Man I am sooooo glad this posting has helped so many owners. Since I did mine over a year ago, there was only one "blink" on brightness. May be the dimmer switch, may not. What I did do was stand on my head and use a few nylon spot ties to further secure the wiring harness near the light control board. I suspected the heavy harness contributed to the excess pulling on the connector, thus the need to resolder joints last year. By use of additional spot ties to suspend some of the harness & connector weight off the circuit board, I have not had one problem since.
I do regret that the fog lamp switch cover plastic tabs that hold the black plastic cover on the switch's metal stem no longer secures the plastic to the switch assembly. So I have to be cautious when vacuuming or the fog light plastic switch cover will be sucked in the vac hose. Yea, need a low adhesive drop on the switch stem...hmmmm...chewing gum...ugh...but it is an adhesive of low strength.
I read this when it originally came out 2 years ago . I had the issue then . I've let it go till now . I either did this job or had to switch switches from 2 jeeps , wife's order's , . Today I did it . Maybe it killed 1 hour tops and I am not one to fix electrical things . I simply heated the joints till the solder turned liquid and that was it . Switch still works , no left over parts , time will tell . My issue was blinking dash lights . Next , the VIC
One note : It's a PITA to ave to remove so many screws to access a switch that's basically right in front of you
Sorry to bumped this old thread but i dont wanna make a new one discussing the same problem...
So i finally decided to fix my flickering dashboard light problem... I followed all the instructions here... Reheated and added a lil bit of solder in each solder pts.... Reinstalled it back in d car and tested everything... Headlights and side lights all are working properly.. So i thot it was a success.. Since its still daytime i waited till nyt to test if d dashboard dimming/flickering lights r all fixed..... Went back in d car to find out that the inside lights (which suppose to turn off automatically) stayed on... So the battery got drained... And it wont start.... I havent jumped it at d moment cuz i had to go somwhere...
So my question is... Wat did i do wrong? Did i "over solder"?
I was playing around with d switch ......the inside light would turn off if i put the headlight switch to... side lights... And if i put the headlight switch to "off"... after few seconds the inside lights would randomly turn on...
I didn't read all posts, but maybe mention of soldering skills would help. Folks post problem comes back. On old solder connections I use solder wick to remove old solder and flux when I resolder. The heat needs to be high enough for the solder to fall, ie: when hot enough it will fall to the pad and be a shiny color. If its dull in color you have a cold solder joint that will fail. Have to be careful about too much heat also, as too much will burn the trace right off the board. Learned this from my youth. jmho. When I say fall, I mean a nice little cone of solder around component lead, if you see what looks like half a ball with the pin sticking thru it you got it wrong.
Last edited by 1skrewsloose; 12-31-2012 at 06:09 PM..
Reason: added thoughts
So u think resoldering it could fix my problem or its too messed up already and im better off buying a new headlight switch panel in junkyard?
All I did was reheat the solder till it melted and left it be . I didn't see any need for adding . Depending on if you crossed a connection or not , another switch might be the way to go . Pics would help
Pulled mine out today only a few were cracked but went ahead and resoldered all of them. I did rarely have and issue with the lights flickering but mostly my issue is that off and auto (maybe fog didnt check) are the same. If i select off or auto i cant turn on the high beams but low beams stay on (HBs come on if you hold the level on high but it does not select between high and low), and i can never turn my headlights off. Anyone have another suggestion?
I was playing around with d switch ......the inside light would turn off if i put the headlight switch to... side lights... And if i put the headlight switch to "off"... after few seconds the inside lights would randomly turn on......
It sounds like you have fixed the flicking problem just fine.
It also sounds like you've got a door or cargo light that is causing the BCM not to go into a sleep mode.
When that happens the BCM will cause a high current drain (180ma) rather than the normal 30ma that occurs during the sleep cycle. The interior lights will randomly go on and off for a period of time and then shut off making you think it has gone into sleep mode, but the BCM will still be active causing the higher drain.
In some cases (not saying that's what you have) the rear hatch ajar switch (or flip glass) can go bad causing the same problem. I'd check all the door switches (worn door hinges) then let it go through a couple of sleep cycles or put an amp meter on it and make sure the draw goes down to 30.
It helped me out too, fixed my issue when activating high beams the headlights would go off... Although I jacked up the dimmer itself because I pryed to hard on it and now it is on low dim all the time. Im just glad I can use high beams again.
Just did this. took it all apart but only heated up the solder joints just enough to make 'em liquid then backed off. The dimmer is working properly now, will see later on if the Auto works again too. Ever since I got the jeep, it will randomly start flickering the headlights (strobe style!) while the switch was in auto and the lights were on. Haven't used auto in months. Thanks for the write up. VIC is next.
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited - Stone White - Stock for now.
[url]http://www.facebook.com/groups/59limited/[/url] <-- 5.9 Owner's group on FB.