Replacing Rear Lower Control Arm? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
dgilluly
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Replacing Rear Lower Control Arm?

Today I was looking at the rear shocks to see how to replace them, I think I discovered a more serious problem. It appears that the rear lower control arm(passenger side) cracked right through to the rubber bushing. I can stick my pinky right into the crack and feel rubber. Anyone know how to change these? I don't want to drive it very far knowing that it's not safe for the road.



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post #2 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 01:15 PM
PeriwinkleZJ
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Two 21mm bolts. Should new able to just unbolt or and bolt it right back in. If not using a jack to move the axle up and down should align it.

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post #3 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 04:34 PM
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post #4 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 04:41 PM
TheHalfWit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeriwinkleZJ View Post
Should new able to just unbolt or and bolt it right back in.
Bwahaha, you think that will just unbolt like that?

You must be joking, Mine were that bad and it took a 3 foot cheater bar and I soaked them in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks in advance.

My advice would be look into getting a red wrench, it will speed things up immensely.

Calm. C.

If a week goes by without needing to replace something, pinch me because I must be dreaming.
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post #5 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHalfWit

Bwahaha, you think that will just unbolt like that?

You must be joking, Mine were that bad and it took a 3 foot cheater bar and I soaked them in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks in advance.

My advice would be look into getting a red wrench, it will speed things up immensely.
Mine were easy to run off with an electric impact wrench.

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post #6 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 04:48 PM
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Mine come out easy just needed a ratchet and socket.

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post #7 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 04:51 PM
TheHalfWit
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My point is that is so rusty that the shell has rusted clean away. That bolt will be seized in there like a son *****, now I can take mine out with a ratchet but the original bolts didn't come out with an impact wrench.

Calm. C.

If a week goes by without needing to replace something, pinch me because I must be dreaming.
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post #8 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 04:54 PM
jtackerman28
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If he cleans it enough before he can probably get the out. A can of pb blaster and a lot of wire brushing

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post #9 of 16 Old 05-09-2012, 05:21 PM
hdrocknroll
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I used atf & acetone mix the day before, then an impact wrench, the nuts came right off.
You need to set it on the ground when you tighten them up.
You can replace the bushings or, for a little more money the whole c arm, Rock Auto has the parts.
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DSCI0281.JPG   DSCI0284.JPG   DSCI0286.JPG   Bushings.jpg  

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post #10 of 16 Old 05-10-2012, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
dgilluly
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I'll probably use the impact wrench on it. I've always had good luck doing that but sometimes breaks the bolts and then I usually just pounded them out. When I do these kinds of repairs myself, I usually get replacement bolts and nuts. Sometimes I have to use heat to get them out as well. I stopped by advanced auto parts today and they don't even have them in stock, so I'll probably be making a trip to autozone or napa in the next couple of hours.

I'm a college student and self-employed computer technician.
CompTIA A+ certified, and soon to be CompTIA Network+ certified as well
I currently own a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee, pretty much all stock instead of the sound system.
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post #11 of 16 Old 05-10-2012, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
dgilluly
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Couldn't find the parts locally, I'll probably end up ordering it from rock auto. But looks like the arm will stay on with a closer inspection, the side parts of the control arm are still in tact, and will still hold it to the bushing though it may result in uneven wear. If need be I'll see if I can get one of my friends to weld it while I wait for an order to come in. I'm still going to change the rear shocks(They needed to be changed anyway.), just bought a pair of guardian pros.

I'm a college student and self-employed computer technician.
CompTIA A+ certified, and soon to be CompTIA Network+ certified as well
I currently own a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee, pretty much all stock instead of the sound system.
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-11-2016, 03:42 AM
Pameela
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All of the forces that accelerate the car, as well as much of the braking loads, pass through the rear lower control arms. In stock form, the excessive deflection allowed by the original rubber bushings prevents the rear axle from maintaining its correct position under the chassis. The axle is allowed to shift forwards, backwards, and sideways under the car, leading to poor traction and poor handling
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post #13 of 16 Old 03-11-2016, 03:57 AM
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4 years late to the party much?

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post #14 of 16 Old 03-11-2016, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pameela View Post
All of the forces that accelerate the car, as well as much of the braking loads, pass through the rear lower control arms. In stock form, the excessive deflection allowed by the original rubber bushings prevents the rear axle from maintaining its correct position under the chassis. The axle is allowed to shift forwards, backwards, and sideways under the car, leading to poor traction and poor handling
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-11-2016, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pameela View Post
The axle is allowed to shift forwards, backwards, and sideways under the car
That's a feature, not a bug.
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