Rubber freeze plugs? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 49 Old 02-10-2010, 07:36 PM
phitmein
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I used one on my old car instead of having to pull the motor to put a metal one. They work well, but you have to replace them every year or so.

In my case it was the easiest fix and I was damn glad they make them.

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post #32 of 49 Old 02-10-2010, 08:41 PM
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Grow up kids. The expandable casting plugs do work especially in places that are just not accessible without pulling the motor, they just have to be watched closely as they are known to pop out or leak after a period of time. As for the casting plug being designed to pop out if the cooling water in the block jackets freeze, that is just not defendable.
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post #33 of 49 Old 02-10-2010, 09:04 PM
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post #34 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 12:03 PM
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Hi, I have never heard of the rubber plugs...can they be installed without removing the metal leaking one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 22remud View Post
Yea the freeze plugs are actualy for casting purposes to romove excess sand after the casting problem, as well as for when your motor freeze they are suppose to pop out. But sadly most METAL ones seize and corode or rust, and don't do there job. Which is why they have rubber ones. If installed corectly they do there job. And in your case usualy if a motor over heats the holes where the freeze plugs go sometimes warp. So rubber is usualy a better idea. I've installed them in a few motors and never had an issue. And for those who commented saying they should have freeze plugs to fit it, that is wishfull thinking on your part I run a fleet and when it comes to older vehicles it's is extreamly hard to get such specific parts alot of times. Which is why they make ruber expandable ones.

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post #35 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 05:09 PM
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No the metal ones must be removed first. Then the rubber one can be instaled.

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post #36 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22remud View Post
No the metal ones must be removed first. Then the rubber one can be instaled.
Kinda thought that...seems like if I go through the trouble of taking out the old why not put in a metal one?

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post #37 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 06:06 PM
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If you have the skills and are capable I'd put a metal one. But sometimes it blows then out on the 4.0s. I had a Cherokee that two of the six blew metal ones out twice. I put in rubbers and never had a problem for the last year I had it.

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post #38 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 06:33 PM
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In addition, it can be pretty damn tough to reach some of these freeze plugs. Sometimes it is easy enough to get a screwdriver on the old one to pop it out, but it is nearly impossible to get a straight-on approach to drive a new metal one home.

Ryan
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post #39 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 06:39 PM
22remud
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Yea that's a oh so true lol I have changed them on a few jeeps and wanna die every time....

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1992 XJ 4.0L NP231, 6inch Gonzo Lift, Cherry Bombed Exhaust,Custom Cowl Snorkel,33x12.50 BFG km m/t's
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post #40 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 06:52 PM
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People refer to them as freeze plugs when in my opinion if the water freezes very rarely will a freeze plug pop out. They are actually core plugs. Nothing more than a plug to button up the holes after manufacturing. The rubber plugs are more easily installed, just turn the nut and the rubber expands and contacts the block.
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post #41 of 49 Old 02-28-2010, 07:25 PM
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Do you live were it frezzes? Cause I did for 2 years and worked at a auto shop were it's was a common thing in the winter to come in for repair. We typicaly advised against the rubber ones up there tho. Because they tend not to come out so easily when water frezzes in the block.

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post #42 of 49 Old 03-01-2010, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22remud View Post
Do you live were it frezzes? Cause I did for 2 years and worked at a auto shop were it's was a common thing in the winter to come in for repair. We typicaly advised against the rubber ones up there tho. Because they tend not to come out so easily when water frezzes in the block.
I live in southern KY where it is usually pretty warm but this winter has sucked. I knew the Jeep had had the coolant system neglected when I bought it, the water looked like the previous owner took a **** in it. I've replaced all the hoses, radiator, and heater core and flushed it out and now the freeze plugs. This should be the last thing.

I am thinking of seeing how much a shop would charge to do this because I am tired of working on coolant issues.

Mark

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post #43 of 49 Old 03-01-2010, 04:33 PM
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How much should a shop charge to replace the plug?

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post #44 of 49 Old 03-04-2010, 08:56 PM
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Yes, how much WOULD a shop charge?

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post #45 of 49 Old 03-05-2010, 08:38 AM
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Replacement cost would depend on where the plug is located. If it is on the bottom of the block it would (obviously) be the cheapest because they're fairly easy to get to. If they are on the front or back of the block a lot more is involved in replacing them, such as removing the transmission if its the back or the radiator and pullies if its on the front.

I just got a quote to have ONE replaced that is on the bottom of the block behind the exhaust manifold, but fairly easy to get to. $667...reminded me why I do most of my own work on all my cars. Guess what I'll be doing this weekend?

Of course, I don't trust this shop at all. They once told me that both my motor mounts were shot (they had been replaced less than 12 months earlier).

Ryan
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