Repairing a Clogged AC Drain - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Repairing a Clogged AC Drain

FS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitFlowmaster's Force II Axle-back exhaust system for the 201FS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great value

Reply
Unread 01-04-2008, 05:43 PM   #16
MAUSS
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 786
Quote:
My question is this -- is there NO way to access the drain tube on the engine side of the firewall?
In a word, NO.

__________________
'93 Limited (sold), '96 Laredo
MAUSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-04-2008, 05:47 PM   #17
swataz
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Long Island
Posts: 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAUSS
In a word, NO.
Great..

Yet the condensation run-off is where most cars and trucks would be seen underneath the vehicle?

I know older Jeeps had the drainage go into the frame, but the WJs aren't the same design are they?

BTW I have a 1999 JGC
swataz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-04-2008, 06:31 PM   #18
FPKites
ZJjazzyJim
 
FPKites's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 13,489
The repair documented here is specifically for ZJs - no clue if dubs have the same design flaw.
__________________
Jim Karlin
"How the heck do you get there?"
"Duh! Big RED Jeep!!!"
Best customer service in the states:

Best mod you'll ever do on ANY vehicle!!!!

FPKites is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-05-2008, 06:16 AM   #19
Turbonut
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,828
Quote:
Originally Posted by swataz
I have the same problem with no AC drainage, and this is all great info and I will attempt it soon.

My question is this -- is there NO way to access the drain tube on the engine side of the firewall?
This will cover the question:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonut
You need to cut a 2" x 3" access hole behind the right front wheel.
Turbonut is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2008, 07:01 PM   #20
novaken
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonut
This will cover the question:




Do You have any Photos?
novaken is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2008, 10:06 PM   #21
swataz
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Long Island
Posts: 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by novaken
Do You have any Photos?
Yeah for a klutz like me, this would be exceptionally helpful!!
swataz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2008, 04:40 AM   #22
Turbonut
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,828
Quote:
Originally Posted by swataz
Yeah for a klutz like me, this would be exceptionally helpful!!
No, sorry, I sold the Jeep 3 years ago. It didn't take very long at all, and the best part is that the Jeep never again had water on the floor.
How I tested mine. I had the Jeep with the nose slightly uphill, and pumped water into the HVAC box through a hole that was drilled into the assembly on the passenger side maybe 3" up. Pulled carpet back and used blue paper towels, as they are easier to see water penetration. Pumped the water into the assembly, then watched it run onto the towels, seal was shot. If the Jeep was downhill, no water. Plugged the hole and proceeded with the following.

If you have the Jeep on a level surface run a level line from the drain to the flat upright panel behind the right front wheel. If I remember correctly, the ABS and brake lines run down the right side, so between the lines and rear of the panel is where I cut the access hole. You can drill a 1/2" or 3/4" inspection hole, then open it up from there. If you don't have air tools available, just drill a series of holes to make a rectangle, then use a chisel to finish it off. When finished, cover with sheet metal and then undercoat.

Must keep in mind that in the future, if the HVAC box needs to be pulled, anything that might inhibit the tube from sliding through the firewall will need to be removed first.
Turbonut is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2008, 07:36 PM   #23
novaken
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 30
Anyone know if rain water comes in if the heater seal goes bad?. Mine leaks on the passenger side when it rains. I took it to the car wash today and sprayed it good with the wand. It is leaking somewhere in the rf corner. It looks above the heater where the water comes in, but I cant see exactly where. Windshield maybe? I ran it through the automatic wash first, and no water. I have ran the AC and no water.
novaken is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2008, 08:24 PM   #24
FPKites
ZJjazzyJim
 
FPKites's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 13,489
Sounds like you've got either a leak at the windshield seal or the door seal. Door would be my bet. Take a look at the weatherstripping around the door, and you may just find a spot or 2 of carnage.
__________________
Jim Karlin
"How the heck do you get there?"
"Duh! Big RED Jeep!!!"
Best customer service in the states:

Best mod you'll ever do on ANY vehicle!!!!

FPKites is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-10-2008, 08:37 PM   #25
Turbonut
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,828
Quote:
Originally Posted by novaken
Anyone know if rain water comes in if the heater seal goes bad?. Mine leaks on the passenger side when it rains. I took it to the car wash today and sprayed it good with the wand. It is leaking somewhere in the rf corner. It looks above the heater where the water comes in, but I cant see exactly where. Windshield maybe? I ran it through the automatic wash first, and no water. I have ran the AC and no water.
Take a look at the body seal at the right side top. You'll see a strip of caulking over the body. That gets hard and deteriorates so water will run in behind the kick panel.

Remove the right kick panel and lay blue paper towels all around and run a hose over the area for the test. I had both sides go bad on teh old '93. Cleaned the old off and applied new, and no more leaks.
Turbonut is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-12-2008, 03:34 AM   #26
novaken
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by FPKites
Sounds like you've got either a leak at the windshield seal or the door seal. Door would be my bet. Take a look at the weatherstripping around the door, and you may just find a spot or 2 of carnage.
There was a very small leak at the door seal. I put a new Mopar door seal on and that stopped the leaking there. Still got the leak at the cowl area that I can't seem to pinpoint. I made an appointment at the windshield shop to have them take a look at it. Hopefully they can fix it for me. Keeping my fingers crossed that it isn't the seal for the heater. If that is the case I am going to drill a hole in the floor where the water puddles and let it drain to the outside.
novaken is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-12-2008, 07:52 PM   #27
swataz
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Long Island
Posts: 352
Quote:
Originally Posted by FPKites
The repair documented here is specifically for ZJs - no clue if dubs have the same design flaw.
For the record, it doesn't seem that is the case. The drain is clearly visible on the engine side of the firewall.

In my case, it wasn't blocked. I blew air straight up through the damn thing and from all appearances it was not clogged. I was told it could be an air pocket in the heater core or even the coolant moving too fast through the system.

Either way it would appear it is annoying, not likely to cause interior damage.

It is damn annoying though!
swataz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-14-2008, 05:47 PM   #28
novaken
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonut
Take a look at the body seal at the right side top. You'll see a strip of caulking over the body. That gets hard and deteriorates so water will run in behind the kick panel.

Remove the right kick panel and lay blue paper towels all around and run a hose over the area for the test. I had both sides go bad on teh old '93. Cleaned the old off and applied new, and no more leaks.
Boy, you were right on the mark with this information. I took my Jeep to the glass shop and that is what he said was wrong. He resealed those seams and so far so good. Hope it stays that way.
novaken is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-20-2008, 05:35 PM   #29
farmerj
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 59
Dead thread resurrection.

Went in and drilled the little ol' hole.
Roto-rooted it out with a wire coat hanger.
Blew it out with the air nozzle.
went up the frame rail that's all rotted out with the same coat hanger bent into a hook and drug out all the rust.

Big ol' A/C pee spot on the concrete now.
farmerj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-13-2008, 09:17 PM   #30
thingtwo235
Registered User
1987 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 59
when you guys say wet carpet, do mean a little wet or like puddle wet?
__________________
96 grand cherokee 5.2.
White Jeep Club Member #221


Quote:
My tour guide in Italy
The mafia doesn't always follow the rules.
thingtwo235 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.