I like the look, but it is NEVER a good idea to run a high amperage wire inside your vehicle for risk of fire. Much more efficient and infinitely safer to use a relay and low amp (0.3A) switch inside your vehicle and leave the high amp, high temp wiring in the engine compartment where it belongs...
all the relay does is eliminate the need for a high amperage switch. the wires going up to the lights are still going to draw the same amount of current. you didnt mean to run the lighting switchleg on the outside of the vehicle, did you? because that would be the only way to address your concern other than LED's. also, as long as wire is fused properly and the connections are tight it doesnt matter what you run inside the vehicle. an overloaded and improperly fused #8 gauge wire with 60amps of current on it is just as dangerous as a #16 gauge wire with 30 amps of current on it. when you speak of a relay being "MUCH MORE EFFICIENT" what are you refering to? the equipment you are supplying uses exactley the same amount of wattage. you can do anything you want between the battery and the equipment but, the equipment still uses the same amount of power. following is a brief run down of electricity:
i posted this for another thread recently. i hope it is helpful for a basic understanding of electricity. you truely need a meter before attempting anything electrical!!! power is a calculation based on the voltage and current. power and watts are the same thing. this is how we measure what we use and what we pay for, "kiloWATTS". voltage is the same as "JUICE". it is produced(supplied)electromotive force. current is the same as amperage, draw and load. the battery/alternator will supply the voltage, 12v, unless a transformer or capacitor is involved, dont worry about that. the amount of power(watts) is determined by multiplying the voltage by the amperage. this sum gives you the WATTAGE. now that you understand that power is "USED" and not supplied we will move on. the key for you is to divide the "TOTAL WATTAGE" by the "SUPPLIED VOLTAGE" which will give you the "TOTAL AMPERAGE". this is your concern. if you have amperage that is not fused properly, the wire will act as the fuse. this is how fires are started. this would be a typical calculation example: 2-fog lights 55 watts each = 110 "TOTAL WATTS" divided by 12 volts(SUPPLIED VOLTAGE) equals 9.16 "TOTAL AMPS". fuses are designed to fail at 80% of their rating, hence a 15 amp fuse will blow at 12 amps. so, a 15 amp fuse is what you would need or already have in the example circuit. unless, other equipment is supplied by that same circuit,then the fuse and wire would be larger. the fuse is required to protect the wire so it does not become overheated(a fuse) and start a fire. the secondary consideration is to protect the equipment. this is a common misconception, the fuse is for the wire first,not the equipment. next, since fuses are for the wire, #14 wire for a 15 amp fuse, #12 wire for a 20 amp fuse, #10 wire for a 30 amp fuse and #8 wire for a 40 amp fuse. you can connect multiple pieces and types of equipment on a circuit as long as when you ADD all your amperges it equals no more than 80% of your fuse size!!!!!!! make sure your wire and fuses are per the ratings above. also, make sure your switch is rated the same or larger than the fuse or the switch may overheat(BECOME THE FUSE) and could start a fire. if using a large switch is impractical use a relay instead. this is where most people would want help from someone with electrical knowledge. there are alot of variables, so here are a couple of simple problem solvers: voltage x amperage = wattage wattage / amperage = voltage wattage / voltage = amperage
remember that if you have any two of the values you can ALWAYS find the third!!!!!!!!!!! before all the disagreements start, i am a master electrician and what i posted is safe and fact. hope this helps, ron
aussie rear end, drilled and slotted rotors, ceramic brake pads, ironman adj.front upper/lower and rear lower control arms, teraflex 4" spring lift, fat bobs 2' bb, rusty's drop pitman arm, jks adjustable trackbar, moog tie rod ends/ball joints, rancho 9000 shocks, kor dual stabilizer, rough country front and rear bump stop extensions, homebrew front quick disconnects, rough country rear swaybar link drop kit, IRO a-arm spacer, transfer case drop kit, homebrew rocksliders, rola roof rack, speed bleeders, 2" wheel spacers, 4-treadwright guard dog mt 265/75/16, mud flaps, superchip, k&n cold air intake, straightpiped, chrome tailpipe tip, v-led hid headlights w/halo, v-led hid foglights w/halo, kidde fire extinguisher w/bracket, maglite w/mounting bracket, cobra cb, firestik antenna, white gauges gauge face overlays, viair compressor, blue led interior lighting upgrade, hi lift 48" jack, hi lift jack base, wind deflectors for: hood, moon roof and windows, sony stereo, garmin nuvi gps, recovery D ring, interior mount keyed battery switch, custom dash brackets for gps, cb, sat radio, cellphone, bumper mount halogen reverse lights, cobra radar detector, smittybilt gear seat covers and tailgate organizer, browning rooftop camo cargo bags, grille insert, washer fluid reservoir relocation, foldup cargo carrier, aluminum side steps, addco rear swaybar, deer whistles, mobile one synthetic oil, slick 50 high mileage oil additive, k&n oil filter
reece front hitch, warn winch, elocker or arb front selectable locker, bulldog remote start, hi lift essential parts kit, 2-hella driving lights, gerry can and bracket, stinger bar, wood dash kit, snorkel, washer fluid heater, rear swing tire carrier, finish the skid plates, fender flares, addco front swaybar
Last edited by ronsaun; 06-04-2010 at 10:08 AM.