removing lower control arms - JeepForum.com

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 8 Old 01-03-2017, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
cblake0619
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 2
removing lower control arms

So my buddy and I are certified garage mechanics at this point and have replaced a ridiculous amount of stuff on my 97 Laredo v8.

The newest fix is the control arm bushings. Naturally bushings are the worst thing to remove and repack so I bought brand new control arms to pop in there, what's holding us back is the bolt is most likely rusted to the bushing and turning is getting us nowhere. I've read a bit about just cutting the bushing with a sawzall and such but just not sure where to cut or if I should angle grind through the old control arm and have each side spinning freely. Any help would be appreciated

cblake0619 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old 01-03-2017, 04:35 PM
biffgnar
Moderator
 
biffgnar's Avatar
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 22,217
Moved to ZJ Tech.

No experience with a ZJ, but with a TJ or an XJ I'd try to get the sawzall between the inside of the bracket and the bushing so I was cutting the bolt on either/both side(s) of the bushing.

Romney in 2020!
biffgnar is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old 01-03-2017, 04:46 PM
vpt28777
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 30
**************Help***********
I have a Jeep Liberty sport 3.7L 4x4

The code said today is:

P0352

- ignition coil B , primary / secondary
- circuit malfunction

****Help please*****

I have a picture and video but don't let me upload
vpt28777 is offline  
 
post #4 of 8 Old 01-03-2017, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
cblake0619
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 2
That's what I was assuming. Any specific dimensions for the bolt to replace and any specific areas for jack stands or will just the frame work?
cblake0619 is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 01-03-2017, 09:29 PM
kg6mov
Hears the voices
 
kg6mov's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 13,050
@biffgnar the front end of a ZJ is identical to its TJ/XJ brethren.

You want jack stands near the LCA frame side brackets, the "frame" isn't and will bend if you put pressure in the wrong place. I sure wouldn't try to get a sawzall into the CA bracket, but I don't deal with real rust. I can't imagine one of those bolts not being able to come out if you can get the nut off though . . .


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 01-03-2017, 09:31 PM
biffgnar
Moderator
 
biffgnar's Avatar
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 22,217
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
@biffgnar the front end of a ZJ is identical to its TJ/XJ brethren.

You want jack stands near the LCA frame side brackets, the "frame" isn't and will bend if you put pressure in the wrong place. I sure wouldn't try to get a sawzall into the CA bracket, but I don't deal with real rust. I can't imagine one of those bolts not being able to come out if you can get the nut off though . . .
Thanks.

For what it's worth, I have seen bolts seized to the sleeve in the bushing before. It can happen.

Romney in 2020!
biffgnar is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old 01-04-2017, 02:15 AM
Timo_90xj
Web Wheeler
 
Timo_90xj's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 8,390
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
I sure wouldn't try to get a sawzall into the CA bracket, but I don't deal with real rust. I can't imagine one of those bolts not being able to come out if you can get the nut off though . . .
Especially LCA bolts frequently completely seize into the bushing sleeves on areas where road salt is used extensively. On a Jeep that hasn't seen OEM suspension parts pulled out since it left the factory, especially CA and trackbar bolts can be seized so bad into the bushings that the only option is to cut them.

I always use a ton of marine-grade salt-water proof grease when installing bolts into control arms and track bars - yet I just recently had one bolt seize into the rear axleside UCA bushing sleeve being there only for four years


Quote:
Originally Posted by cblake0619 View Post
I've read a bit about just cutting the bushing with a sawzall and such but just not sure where to cut or if I should angle grind through the old control arm and have each side spinning freely. Any help would be appreciated
Use either a 4.5" or 8" angle grinder, and cut the bolts from both sides of the bushings. 4.5" with a thin cut-off wheel (for stainless steel) should reach about halfway through the bolt, then spin it a little and cut the rest.
It's more precise with the 4.5" grinder so you won't cut as easily into the brackets.
You can use a sawzall as well, but it's about a gazillion times slower and more work IMHO. It takes about 20 seconds to cut one bolt on both sides of the bushing
Keep the cut-off disc as close to the CA/ bushing as possible, avoid cutting into the bracket.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
Timo_90xj is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 01-04-2017, 10:18 PM
CatSplat
Registered User
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,439
The #1 best way to cut CA bolts (IMO) is a Sawzall with a Freud Steel Demon carbide-tipped blade. They are a bit pricier than regular metal blades, but they cut through suspension bolts like butter, it's incredible. I was working on a Nissan UCA with seized bolts a couple months back and that blade did in 10 seconds what my Lenox metal blades couldn't achieve in a half hour of sawing.

1994 5.9L ZJ, retrofitted UC package, NP242 swap, 17" JK Moabs with 32" BFG MT KM's.
The Jeep of Theseus
CatSplat is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome