Roof Mounted Lights Wiring Kit - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 32 Old 10-23-2009, 07:26 PM
Falkon
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Flex, have you ever seen a really old style fuse box w/ the "screw in" fuses. I suppose you would "upgrade" them w/ a penney like in the good old days.

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post #17 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 06:02 AM
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It blows my mind that some people are stupid enough to do stuff like that and then have the balls to come here and brag about it.

I said early in this thread to use two relays and a single switch. I'm glad someone else finally agrees.

Or better yet, 2 switches and 2 relays. You may not always want to have all 4 on at the same time. At least with 2 switches you have the option.

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post #18 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 09:18 AM
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Wow. I thought my setup was bad until I read about the dome light thing. Mine are wired from the battery, a relay (switch on parallel circuit), up my a-pillar, under the weatherstrip, and to the lights, which are 4x 55-watt tractor lights. I used 14awg wire and a 30-amp relay. It looks like the sun coming down the road at night.

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post #19 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 02:08 PM
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well i guess i'll find out huh? lol

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post #20 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ZJ_flexxxer View Post
well i guess i'll find out huh? lol
why not fix it instead of thumbing your nose at safety?

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #21 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 02:51 PM
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Don't get too close,I'm really stupid when it comes to "Jeep Things". It might catch fire!
Fixed your signature for you.........


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post #22 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ZJ_flexxxer View Post
well i guess i'll find out huh? lol
Hope you don't get yourself or anyone else killed WHEN your Jeep goes up in flames.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

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post #23 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by the88thpianoman View Post
Look at page 2 of my build thread for proper wire routing for overhead lights.

Due to the excessive current required by four 130 watt lights, I would recommend running one switch, to two separate relays. Your relays should be rated for 30 amps or more each. Your fuses (use four) should be 25 amps each. Place fuses within 12" of the battery on the lines going to the relays, and immediately after the main output on the relays to the lights. This will prevent any ground out from starting a fire, including the unlikely event of one of the relays failing. Use a ten gauge wire, nothing smaller, from the battery to the relays and from the relays to the lights. You can use as small as 18 gauge on the wiring going to and from the switch. I'm not sure how your light bar connects, but if it has a reasonable connection to the unibody you can ground the lights to the light bar and that will be your negative connection to the battery. I'll be happy to help with any other questions you have.
Thanks.

I had some one locally (Buddy of mine, who does electrical (not automotive) work suggest something, but I'm kind'a questioning it:
Simply put, he said: 10 Gauge wire, from battery via an inline fuse (at the correct rating) to a 50amp switch, then straight to the Lights, then grounded obviously.

My question.. What is 10gauge wire rated to? 55amp correct?

The lights pull: 4x130w = 520w/12v = 43.33amps

50amp Switch should be good, thus eliminating the relay, correct? The way it was explained to me (Please correct me if this is wrong..) is that the relay is basically there because most switches aren't rated for that much pull, thus would burn out the switch.

Is it Really that simple?
Battery - 10 Gauge wire - Fuse - 50amp Switch - Lights- Ground.
it seems like it shouldn't be that simple..

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post #24 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 04:19 PM
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10 guage wire is rated for 30 amps.

79' CJ7 - 82' CJ8 - 94' YJ - 96' ZJ
Diagonally parked in a parallel universe.......

Last edited by Area.3.Fiftyone; 10-25-2009 at 06:28 AM.
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post #25 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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alright, just looked into it deeper I guess a single strand is 55, but when bundled drops to 33.
Could i double the sys then? two lights will pull 21.66amps,

(Ive already got an abundant amount of 10gauge wire i could use. and spending a little on switches and inline fuses would be cheaper then anything else)

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post #26 of 32 Old 10-24-2009, 08:51 PM
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Your electrician friend is right, a 50amp switch would be fine. But switches that size are huge.

We use relays to add in another layer of protection and so we can use a tiny switch.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #27 of 32 Old 10-25-2009, 01:23 AM
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The crazy thing here is that anyone could think that as long as its 12v you can splice into it. There is a reason why there are fuses. For roof lights there is really only one way to hook them up, from the battery. The 5 mins it takes to do it right is priceless. Run 10 gauge from the battery to the relay then from the relay to the lights. Splice off the 10 gauge to the lights only. You can make this wiring harness yourself for less than 20-30 dollars, plus no shipping. If you dont know the rules of electric work dont post a reply, unless you are willing to help this guy pay his deductible when his jeep catches fire.
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post #28 of 32 Old 10-25-2009, 06:24 AM
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My father is a retired union electrician and I've been working with him my whole life.

10 guage is only rated for 30 amps. It can handle more current in shorter runs, but it will not be sufficient for longer runs. You can check the code if you don't believe me.

I'm not going to say any more about this. Get yourself a big a$$ 50 amp switch and wire it right to the battery like your friend suggested.

It's your rig do you what you want............

Check wire ratings here

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post #29 of 32 Old 10-25-2009, 07:45 AM
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Am I reading it wrong? According to the chart 10 ga is good for 55 amps. Whatever. Most people don't want to run a proper load carrying size wire into the dash and mount a huge switch. Hence the use of a relay. Trigger wire & switch can be really small. See post # 27.
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post #30 of 32 Old 10-25-2009, 09:36 AM
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Ok, we're talking about a constant draw of 520 watts. At 12v, that's 43.3 amps. That is a LOT of power. If you run 10 gauge wire to a switch and to the lights, things are going to get hot fast. Now, it might work, at least for short durations, but that wire and switch are going to get burning hot. I use relays for everything except the fog lights I just installed. Those are 65 watts each, for a total of 130 watts or 11 amps. For this, I'm using 14 gauge wire and a 30 amp switch. Even with this overkill setup, the switch gets quite warm. You're talking about squeezing four times that power though a marginally increased amount of copper. It is not a good idea, plain and simple. Just use the setup I explained in my first post in this thread, that is the safe way to do it.

Another way to think about it is look at what amp wiring kits are rated for. If you wanted to install a 520 watt amp, that kit is going to come with at least 6 gauge wire. Personally I'd run that with four gauge, but I like to do things safely. Now try to picture putting that kind of load through a tiny 10 gauge wire AND an interrupter switch. That's exactly what we're talking about doing here.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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