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Unread 10-22-2009, 04:40 PM   #1
GuessWho
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Roof Mounted Lights Wiring Kit

Issue:

I ordered the Hard-KOR ZJ Roof-Mounted Light Bar w/ (4) 130w.Lights kit from Kevin's Off Road, Thinking that "They come with the harnesses and wiring. Switches are NOT included" ment that they would come with harnesses and wiring, apparently I was mistaken because all I got was the Light Bar, and four lights with ~3inchs of wire sticking out of them. (I'm in discussion with their sales reps at the moment about this...)

What my question is, is what Wiring / relays / etc.. (aside from a Switch) do I need? Would This 6310 | KC HiLITES do? if so, is it simple to wire it so that all four lights are worked in? I don't need multiple switches, simply one for all four lights is all I was looking for.

Please let me know, any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

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Unread 10-22-2009, 05:28 PM   #2
WhiteOut
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Should work but they should have sent you the harnesses for the lights.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 05:41 PM   #3
shocklee17
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Harness

The only problem is that harness if designed for 2 lights. You could splice into that harness to support all four lights but you would run the risk of blowing the fuse and relay. I would suggest 60 amp minimum for 4 lights. Find one made for 4 lights, im sure they are out there. Also i looked at that page on kevins off road and it definitely says if comes with the harness. They should supply you with one for sure.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 05:59 PM   #4
GuessWho
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so, Grab a 60amp relay instead of the provided 40 and splice in the additional two lights? that simple?


They also have this 6316 | KC HiLITES, that in addition should do er right? (but I'm not happy about having to spend ~$100 on the wiring for something I thought was included... but I guess it is what it is...)



Edit:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p66.html ?
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Unread 10-22-2009, 07:29 PM   #5
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Or just go to the junkyard and grab a bunch of 30 amp relays for practically free. They come in everything these days. I have a box full of them just waiting for my light install.

Wire them in parallel and use a single switch to power both relays. One 30 amp relay for each set of lights.

I personally would run 2 different switches with their own relays. I'd rather be able to control each pair individually instead of all of them being on all the time.

Sorry, but while we are on topic: What is the best way to get power up to the roof without drilling a hole? Do you guys run the wire out of the hatch?
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Unread 10-22-2009, 07:38 PM   #6
02grand
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I had to drill a hole in my roof rail and use sealant to seal it up. AS FAR AS WIRING i RAN ALL MINE TO ONE SWITCH USING two 30 amp fuses ran in sucession. Sorry about caps, didnt want to rewrite it.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 08:12 PM   #7
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02grand View Post
I had to drill a hole in my roof rail and use sealant to seal it up. AS FAR AS WIRING i RAN ALL MINE TO ONE SWITCH USING two 30 amp fuses ran in sucession. Sorry about caps, didnt want to rewrite it.
30 amp fuses must be in parallel to rate as a 60 amp protection, not series(ran in succession). you should also be using 10ga wire at a minimum for that kind of amperage.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 07:01 AM   #8
Area.3.Fiftyone
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That is why I said you can use one switch and 2 relays. The switch only needs to trigger the relays.

You can run the lights as pairs and distribute the load across smaller wire and use readily available 30 amp fuses and relays instead of a 60 amp circuit with much heavier wire, relays and fuses.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 02:32 PM   #9
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Just got off the phone with the guy who I had been emailing back and forth, He agreed with what I said (as it stated, harness and wiring included, minus a switch) and would be talking to Kevin that afternoon about working something out for me. (Also, got that sent to me in an email as well).

Apparently the 'New' site which is what i was looking at, was formed using their old old setup which had previously stated wiring kits were included, which as been changed on there 'Old' site.

Anyways, I'm looking into that KC kit, found it for $44 plus a 60amp Relay for $6 + shipping. The KOR guy (Bryant) said that should work, and apparently is what he has done with his setup as well (though, he built it himself)

Only thing I cant find is what gauge wiring the KC kit uses.

Edit:
called KC up, that kit (part 6310) uses 14gauge wire, so splicing in two lights should be no problem. but Id still need a higher amp relay. he said 4x 130watt lights will pull 43 amps.

