I sure wouldn't try to get a sawzall into the CA bracket, but I don't deal with real rust. I can't imagine one of those bolts not being able to come out if you can get the nut off though . . .
Especially LCA bolts frequently completely seize into the bushing sleeves on areas where road salt is used extensively. On a Jeep that hasn't seen OEM suspension parts pulled out since it left the factory, especially CA and trackbar bolts can be seized so bad into the bushings that the only option is to cut them.
I always use a ton of marine-grade salt-water proof grease when installing bolts into control arms and track bars - yet I just recently had one bolt seize into the rear axleside UCA bushing sleeve being there only for four years
I've read a bit about just cutting the bushing with a sawzall and such but just not sure where to cut or if I should angle grind through the old control arm and have each side spinning freely. Any help would be appreciated
Use either a 4.5" or 8" angle grinder, and cut the bolts from both sides of the bushings. 4.5" with a thin cut-off wheel (for stainless steel) should reach about halfway through the bolt, then spin it a little and cut the rest.
It's more precise with the 4.5" grinder so you won't cut as easily into the brackets.
You can use a sawzall as well, but it's about a gazillion times slower and more work IMHO. It takes about 20 seconds to cut one bolt on both sides of the bushing
Keep the cut-off disc as close to the CA/ bushing as possible, avoid cutting into the bracket.
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***