Repairing a Clogged AC Drain - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 01:47 PM
megusta
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if you will ram straight in that hole you can break off that little tube and then water will leak inside, so be careful. How deep can you get if you push forward? (straight ahead from the hole)

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post #77 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 01:50 PM
BlueDevil
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2 inches straight ahead.

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post #78 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 01:56 PM
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2 inches and then you hit blockage?
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post #79 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 01:57 PM
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Yup. Feels like i hit a rubber hose wall or something

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post #80 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 02:04 PM
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I would try to push a little bit with something hard (thicker wire or thin and long screwdriver), but first make sure that you go straight forward inside that tube.
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post #81 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 02:11 PM
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Ok, how much more? How far should I enter?

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post #82 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 02:15 PM
megusta
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can't tell exactly, if there is approximately 2-2.5 inches from hole till end of that tube, 3 inches would be enough.
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post #83 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 02:25 PM
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Good. I will try it tomorrow then, since it's dark now. Will take a thin long screwdriver, will set a limiter on it so it can go only 3" (7.5 cm) inside that tube, and will apply force until it goes through.

I also tried gilling my mouth with water, then inserting a straw in that hole (those 2" that it goes in) and blowing the water it: it all webt back through the hole I was blowing it in, so I guess the drain actually IS clogged on the far end.

Gonna try it tomorrow when I get back from work. 3" going in.

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post #84 of 162 Old 07-26-2011, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueDevil View Post
Can somebidy confirm please? I don't want to break something
If you hit a solid surface, you're not in the right place. Anything that clogs the drain should be pliable and easily moved with a wire. I drilled a 3/8 hole in mine so I could see in there. I could clearly see the drain tube opening with a bright light. If you drill in the middle of the circle, the tube opening is visible.


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post #85 of 162 Old 07-27-2011, 01:13 AM
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I did drill right in the center of the circle - just like in OP's photos. As soon as the drill passed through, I stopped drilling, and the water begun pouring out. With a wire I can go upwards really high, I pushed in about 10-15" and found nothing. Forwards, towards the firewall, I am pretty sure I go into the drain pipe beause if i put the wire a bit to the side when inserting it (instead of the dead center of the hole) it goes in like 1/4" and hits the firm end. But when I put it to dead center it goes in about 2" and then stops. And it stops to something that is not hard (as a plastic wall would be) but feels kinda rubbery (same feeling you get trying to puncture a garden hose with a screwdriver, it's kinda elastic-rubbery feeling). I didn't want to push hard, i webt very easy on the wire, but from what I've read around, there should be nothing at the end of that drain pipe. Nothing, just the pipe and the wire would have to go through and into the frame rail. So I'm gonna give it a bigger push today to see if I can unclog it.

There's a pic a few threads up of the drain pipe when the HVAC is out of the Jeep, and there you can see that's just a plain straight pipe piece that goes through the firewall, so the wire must get through and into the frame rail. The wire is thinner than the hole, of course. Also, IMO, a drill bit should pass theough too, only needs to be careful to drill through the pipe and not puncture it. But, gonna see ehat happens...

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post #86 of 162 Old 07-27-2011, 07:59 AM
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I'm having this issue with my Jeep. I tried to clear the clog last week with the wire hanger but i pressed it through a few times and felt no resistance so I think I am having the issue linked to in post #46 I was thinking, would it be easier to take the drain assembly out, attach the extra hose and re-install it? I don't feel comfortable cutting the wheel well.
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post #87 of 162 Old 07-27-2011, 12:20 PM
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I solved mine. Hopefully, couldn't try it cos it's as cold as if it was autumn. Bloody weather.
Anyhoo, I gotta thank the PO for being such an idiot. You know how all the instructions for this drilling thing start with "pull back the carpet"? Well, I never had to because it was UNDER the drain. Yep, that's right. When PO was removing the dash, for some reason or the other, he let the carpet cover the hole in firewall so that the drain was plugged with the carpet. Like pushing your finger through your shirt. That was the "rubbery" thing I felt when pushing through yesterday. So I put the screwdriver in, push, and decide to remove the carpet afterall to see how's under it. Only it wouldn't move. But as I was pulling I felt the drain plug move and also the screwdriver that was in it. Then it all came clear to me. I pushed the screwdriver through and that was it. I tried to enlarge that hole as best as I could since I can't pull the carpet out, and finally I cut a piece off of the straw (plastic one for the juice and cocktails and stuff) and I inserted it in. I pushed it so it wouldn't tap the drain coming from up but still would pass through the firewall. Taped the hole with duct tape.
So when the weather permits I will see if the condensate runs where it should. And if the straw piece is no good, I can always push it out with the screwdriver.

I hope this helps somebody, although I seriously doubt there are more brilliant PO's like this around. Usually the natural selection takes care of that

Thanx y'all for ideas & help!!!

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post #88 of 162 Old 07-27-2011, 12:52 PM
megusta
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lol, grats with solving that problem!
btw, what does PO mean?
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post #89 of 162 Old 07-27-2011, 01:53 PM
BlueDevil
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PO = previous owner


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post #90 of 162 Old 07-27-2011, 03:08 PM
megusta
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oh, now i get it
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