   #1
brokenfish
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Ottawa Valley, ON
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Rubber tube of mystery!

Hey all. I'm swapping out some brake lines and came across of rubber line I can't figure out. It comes off of the top of my "brake hose body to axle." I have a pdf OEM parts catalogue, and it shows a screw going into its place.

So, what is this thing, what does it do? I need to swap out that brake hose and tee but am having a tough time getting this tube off. Can I just cut it? It looks like it's just stretched over some fitting.

As always, thanks for any help.





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Unread 03-06-2013, 08:19 PM   #2
Freestyle713
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Just the differential breather.
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[B]94 Grand Cherokee 5.2[/B] [SIZE="1"]33in. Federal Couragia M/T's on Procomp Steelies, np231 swap, IRO Hack n Tap SYE, Carolina Driveshaft, 4.5 in. lift, RE front upper/rear lower ca's, RC front lowers, Ironman rear uppers, IRO 4.5 coils in rear, 3.5 and 2" bb (no isolators) in front, Bilstein 5100's, Clayton/JKS adj. track bars, KOR rad support and SS, Magnaflow/Flowmaster exhaust, clear corners, custom light bar w/ Hella 500's[/SIZE]

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Unread 03-06-2013, 08:38 PM   #3
riot1987
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vent tube for your diff. Keep it. You dont want water gettin in
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Unread 03-07-2013, 03:29 AM   #4
Uniblurb
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Yeah, if that screws been out for a while that goes into the top of your axle you may want to check your differential/axle gear oil since fluid can get out and water can get in. Since there's slack in that hose it wouldn't hurt to cut it off and then put it back onto the new "T". I also looked it up on the parts list and hopefully you'll be able to find the right one. Noticed 2 different part numbers and 2 different screws. Good luck.
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
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Unread 03-07-2013, 05:46 AM   #5
brokenfish
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Awesome, you guys are the best. I'll check the diff oil before I get rolling again as well.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 01:47 PM   #6
Uniblurb
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No problem and believe the correct OE part number is 52007401 for your "Hose Assembly, Rear, Body to axle, w/Drum or Disc Rear brakes" listed under part #5 on the below diagram. Believe this is what we were referring to as a "T" w/hoses and lines attached. The key is "Body to Axle" in the description and great pic in showing this rubber hose is connected to a fitting on the body.

Unfortunately with most older OE lines w/fittings they cost a fortune. Mopar-Wholesale.com is probably the cheapest place around for OE parts. When I entered #52007401 in their search they said this part number has been superseded with 52007401AC and list is $207 while they sell it for $150 plus shipping! Forget that outrageous price!

http://www.mopar-wholesale.com/mopar-parts/catalog.html

Time to improvise and believe I'd do away with that 3-way block w/hoses altogether. Find a fitting which will fit directly in the top of the axle vent hole with threads on one end and hose barbs on the other. The screws were listed 1/4" dia and you'll have to check the thread which may be standard. Then once you have a fitting buy a gear oil resistance hose, attach it to the straight up breather fitting with clamps, wire tie it to the top of the axle with the brake lines, and then spice it into the existing hose attached to the body. You could run it to the body fitting by cutting the hose off but I'd be real careful about pulling on it as rusted as your body is. You'll have to leave enough slack in it for the axle to drop down from the body.

Then I'd run a new brake line from where the fitting is on the body bracket (by screw #7) to the line on the axle. You'll have to have a rubber hose in the line somewhere, or all rubber hose altogether, since the axle will be moving up/down. It will take some finagling but well worth the $ savings. Good luck, sorry for the book, and I'll probably have to making the same break line repairs on my 96 4.0.
brake-lines-hoses-rear-94-95-zj-fig-5-560-parts-list.jpg  
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 03:24 PM   #7
98GCLimited
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Vent tube for rear axle.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 07:52 PM   #8
brokenfish
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Thanks for all the ideas Uni. Lots of info is good. They have the hose/3-way "T" here, which I got for $60 here (yarg canadian prices!) so I'll be able to swap that out part for part.

I think I'll end up taking your advice on just running a barb up from the vent hole though and mount the "T" off to the side.

I was able to get the screw holding the "T" in place out so I could get a look at it. Turns out the screw wasn't the original part. It was actually just an old barb with the bottom ground off. The threads never made it past the "T", meaning the thing was just sitting in place, not sealed at all. Hopefully there are still threads in the vent hole and I'll be able to get something to hold.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 11:22 PM   #9
Uniblurb
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YW brokenfish and I'll have to keep track of that site because looks like a heck of a deal! Thanks for the link!

When I had checked that Mopar-wholesale site for the "T" part I also entered in the screw part numbers and they had both for $3-$4/each. Probably not worth opening an account and pay high shipping for those but are there any dealers up near you? Since you have the correct T-block w/lines believe you may want to attach it to the axle like it was.

Another option is to buy a straight vent type fitting with 1/4"-1" threads on one end and hose barbs on the other end. Then you could put a washer on it and run it though the block to the axle while installed a new vent tube from it to the body. Not sure how strong it would be but may work as an option.*

BTW, the bottom of my 96 is actually more rusted than yours being down here in the rust/salt belt. I have sitting down my basement 25' of poly coated 3/16" steel brake line, lots of fittings, and a new flaring kit which I bought through Amazon. Just waiting for the weather to brake (pun) so I can replace all of my lines. Good luck with yours!

*Edit: Those screws they list for holding the T-block to the axle may very well be like like a "bleeder screw" on a brake caliper where there's a hole in the center for the axle vent tube. Too bad it doesn't show the screw bigger in the diagram (#4) but the top of it doesn't look like any normal screw and you may install it with a wrench.
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 03-08-2013, 12:23 AM   #10
Afdude88
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If its just a t-line for a breather couldn't you use a t-line sold at parts stores for vac lines? Seems a lot cheaper to me

1993 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L AW-4
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Unread 04-08-2013, 06:18 PM   #11
brokenfish
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Hey all, just to bring this back, I ended up getting the part from the dealer. It was $5-10 and showed up the next day. I'll toss up a picture once I find my camera. Unfortunately the threads holding it in place wore/corroded away at some point in its life. I think I'll end up putting in something line what Afdude88 is suggesting.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 06:21 PM   #12
brokenfish
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Uni, the tube goes straight through, not like a bleeder, so I guess about anything will work.

I hear you on the rust. They throw salt on the roads 4-5 months of the year around here. I hope the weather's gone your way and you've got to play with your new toys.

Cheers all.
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