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Unread 07-27-2011, 04:50 PM   #91
coralman
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There is if I'm not mistaken a rubber air damn on the end of the evaporator, Which is what you may be feeling that is rubbery.

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Unread 07-28-2011, 02:20 AM   #92
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Quote:
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There is if I'm not mistaken a rubber air damn on the end of the evaporator, Which is what you may be feeling that is rubbery.
True that - but I was feeling the rubbery stuff on the other end - towards the firewall, where the drain pipe ends and should be open.
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Unread 07-28-2011, 07:37 PM   #93
Timbone1343
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I tried doing this fix but my drain wasn't clogged.
Its still leaking into the cab though.
I checked for cracks and there wasnt any visible and I tried putting water in with a cooking syringe and there was no water leaking from it but it did drain out through the frame..


I'm thinking I need to cut the wheel well and attach the extra hose but I'm looking for a second oppinion.. So what do you guys think?


Also please forgive my ignorance but what is this stuff on my undercarriage?
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Unread 07-28-2011, 08:03 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Timbone1343 View Post
So what do you guys think? Also please forgive my ignorance but what is this stuff on my undercarriage?
The common cause is a rotten seal between the heater box and the firewall. Water runs back and soaks the now porous seal and when it saturates, it runs inside the cab. The fender well cut is a lot faster fix than pulling the heater box. If you go this route, take note of the measurements in my earlier post on this thread.

The stuff on under carriage is undercoating.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 04:18 AM   #95
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I was thinking one thing here... What if I could take a 3-4" piece of transparend plastic tubing, the kind used for aquariums and similar (not stiff but flexible) - that tube is always flexed because it is stored in circles, right? So, I take some of that tube, seeing that it has a snug fit to the drain pipe (which I could check by inserting the tube from the inside through the hole we all have drilled for unblocking the drain), and when I find a tube that barely goes in - meaning it's very snug - I cut said 3-4" and push it in the existing drain pipe. Not flush with the hole drilled for unblocking but a bit further - like an inch or two further. That way, the said plastic tube would exit the original drain pipe and would get bent downwardss (because it was inserted that way), and since it's a snug fit, all the drain water would go through it.

If anything would go bad, I would use something (a phillips screwdriver) to push the plastic pipe completely through the drain pipe and into the frame. That way, if anything gets too blocked to be cleaned, I could just push it out and be done with it. On the other hand, I'd have a down-bent piece of pipe that would prevent drained water to return and leak inside the cab.

How does that sound? No drilling, just a little game of finding the right dia od plastic tube to insert. What's the verdict here, the public opinion?
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Unread 07-29-2011, 05:32 AM   #96
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You would also be cutting down on the pipe ID which might cause problems.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 05:36 AM   #97
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I can see that a s potential problem, but on the other side, I don't belive the flow could EVER get so strong it could create a problem. I mean, we get close to 100% humidity here, and watching my home AC dripping water, the maximum I saw it do was one drop from the pipe per second. And I doubt even 3 drops per second could be a problem.

Still, good point, worth checking.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 08:28 AM   #98
Timbone1343
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Thanks ZeeJay, Wasn't sure what that stuff was good or bad.. Just kinda looked funky..

Let me know if you find a specific hose that fits I'm going to work on finding some like this myself after work today. I'll let you know if I find one.

EDIT
Also what if you wrap the end of the hose that will be in the drain with thread sealing tape? Should give it a bit of a more snug fit right?

Does anyone know the inner diameter or the drain?
Thanks!
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Unread 07-29-2011, 05:23 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbone1343 View Post
Does anyone know the inner diameter or the drain?
I fixed mine by cutting the wheel well. The OD is a little less than 5/8. A clamp is in order on a piece of heater hose.

If you try inserting a tube though the inside, let us know how it works out. I thought about it but decided against it because no one could verify that it will work. To choke down the ID with an additional tube would definitely make it easier to get clogged.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 09:51 PM   #100
Timbone1343
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I tried to use a smaller hose on the inside of the drain instead, I got ever diameter lowes had close to what I thought it would be and none were snug..
I used some duct tape and teflon to try to make it snug and it was.. untill it got INTO the drain pipe.. I think it must get larger inside of the pipe because as soon as it passed the edge it was very loose.. So I pushed it through and I am now cutting the fender wall..

So no luck for me.. Maybe bluedevil will have better luck..

And yeah.. clogs would be more common with the smaller inner diameter..



EDIT

Here's the VERY bad seal.. I'm going to caulk it just to be safe before i put the hose on.


Here's the cut I made.


And another angle.


Hope this helps everyone else with this issue!

Thanks to everyone!!!
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Unread 08-01-2011, 01:51 AM   #101
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As some already said, the idea I had was good but not good
In essence, it would be easier to insert a tube within tube, but it does narrow it down so clogging would be more commeon, plus when you try to unclog it you just push the tube out, so you need to insert another one.

What remains to do is the cut in the fender well, this inserting thing is just not good :/
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Unread 08-05-2011, 10:41 AM   #102
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i've got a curious question about the rate at which the A/C should be draining i know it varries from vehicle to vehicle but if i'd like to find out if its a pouring or just a modest steady drip like what i have...otherwise i need to go back in and clean more out
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Unread 08-06-2011, 06:59 AM   #103
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A steady drip sounds about right
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Unread 08-08-2011, 03:53 PM   #104
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Last week, I had my 97 ZJ in for a water pump. The place I use has one guy who works on all the Jeeps that come in, so I assume he knows his stuff.

I showed him the wet floor. He knew right where to go. He drilled the hole and blew it out, and it drained nicely out the bottom of the frame...for 2 days, and went right back to leaking inside.

I just spent an hour trying to figure it out. He had only drilled about a 1/8" hole, so I made it a little bigger and went in with a thin wire hanger. I was able to go up unrestricted, and also straight out the end of the tube and into the space behind the fender well. I also got under the car and ran the hanger up through the hole in the bottom. I was able to get a good 2 feet of hanger up in there, and it came out wet. Then I let it run with the AC on and after about 10 minutes, water was coming in thru the hole.

The dude at the shop never sealed the hole, so I found a short flange bolt and stuck it in there and RTV'd it good around the washer. Hopefully that's why it was still leaking into the cab. If not, I guess I have to start cutting.
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Unread 08-09-2011, 08:16 AM   #105
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Well if he never sealed the hole, then it's bound to drain inside. The place you drill that hole is exacly where the drain pipe makes a 90* turn: from vertical it goes to horizontal, and you dril exactly in the "elbow" and if you don't seal the hole then water will certainly go in the cab rather than to the front.

Of course, don't plug it too deeply or you will block the drain tube.
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