Repairing headlight switch that causes dimming issues *picture heavy* - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 162 Old 02-24-2009, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
sniperdude
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Repairing headlight switch that causes dimming issues *picture heavy*

If your Jeep's lit cluster/VIC/HVAC controls are dimming by themselves, it's probably due to bad solder joints on the headlight switch. I fixed mine yesterday and took some pics and added in instructions. This was done on a 97 Limited with auto headlights and fogs.

This seems to have become quite a popular thread. Glad it's still helping people out! - Edited 10/27/2015

Big shoutout to: Cerbere for re-uploading these images after Imageshack made off with them.

Tools:
  1. Soldering Iron
  2. Roll of Rosin Core Solder
  3. Phillips screwdriver
  4. Micro screwdriver
  5. Q-tips/swabs
  6. Isopropyl Alcohol
As an addendum (10/2015), I'd recommend also picking up some flux paste as it can make the adhering of the solder to the joints a hell of a lot easier.


Enjoy.

Attached Thumbnails
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post #2 of 162 Old 02-24-2009, 10:46 AM
gatorayde
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fyi, a radio shack 15/30w soldering iron for ~$7 is your best bet for this. Cheap, and a good overall iron. 15w for the small electronics and 30w for the bigger ones (like ^).
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post #3 of 162 Old 02-24-2009, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
sniperdude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xJoshxx View Post
No clicky your welcome
Thanks, I was wondering what was up with that.
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post #4 of 162 Old 02-24-2009, 10:49 AM
gatorayde
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You need to be a member for I think 30 days and/or have 50 posts to post images. Or you can buy a membership and be able to to it regardless of how long you've been here or posts.
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post #5 of 162 Old 07-22-2009, 11:37 AM
dhammer303
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SNIPERDUDE! I just did this, and first of you instructions were spot on, AND it worked like a charm. In your other thread you spoke about "bending" where the two pieces meet. I had no idea what you were talking about until I disassembled my switch and sure enough, there was a lot of "bending". Once I resoldered the points there was no more "bending", and sure enough it works like new. This solved my problems with the Auto Headlights and the lights on my guages flickering. Thanks for the help!
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post #6 of 162 Old 07-22-2009, 12:39 PM
SnowLeopard
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If only I had had this back when I needed a new headlight switch. I just got a replacement. I'm sure this will help a lot of people though. Thanks for sharing.

Yes, it snows in Texas.

"Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads"
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post #7 of 162 Old 01-20-2010, 05:28 AM
daphne
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Thanks for this great post, Sniperdude. I'd have just thrown out my part without doing the repair that you recommend. And it worked perfectly. To your excellent advice, I would just add one item for those with soldering experience. When "resoldering," you should always reheat with new solder. This helps fluxing and also acts as a bit of a heat sink.
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post #8 of 162 Old 01-26-2010, 11:16 PM
chromedisguise
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Sorry to bump an old thread... but thanks for this. I had to subscribe so I can find this later. Thank you for posting this! I thought I was the only one with this problem.

'98 Grand Cherokee 5.9
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post #9 of 162 Old 01-27-2010, 06:51 AM
sdowney717
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1998 ZJ 
 
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if your dash lights are flickering up and down, you can clean the sliding contact switch with PB Blaster. it is a great electrical connection cleaner.
You got to spray it into the slider past the plastic dust flap and work the slider back and forth.
For some reason, my GC 1998 has numerous little electrical connection failures. Switches, sockets, wiring plugs stop working due to all i can guess high resistance corrosion. It is not visible when you look at the metal, but it is there.

for example radio connection plugs in back of radio, abs connection plug for rear wheel sensors under the dash, dash lamp sockets, headlamp switch, turn signal bulbs.
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post #10 of 162 Old 01-27-2010, 07:22 AM
baxy
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dumb question why do we need to remove board to resolder the points the pics show all the points are accessable with the white cover removed ?
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post #11 of 162 Old 01-27-2010, 11:15 AM
4Slow9erHybrid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baxy View Post
dumb question why do we need to remove board to resolder the points the pics show all the points are accessable with the white cover removed ?
No need to! I was just about to mention this. Just unscrew the white plastic cover and resolder. That's how I fixed mine.

If this alone doesn't fix it, then go ahead and take it apart. But getting the fog light switch plastic piece off is impossible on most of these without breaking something.

1997 JGC Laredo 4.0 4x4 99900mi * 0W30 German Castrol since 75k * 225/75/R15 Firestone Destination AT on Ravine rims * winter 235/75/R15 Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V1 * UC suspension * Monroe Reflex Monotube shocks * factory skids * KOR steering brace * rear Addco SB * Magnaflow cat and cat back system * complete 5.9 interior
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post #12 of 162 Old 02-14-2010, 08:34 PM
_AdriaN_
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Erwin
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Tried this out today...

I just re-soldered up the back of the board, after you remove the white plastic and it fixed my problem.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH

96 ZJ 4.0
04 TJ 4.0
87 Rx7 TII
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post #13 of 162 Old 09-29-2010, 07:09 PM
Bigwidge
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Just did mine! All the instructions were great, I had some trouble getting the panel out, but that was just me. Anyway, its all fixed now, thanks for the pictures!

The Silver Bullet- 96 ZJ w/ 31" BFG's on Pro-Comp Rock Crawler wheels, 4 KC Daylighters on roof (2 driving, 2 long range), Custom Front Tube Bumper (Made by JFCIII), 3.5" RE Kit with all of the goodies. JKS Trackbar, Bilstein Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, Control Arms
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post #14 of 162 Old 09-29-2010, 07:27 PM
timmay5309
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I wish I would have seen this thread before replacing the switch. Great write up!
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post #15 of 162 Old 11-07-2010, 01:56 PM
danvdd
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Location: Ontario Can
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Just fixed mine. It took over 6 months to get to it but it went off without a hitch.
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