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post #1 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
joker1994
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Replace shocks

Ow do you replace the front shocks on a 95 zj with the inline 6

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post #2 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 08:31 AM
riot1987
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Take the tire off, Unbolt the shock at the axle end(two bolts). Pop the hood to get to the body side bolt, I think one side is kinda buried by your overflow tank. Take out the old ones and then put your new shocks in.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

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post #3 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 08:38 AM
ejschultz
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The last time I did my front shocks, I left the front wheels on. I just turned them to get to the shock mount on the bottom.

97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, bumpers, bunch o' skids, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 09:21 AM
Uniblurb
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Best start hosing down the nuts which hold the shocks on with rust-cutter first along with where the bottom of the shock slides on the bolt. There's no pressure on the shocks so jacking it up is only to create room for you to work.

Not sure if the the 95 4.0 is the same as the 96 4.0 but on mine the passenger side top shock nut was easy to remove while the driver's side is under the ABS and all the brake lines. A ratcheting box end wrench works the best since I couldn't get a socket in there. Besides you need to hold the top shock shaft above the threads with a 5/16" open end wrench or small vice-grips. I found it easier on a real rusted nut on the driver's side to hold the outer shock tube in the wheel-well with large channel-locks or a pipe wrench and had the wheel/tire off. Takes a little stretching to hold this tube while removing the top nut.

Install the bottom of the shock before cutting the plastic/nylon throw-away piece holding the shock together. And have your washers/rubber spacers installed on the top of the shock and in the hole above. Good luck!
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 11:01 AM
AVR2
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I did it with the wheels on too. I found I needed a swivel-head ratcheting box-end wrench to get the top nut off the driver side shock.
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 01:32 PM
ejschultz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
I did it with the wheels on too. I found I needed a swivel-head ratcheting box-end wrench to get the top nut off the driver side shock.
I've got the Kobalt Xtreme Access 49 piece set and it worked wonders for that. Ratcheting wrenches work well too though.

97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, bumpers, bunch o' skids, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 02:44 PM
JasonStebbins
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No need to remove the tires. I usually unbolt the master cylinder bracket to get to the driver's side top bolt. Be careful not to strip out the lower bolts, they are small.

Edit - Listen to Uniblurb. Compressing the shocks into the holes is a real pain. Get them ready for installation then cut the banding.

Poop
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