Removing Door Panels for speakers - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 47 Old 01-04-2014, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
Blk92XJGuy
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Removing Door Panels for speakers

So I'm going to be replacing my stock speakers with aftermarket ones and I was wondering how the process is. I found a thread on NAGCA but it looks like the pics expired. I have to route 12 ga speaker wire too, so how will that work? Is easy to fish them through? Then I assume I just run it along the trim where the amp wire is, right?


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post #2 of 47 Old 01-04-2014, 09:48 AM
gearheadnick
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When I rewired my Jeep's speaker wires, I ran the wires wherever I wanted as long as it was hidden. I ran the driver's side wires above the instrument cluster behind the trim, and the passenger side behind the glove box. After that, both sides run behind the trim along the carpet edges. The worst part is fishing the wires through the door wire boots. Once you figure it out on the 1st door, it's simple enough for the other 3 doors.
The rule of thumb for speaker wires (although it may be a myth) is to keep the amp wires separate from the speaker wires. Supposedly the amp wire will transmit noise into the speaker wire if they're run side by side.
If the speakers you bought aren't stock replacement, or you don't have the adapter rings, you'll be drilling new mounting holes. The easiest way of mounting them is to get a sheetmetal nut kit. Harbor freight sells those kits, and I have it and have used it, but it's cheap. If you can find a better quality kit, get it. I've destroyed about half the kit just because it's poor quality, but it'll get the job done eventually.

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post #3 of 47 Old 01-04-2014, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
Blk92XJGuy
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Hmm ok. Good to know! I believe my speakers came with adapters. I'll double check though.

Cheers!

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98 5.9 -Monstaliner bed liner exterior - 3'' Kolak exhuast - SCT Tuner - OEM rubber cup holder insert - 52mm Holley TB - Complete audio upgrade
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post #4 of 47 Old 01-05-2014, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
Blk92XJGuy
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Will I need new door clips or should I be fine?

92 XJ - 7''/SeriousOffroad long arms/Bilstein 5100/Aussie/33x12.50 15x8 Kumho KL71s/plus more
98 5.9 -Monstaliner bed liner exterior - 3'' Kolak exhuast - SCT Tuner - OEM rubber cup holder insert - 52mm Holley TB - Complete audio upgrade
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post #5 of 47 Old 01-05-2014, 04:56 PM
zwoobah
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You will probably break a few door clips but the remaining ones will do the job fine. Be as gentle as possible removing them.
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post #6 of 47 Old 01-05-2014, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
Blk92XJGuy
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Right on. Any tips or just be gentle? First time ever actually removing a door panel. lol

92 XJ - 7''/SeriousOffroad long arms/Bilstein 5100/Aussie/33x12.50 15x8 Kumho KL71s/plus more
98 5.9 -Monstaliner bed liner exterior - 3'' Kolak exhuast - SCT Tuner - OEM rubber cup holder insert - 52mm Holley TB - Complete audio upgrade
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post #7 of 47 Old 01-06-2014, 03:39 AM
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Try not to side load the clips, that what breaks them, pull directly away from the door. A nice firm pull to get each one.

But you're still gonna break a few. I got a box of clips for christmas years ago that I've been slowly going through. Not like they're expensive: http://www.amazon.com/Panel-Retainer.../dp/B0040CRTK8

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post #8 of 47 Old 01-06-2014, 03:45 AM
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Speaking of Harbor Freight, there's a kit you can buy there that looks like little plastic pry bars. It's made for removing door panels and other trim without breaking clips or scratching stuff up. I used mine yesterday to remove one of my rear door panels to replace the power lock mechanism. Made the removal super easy and didn't damage any clips.
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post #9 of 47 Old 01-06-2014, 08:25 PM
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What the hell kind of system are you running that would require 12ga speaker wires????

12ga wire can handle 41 amps. 41A x 12V = 492W per channel! Your amp will be pulling almost twice what your alternator can put out.

50W per channel only requires 24ga wire. The stock wires I do believe are 18ga, which means they can handle 192W per channel. Unless the stock wires are physically broken, why not use them?

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post #10 of 47 Old 01-07-2014, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_D View Post
What the hell kind of system are you running that would require 12ga speaker wires????

12ga wire can handle 41 amps. 41A x 12V = 492W per channel! Your amp will be pulling almost twice what your alternator can put out.

50W per channel only requires 24ga wire. The stock wires I do believe are 18ga, which means they can handle 192W per channel. Unless the stock wires are physically broken, why not use them?
Because there's some myth about RF interference with factory speaker wiring, so people get the fancy "shielded" expensive "speaker wire". In actuality, unless you're an insane audiophile, you'll never notice RF induction. And if you're that into speakers, you're not the sort who'd be asking how to run speaker wires.

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post #11 of 47 Old 01-07-2014, 04:55 AM
kg6mov
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I got 100W of RF on every band I can fit antennas for and I ain't never had a problem with the factory wiring and rf induction. Theres no way anything that a normal person would drive near is going to have the strength to do anything interesting.

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post #12 of 47 Old 01-07-2014, 10:00 AM
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Never understood the need for super overrated wiring in vehicles. See it all the time with tiny Honda's and what not where the alt only puts out around 75 amps and they are worried about running bigger than 0 gauge wire for an amp. Pure marketing. If you're worried about 12 gauge wire, what wire size is coming out of your HU? Probably 16-18 at most, the power cable is barely 14, maybe 12 on a good one.

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post #13 of 47 Old 01-07-2014, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glasssplinter View Post
Never understood the need for super overrated wiring in vehicles. See it all the time with tiny Honda's and what not where the alt only puts out around 75 amps and they are worried about running bigger than 0 gauge wire for an amp. Pure marketing. If you're worried about 12 gauge wire, what wire size is coming out of your HU? Probably 16-18 at most, the power cable is barely 14, maybe 12 on a good one.
Holy hell my 1000w sub is fed with 10g wires, why would you need anything bigger than 16g for satellite speakers?

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post #14 of 47 Old 01-07-2014, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
Blk92XJGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_D View Post
What the hell kind of system are you running that would require 12ga speaker wires????

12ga wire can handle 41 amps. 41A x 12V = 492W per channel! Your amp will be pulling almost twice what your alternator can put out.

50W per channel only requires 24ga wire. The stock wires I do believe are 18ga, which means they can handle 192W per channel. Unless the stock wires are physically broken, why not use them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post
Because there's some myth about RF interference with factory speaker wiring, so people get the fancy "shielded" expensive "speaker wire". In actuality, unless you're an insane audiophile, you'll never notice RF induction. And if you're that into speakers, you're not the sort who'd be asking how to run speaker wires.


I was actually mistaken. It's 16ga wire. And it's not a huge setup, it's just a quality one. At least it is to me, since this is the first time I'm actually investing this much into the audio.

Still think the stock wiring would be fine? As long as there's no noticeable quality drop or static, I'll use them. Would save me time.. Does the stock wire go to a harness that fits the stock amp?



92 XJ - 7''/SeriousOffroad long arms/Bilstein 5100/Aussie/33x12.50 15x8 Kumho KL71s/plus more
98 5.9 -Monstaliner bed liner exterior - 3'' Kolak exhuast - SCT Tuner - OEM rubber cup holder insert - 52mm Holley TB - Complete audio upgrade
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post #15 of 47 Old 01-07-2014, 01:09 PM
xcaliber81
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My jeep has a connector in the door harness between the body and door. How would you run wires through that? Ill be in kind of the same boat soon trying to figure out how to hook up my extra speakers in the sound bar I got which will be hook them to the rear speakers and risk a power loss run an amp just for the soundbar speakers or amp them all.
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