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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Rear main seal question

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Unread 05-17-2013, 08:34 PM   #1
JohnC7
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Rear main seal question

So i'm getting around to replacing my rear main seal to fix a drip coming from the flex plate. using this guide http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811 . So my question is, in order to get the oil pan out you have to have clearance from the axle. Is a 2.25" BB enough to let me get the oil pan out without jack the jeep up?

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Unread 05-18-2013, 09:57 AM   #2
kachink
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Not sure about your question, but that's an excellent writeup that you linked to for any needing to do this repair!
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Unread 05-18-2013, 01:33 PM   #3
JohnC7
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Anyone?

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Unread 05-18-2013, 01:38 PM   #4
moparlover1992
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U will need the Jeep jacked up. Mine was on stands and it was raised the equivalent of a 4'' lift with 32'' tires (stock suspension at the time tho) and I had practically every stock suspension component undone minus the control arms and I had to turn mine just the right way to get it out Haynes has a nice pic of what way to twist it for working it out but it needs to be in the air with the axle drooping quite a bit. Good luck
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Unread 05-18-2013, 02:41 PM   #5
thetammon
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Likely its not enough. Mine was jacked waaaay up too. Maybe even closer to 5" I Dropped the steering stabilizer exhaust, jacked it up more... It was still a pain. So hopefully I don't have to do it again until I get a lift haha. Be mindful of the fuel pump too! (No I didn't kill mine)

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Unread 05-18-2013, 07:12 PM   #6
JohnC7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetammon View Post
Likely its not enough. Mine was jacked waaaay up too. Maybe even closer to 5" I Dropped the steering stabilizer exhaust, jacked it up more... It was still a pain. So hopefully I don't have to do it again until I get a lift haha. Be mindful of the fuel pump too! (No I didn't kill mine)

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Kinda like turning it in this video
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Unread 05-19-2013, 12:26 AM   #7
JohnC7
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So hopefully someone can answer this for me that has done a rear main. I got the parts and the seal, looking at the seal I noticed that the "wing" of one of the side is torn a bit right before it turns into the half circle on the top. Is this tear okay or should I get a replacement?

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Unread 05-19-2013, 01:36 AM   #8
moparlover1992
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Picture? If what you're asking is if the seal is suppose to have that then the answer is no. A tear is not a good sign and the seal will likely leak if installed that way. I say get the replacement. What's another week wait?
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Unread 05-19-2013, 08:15 AM   #9
Uniblurb
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Yeah, don't even think about installing that rear seal with a rip/tear in it, take it back and get another. Hope you're using either Mopar or Felpro rear seal/pan gasket since don't believe I'd trust any other brands. I used Mopar for both.

In the write-up/link in your 1st post you won't find a bearing cap brace on your 97 4.0 since it was only installed from the factory on a 96 4.0. I did mine a little different in not using RTV/gasket maker on the pan gasket but did use the Mopar anaerobic gasket maker and have no leaks. I just applied it where the rear main meets the block and where the seam is toward the front where the 2 block pieces come together.

Below is a link/thread where I got the oil pan stuck and the trick was to remove the track bar bolt at the axle to get the axle to drop down far enough to get the pan out. Some real good info from other members in having your tires on the ground and use the steering/body to take the tension off of the TB bolt and aligning it. I also disconnected the sway bar links at the bottom, since they were on a real bind, and the tops of the shocks. Already had the exhaust loose since doing the header replacement at the same time but have seen others say you don't need to loosen the exhaust on the 4.0. Easier to get the pan bolts off if it's loose.

The 2nd part to your rear seal replacement video is also in this thread. Shooting dishwashing liquid soap up in the top slot worked real well and make sure you use a plastic tab for installing the seal so you don't cut the back of the seal. Good luck!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/o...stuck-1363383/
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Unread 05-21-2013, 07:53 PM   #10
JohnC7
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I got a new seal from my parts store. Going to start in a couple days here when my friend can come over and give me a hand. One question I have about the upper seal is, what exactly do I put the liquid soap on? Does the liquid soap cover the whole upper seal? or just the tip of the lip?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:44 PM   #11
JohnC7
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Anyone have know about the soap question?

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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:57 PM   #12
davidtownsend
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Flow the you tube link and there is a part two. Watch that and it'll show you the exact spot. You get one side of the top rear main started and then shoot it from the other side.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 11:02 PM   #13
Uniblurb
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As already mentioned in my link watch the 2nd video in this post. I was able to get a plastic syringe for free at Walmart pharmacy and any drug store/pharmacy should have them. Then you shoot the liquid dish soap up in the groove and use a plastic piece to guide it in so you don't rip the back of the seal off. Kind of a mess, worked for me, and the soap will be all over the seal.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/o...l#post13508136
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 11:13 PM   #14
JohnC7
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Thank you. I have that video all loaded up on my desktop. I just wanted clarification. So the soap is indeed cover the whole seal if its being shot up into the journal.

One more question. I'm using Permatex ultra black for the bearing cap and the oil pan (with gasket). How long should I wait till I start pouring oil back in and go for a drive?

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Unread 05-21-2013, 11:21 PM   #15
Uniblurb
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Actually I shot the soap up both sides of the channel until it oozed out so knew I had it in there good. You will get soap on the seal because it's kind of a mess. Also wear safety glasses so you don't end up with soap in your eyes.

Do not use any type of RTV/gasket maker on the rubber pan gasket, it's not meant for this, and it won't leak. You can't use that ultra black on the bearing where it meets the block either. You should use an aeroebic gasket maker there and just a little bit, like a couple drops.
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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