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Unread 07-03-2006, 12:27 AM   #1
rhkalandros
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Marin County, CA
Posts: 12
Removing clutch/pulley from A/C compressor

Anyone know how to do this? I need to replace the bearing in the clutch/pulley assembly and I don't know how to remove it from the compressor. I have a 98 5.9 litre.

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Unread 07-03-2006, 05:06 AM   #2
zjay
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vermont
Posts: 284
From manual:


COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement. The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle.

REMOVAL
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Cooling System for the procedures.
Remove the bolt that secures the compressor clutch to the compressor shaft Compressor Shaft Bolt A band-type oil filter wrench may be used to secure the clutch during bolt removal
Tap the clutch plate with a plastic mallet to release it from the splines on the compressor shaft. Remove the clutch plate and shim(s) from the compressor shaft Clutch Plate and Shim
CAUTION: Do not pry between the clutch plate assembly and the pulley to remove it from the compressor shaft. Prying may damage the clutch plate assembly.

Remove the external snap ring that secures the compressor clutch pulley to the nose of the compressor front housing with snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574) and slide the pulley assembly off of the compressor Pulley Snap Ring Remove/Install
Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front housing.
Remove the external snap ring that secures the compressor clutch coil to the nose of the compressor front housing with snap ring pliers and slide the coil assembly off of the compressor Clutch Coil Snap Ring Remove/Install
INSPECTION
Examine the friction surfaces of the clutch pulley and the clutch plate for wear. The pulley and plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring.

If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the compressor for refrigerant oil. Remove the felt wick from around the shaft inside the nose of the compressor front housing. If the felt is saturated with refrigerant oil, the compressor shaft seal is leaking and the compressor must be replaced.

Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the bearing, if required.

INSTALLATION
Align the dowel pin on the back of the clutch field coil with the hole in the compressor front housing and press the field coil into place over the nose of the compressor.
Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retaining clip on the compressor front housing and tighten the retaining screw.
Install the clutch field coil and snap ring with snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574) The bevel side of the snap ring must be facing outward. Also, both eyelets of the snap ring must be to the right or left of the pin on the compressor. Press in on the snap ring to be certain that it is properly seated in the groove
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front housing of the compressor.

Install the pulley assembly onto the compressor. If necessary, place a block of wood on the friction surface and tap gently with a hammer Pulley Assembly Install
CAUTION: Do not mar the pulley friction surface.

Install the pulley assembly retaining snap ring (bevel side outward) with snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574) Press in on the snap ring to be certain that it is properly seated in the groove
If the original clutch plate assembly and pulley assembly are to be reused, the old shim(s) can be used. If not, place a stack of shim(s) equal to the old shim(s) on the shaft against the shoulder.
Install the clutch plate assembly onto the shaft.
With the clutch plate assembly tight against the shim(s), measure the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley face with feeler gauges. The air gap should be between 0.35 to 0.65 millimeter (0.014 to 0.026 inch) If the proper air gap is not obtained, add or subtract shims as needed until the desired air gap is obtained.
Install the compressor shaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 13 Nm (115 in. lbs.)
NOTE: The shims may compress after tightening the shaft bolt. Check the air gap in four or more places to verify the air gap is still correct. Spin the pulley before performing a final check of the air gap.

Reverse the remaining removal procedures to complete the installation.
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed, cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty times (five seconds on, then five seconds off) During this procedure, set the heater-A/C control in the Recirculation Mode, the A/C button in the on position, the blower motor switch in the highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2000 rpm. This procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch torque capability.
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Unread 07-03-2006, 09:39 AM   #3
rhkalandros
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Location: Marin County, CA
Posts: 12
Thanks, I pulled the assembly without a problem.
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Unread 07-24-2006, 09:52 PM   #4
helga
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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Similar problem here...I took the belt off tonight and the a/c pulley would turn ok, but if I turned the clutch by hand, it was stiff, felt gritty and didn't turn freely. Does this mean it's the compressor and not the clutch? also it only makes the noise when the a/c is on.

95 Grand Cherokee with the inline 6 btw


I did a search btw and got a lot of useful stuff, so thanks already.

Last edited by helga; 07-24-2006 at 10:12 PM..
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Unread 07-26-2010, 05:04 PM   #5
KarenMasonb
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Raleigh, nc
Posts: 8
a/c clutch nut removal..help!

Can anyone tell me how to get that stupid nut off...I have a spanner wrench...it's not that part that's moving it's the smaller plate (that's surrounding the hex nut) within the bigger plate that is turning and I can't get the nut itself off. Don't have air wrench, just hand. I'm trying to replace the clutch bearing. They make it look so easy on youtube...the compressor is still seated, i'm working around stuff...so I'll ask a stupid question just in case..the nut should be loosen counterclockwise I assume...didn't know if working on it still in place was making me see it upside down or something and I should be turning the other way. Please don't laugh at me...I'm trying!
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Unread 02-03-2011, 07:58 PM   #6
charlesshoults
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sidney, NE
Posts: 172
Old compressor

I got an old compressor from a salvage yard a couple years ago but it's been sitting on a shelf ever since. I pulled the pulleys off today and am not so enthusiastic about what I found. Maybe this will be helpful to someone. I didn't have a strap-type oil filter tool, but I did have a large pipe wrench. It wasn't big enough to get around the diameter of the pulley, so I put it over the lip and tightened it down as far as I could by hand, and while applying light pressure, was able to get the center bolt loose.



Unfortunately, the underside has a fair bit of rust on it. The thing does look basically like a brake pad, steel structure with a friction material ring. I'm going to try to clean the rust from the center without touching the friction material. Is this thing safe to clean with brake parts cleaner? The mating pulley is of similar construction, with an inset ring of friction material. The center has some funky substance that I can't identify.



I tapped the center to get the pulley off the shaft. The bearings feel pretty clean. The third piece has quite a bit of brake dust. I'm going to take the parts out of my Jeep this weekend and do a comparison. Hopefully I can get the squeaks to stop with the parts I have.

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Unread 02-03-2011, 10:50 PM   #7
KJK
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 879
There is no friction material. It's just all steel. A Scotchbrite pad will clean that up well enough.
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