Called up the place with the 60amp relay, they said its a "change over"? I need to find one that is not change over / alternating correct?, How do I know if it is alternating, or not?


so, I can either find a 50amp relay, or run a 2nd 30-40amp relay, and double the wiring from the lights down to the relays.
Correct?
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Unread 10-23-2009, 06:01 PM   #10
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its really pretty easy to wire them up.i wired all the lights up to one hot wire,then ran the hot wire in my roof through the remote start antenna hole that was already in my roof.i hooked the hot wire to the hot wire on my dome lights which were right under the hole for the antenna on the inside.i put a toggle switch on the hot wire going to the lights and mounted it to overhead console.then i hooked all the grounds together and grounded them to my roof rack.i then looked in my manual for which fuse in my fuse panel was for the dome lights.upgraded it from a 15 to a 30 and i was good to go.the lights work great.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 06:23 PM   #11
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That is probably the worst thing anyone could do. Hooking them up to your dome lights.



The wiring was NEVER meant to carry that kind of amperage and installing a bigger fuse is just a fire waiting to happen.




The wire will burn long before the fuse ever blows...........
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Unread 10-23-2009, 06:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp
70 Amp Cole Hersee High Capacity Mini Relay
SPST
Includes Mtg Bracket
Cap Material = Plastic
4 Terminals
# 85 .250
# 86 .250
# 30 .375"
#87 .375
12 Volts
70 Amps
Continuous Duty

Would that work?
or

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp
70 Amp Cole Hersee High Capacity Mini Relay
High Capacity Mini Relay
SPDT
Cap Material = Plastic
5 Terminals:
# 85 .250
# 86 .250
# 30 .375"
#87 .375
#87a .375
12 volts
70 amps
100 Ohms Resistance Features
Continuous Duty
Includes Mtg Bracket
Unsealed
Can Be wired to be used for permanent magnet motors.
Such as Small Winches, Small Hoist
Any Small Reversible Permanent Magnet Motor.

I dont know enough about the wiring / relays...
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Unread 10-23-2009, 07:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJ_flexxxer View Post
its really pretty easy to wire them up.i wired all the lights up to one hot wire,then ran the hot wire in my roof through the remote start antenna hole that was already in my roof.i hooked the hot wire to the hot wire on my dome lights which were right under the hole for the antenna on the inside.i put a toggle switch on the hot wire going to the lights and mounted it to overhead console.then i hooked all the grounds together and grounded them to my roof rack.i then looked in my manual for which fuse in my fuse panel was for the dome lights.upgraded it from a 15 to a 30 and i was good to go.the lights work great.
wow. possibly the worst choice you could have made.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 08:14 PM   #14
the88thpianoman
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Look at page 2 of my build thread for proper wire routing for overhead lights.

Due to the excessive current required by four 130 watt lights, I would recommend running one switch, to two separate relays. Your relays should be rated for 30 amps or more each. Your fuses (use four) should be 25 amps each. Place fuses within 12" of the battery on the lines going to the relays, and immediately after the main output on the relays to the lights. This will prevent any ground out from starting a fire, including the unlikely event of one of the relays failing. Use a ten gauge wire, nothing smaller, from the battery to the relays and from the relays to the lights. You can use as small as 18 gauge on the wiring going to and from the switch. I'm not sure how your light bar connects, but if it has a reasonable connection to the unibody you can ground the lights to the light bar and that will be your negative connection to the battery. I'll be happy to help with any other questions you have.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 08:17 PM   #15
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJ_flexxxer View Post
its really pretty easy to wire them up.i wired all the lights up to one hot wire,then ran the hot wire in my roof through the remote start antenna hole that was already in my roof.i hooked the hot wire to the hot wire on my dome lights which were right under the hole for the antenna on the inside.i put a toggle switch on the hot wire going to the lights and mounted it to overhead console.then i hooked all the grounds together and grounded them to my roof rack.i then looked in my manual for which fuse in my fuse panel was for the dome lights.upgraded it from a 15 to a 30 and i was good to go.the lights work great.
Invest in a fire extinguisher IMMEDIATELY. Or better yet, undo everything you described doing here, and follow my description above for proper wiring. You WILL start a fire with what you have described; it is definitely a matter of when and not if.
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