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Unread 09-05-2001, 09:08 AM   #1
blkchevyz
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: st louis
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rotor problem

damn rotors keep warping. is their any fix to this?? i talked to the dealer and they told me this is a common problem with the larger vehicles due to the fact that the government wont let them use aspestis in the pads. i read an old post about people switching to a drilled rotor but i would think that would cause more problems with such a heavy vehicle.

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black 94 z28 m6, 12.39 @ 111(old setup) 388 hp 357 torque n/a at the wheels and 12.12 @115 with a 75 hp shot (sold the kit). slp intake 58mm flp long tube headers 4 inch mufflex with custom tips custom program (lt1 edit) 3.73s ARE stage 2 heads and 306 cam, 30# injetors, bmr strut tower brase, supframe conetors, trailing arm, panhard bar, tpis 3.5 driveshaft, wait i mean I am bone stock.
black 97 grand prix gtp 14.24 stock
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Unread 09-08-2001, 09:31 AM   #2
HighCountry
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Obviously you are talking about some sort of GM vehicle, they have the CRAPPIEST brakes on the road.
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Unread 09-10-2001, 04:23 AM   #3
horatio102
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The problem is that the pads suck and the rotors are of inferior quality. Jeep finally realized this and started putting a little better pad on the 2001(maybe 2000) and up Grand Cherokees, from what I've heard.

The reason the rotors warp is heat. The pads aren't very good so they build up heat in the rotors. When you come to a stop the rotor cools off at different rates due to a hot pad/caliper next to one part and the rest not being insulated. The different rates of heat dissipation causes warpage.

When you switch to good pads and a set of x-drilled or slotted rotors a couple of things happen.
1) The pads are better, you stop quicker.
2) The rotors are a better quality (if you buy a good set)
3) The slotting (if you go that route) allows gasses built up between the pad and the rotor to bleed off while braking, increasing efficiency/decreasing fade.
4) The x-drilling does the same thing, and it also allows more airflow to cool the rotors.

But if you practice your 100mph-0 stops and stop for a little bit, you're probably going to warp anything. If you haul yourself to a halt quickly you might want to consider rolling forward a foot or two every couple of seconds to rotate the brake rotor, thus allowing a more even cool-down.
But I'm no engineer, what do I know?
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Unread 09-10-2001, 07:50 AM   #4
blkchevyz
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horatio thanks for the reply, i keep bring the car in for warenty work and all they do is turn the rotor. i would of thought they would of swapped pads by now. oh well after the warenty is over i will buy some better pads and rotors.

oh and by the way highcounty i have not had any brake problem with any of my GM cars just this damn jeep. so kiss my ***.
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black 94 z28 m6, 12.39 @ 111(old setup) 388 hp 357 torque n/a at the wheels and 12.12 @115 with a 75 hp shot (sold the kit). slp intake 58mm flp long tube headers 4 inch mufflex with custom tips custom program (lt1 edit) 3.73s ARE stage 2 heads and 306 cam, 30# injetors, bmr strut tower brase, supframe conetors, trailing arm, panhard bar, tpis 3.5 driveshaft, wait i mean I am bone stock.
black 97 grand prix gtp 14.24 stock
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Unread 09-11-2001, 02:31 AM   #5
horatio102
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Your GM's are lighter with most likely better brakes from the factory. After my dad got the brakes on his Yukon fixed, he hasn't had a problem. When he bought it it did a 10' side step when you hit the brakes. His Regal GS has never had problems either. None of my 3 Subarus had brake problems, nor my Honda. I didn't put enough miles on my Bronco to tell, but my parent's old '89 Caravan bent rotors like no tomorrow, as did my Jeep.

What year/model Jeep do you have? If they turn them too many times they're going to cut the life of the rotor down to nil, causing you to buy new ones. I would write a nasty letter to the GM and service manager about the brakes. I did something like that right when I got my Jeep and they kissed my butt bigtime from that point on. It helps if you go to a 5-star dealership because believe it or not, they're afraid to lose the certification.
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Unread 09-11-2001, 07:49 AM   #6
blkchevyz
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its a 2000 larado. your right about it killing the rotors life, the service manager been pretty cool to me about it so i'll give him a call see what he has to say. if that doesnt work i will try your idea. thanks
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black 94 z28 m6, 12.39 @ 111(old setup) 388 hp 357 torque n/a at the wheels and 12.12 @115 with a 75 hp shot (sold the kit). slp intake 58mm flp long tube headers 4 inch mufflex with custom tips custom program (lt1 edit) 3.73s ARE stage 2 heads and 306 cam, 30# injetors, bmr strut tower brase, supframe conetors, trailing arm, panhard bar, tpis 3.5 driveshaft, wait i mean I am bone stock.
black 97 grand prix gtp 14.24 stock
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Unread 09-14-2001, 08:11 PM   #7
grndspt
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My 99 Grand Cherokee Laredo has gone through 2 sets of rotors on my third
And second set of pads because of a supposed redesign
My Jeep has been one BIIIIIIIIIIIIIG Lemon!!!
Oh yeah it only has 16,200 miles.
I try to like the vehicle but it seems to like my dealership (service dept.)better than me By the way this is my first post, I just found this place.
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Unread 09-17-2001, 08:42 PM   #8
HighCountry
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Hey sorry, I just thought you were talking about the vehicle you had listed at the bottom of your post! And in my personal experience, only my GM vehicles have ever had brake problems.

Bruce
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Unread 09-24-2001, 11:41 PM   #9
Neil
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Get Stillin rotors. Cross drilled, last longer and stop better than stock. Kolak@aol.com sells them for a good price and is very reputable
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Unread 10-26-2001, 04:02 PM   #10
Vinnie
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I have 6 months left on my 1999 GC lease. The front rotors warped at 10k and again at 18k. The dealer charged $180.00 to procut the all four rotors and would not consider it warranty, nor would the folks at Chrysler. I guess I won't be getting another one.
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Unread 11-13-2001, 09:54 PM   #11
cybrface
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The dealer just replaced the rotors on my 1995 ZJ for free since there was a recall.
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