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Unread 05-21-2013, 11:26 PM   #16
JohnC7
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Aaaah okay. I'm just getting my info from the link i posted above. Putting anaerobic on the bearing cap, but ultra black is acceptable.

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Unread 05-21-2013, 11:50 PM   #17
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnC7 View Post
Aaaah okay. I'm just getting my info from the link i posted above. Putting anaerobic on the bearing cap, but ultra black is acceptable.

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You're reading something into your link I'm not seeing where ultra black is acceptable, it's not, and re-read #11. I used Mopar anaerobic gasket maker (part #4318083) on the bearing cap where it meets the block because I'm not sure Locktite 518 is available at most auto parts stores. I also put just a small amount of this sealer where the 2 block pieces come together near the front where there's a seam.

http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811

Maybe this diagram will help explain.
rear-bearing-cap-518-sealant-p.9-43.jpg  
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Unread 05-22-2013, 12:03 AM   #18
JohnC7
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Sorry, I'm substituting RTV on the page for ultra black. The only benefit I'm seeing to anaerobic gasket maker is it seals from absence of air. the plan was to just leave the oil pan bolt out, after the pan goes back in, for 24hrs.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 12:27 AM   #19
Uniblurb
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OK, I use ultra black on all kinds of things too but didn't use it on the rubber pan gasket since it didn't call for it. Up to you. I also let mine set for a day before filling with oil. Believe the point in using anaerobic gasket maker is you won't get any air between the cap and block, to dry regular gasket maker, with 80 ft lbs of torque holding the cap on.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 12:45 AM   #20
JohnC7
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Thank you uniblurb. I think I will just wait the 24 hour cure time just in case. The anaerobic gasket maker was initially on the list but money was somewhat limited and the guy at the autoparts store kept insisting on the ultra black hah. I'll just follow the instructions, small beads, etc.

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Unread 05-22-2013, 01:13 AM   #21
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You're welcome John, good luck, and let us know how it goes.
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 06:31 PM   #22
JohnC7
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Alright, so far so good. I started to replace the rear main today, everything went good, especially having lots of room to take the oil pan out. Now i'm starting to replace the upper seal, but it just doesnt want to move. I loosed 3 (excluding the bearing cap for upper seal) of the bearing caps where the bolts are loose. Its difficult to hit the upper seal to pop it out with the crack just right their, carefully not to hit it. Should I loosen up the remaining 3 bearing caps?
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Unread 05-24-2013, 11:10 AM   #23
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No, you shouldn't have to loosen more bearing caps. There may be a little sealer holding the top seal in place and try pushing it up with something small on each side w/o hitting the metal. Then try and taking a thin/small set of needle-nose to see if you can pull it out.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 10:26 PM   #24
JohnC7
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Thought I would update this for anyone in the future. Ended up using a cleaning rod piece for a gun to get the upper seal out. Just had to give it a good wack. The gasket didn't go in very well, the rear bearing part of the gasket and the front I don't think seated very well but we'll see if its still leaking in a week. Might have to take it out and reseat it (if possible ?)

The upper seal, used engine oil on the inside contacting the bearing and soap on the out side of the seal, slid right in. I put RTV ultra black on the bearing block as well, but only small amounts.

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Unread 05-24-2013, 10:40 PM   #25
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How long did the whole process take you? Have you done it before
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Unread 05-24-2013, 10:48 PM   #26
JohnC7
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No I never done this before. For me it was 14 hours. Getting the oil pan out, undoing all the screws, and taking the upper seal oil were the timely parts. Also putting the oil pan back on.

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