here is for anyone who really needs it:
Basic Socket Set
Basic combination wrench set
Air ratchet (recommended for time)
Torque wrenches (both lb-ft and lb-in)
(Check manual for types, amounts and applicability):
Rear Main seal
Oil Pan gasket
Oil Pump (recommended)
Loctite 515 or equiv
Stuff of oil change
Well to start, if you need the room, jack the truck up and support it on jack stands and all that safety stuff. I suggest laying a large piece of cardboard under the engine to save your driveway/garage floor. Drain the oil and then replace the oil pan drain bolt. REMOVE THE OIL DIPSTICK!!
First step is to remove the transmission to motor support struts.
You may have to drop the exhaust y-pipe to make enough room to get the oil pan out. To do so, remove the 2 bolts on each clamp. If these have not been taken apart recently, you will probably need to use some penetrating lube and let it soak for awhile.
Next step, at least if you have an automatic transmission, is to remove the starter and the inpection cover on the front of the transmission housing. The starter uses a bolt on the top and a stud/nut on the bottom. The inspection cover has 3 bolts (in addition to the strut bolts and starter holding it in place).
Remove the oil pan bolts. There are a lot of them and they are fine thread. This is where an air ratchet comes in mighty handy. The inspection cover is inside a lip on the pan (I found out the hard way after unbolting the pan, that is why the cover is still attached with the pan down). Using a rubber mallet or screwdriver between the block and pan, drop the oil pan. The rear will want to fall completely and the front will hang up on the crossmember. According to my Haynes manual, I should have used an engine hoist to hold the motor and removed the engine mount through bolts and lifted the engine up 3-4". This would have made removing and reinstalling the pan much easier. I did not have access to one, so it a bit harder getting the pan in and out.