Rear Differential Nosie ! - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
joe19934
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Rear Differential Nosie !

Hi All I just picked up a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited ( I'm Guessing its a ZJ )
It sounds to me that a bearing or more then one are bad in the Rearend.
Anyway I crawled under it today and looked for a Tag but there was none to be found.
I did find a sticker with a Part # on it... Could anyone tell me what maybe in it ? Its a 5.2 AWD if that matters.
Included Pic of Tag on Rear.
Thank you in advance !


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post #2 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 07:19 PM
dnuccio
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you have the dana 44a rear end. its pretty common for the differential bearings to go bad in them, according to what ive read on here. if you do a search, you probably find a dozen or more threads about it

Reliability is relative
R.I.P. Ratmonkey
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
joe19934
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Thank you

I have been looking on here, would there be posts in the Drive Train Section?
I just saw that section..
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 07:34 PM
Technohead
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Its pretty common for a differential in ANY 15+ year old vehicle to be worn and in need of a rebuild.

-Eric

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post #5 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 08:04 PM
shaban
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Take a photo of the diff cover. You'd have either a Dana D35 or Dana D44.

First thing, change the diff oil and look for metal particles/gear chunks in the drained oil.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
joe19934
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Took photo of Diff Cover !

Ok here it is.
I have looked around for a Bearing kit thinking it was a Dana 35 but is there any place I could find parts for a Dana 44a or whatever it is ?
Thanks all.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 09:09 PM
riot1987
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Dont waste your time with finding a tag, the best way to tell if its a 44 or not is to stick a magnet to the case. If it sticks, its NOT a 44. I would guess bearings; either carrier or axle if its beginning to whine.


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post #8 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 09:26 PM
shaban
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Looks like D44A to me, diff housing not too rusty - aluminum in my opinion.
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
joe19934
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Housing is Aluminum !

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaban View Post
Looks like D44A to me, diff housing not too rusty - aluminum in my opinion.
The Housing is Aluminum - A Magnet won't stick to it.......
So its a Dana 44HD I'm guessing - Thanks all

Last edited by joe19934; 08-19-2013 at 10:19 PM.
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 10:18 PM
shaban
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Yep, i'm pretty sure it is.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-19-2013, 11:33 PM
dnuccio
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all 96+ V8s came with the 44a, so no need to be messing with magnets lol

Reliability is relative
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-20-2013, 10:03 AM
PolkaPower
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Probably carrier bearings. Common. I would do the wheel bearings as well just to get it all done for a piece of mind. Part number for the carrier bearings is BK D44HD. Just put that into google.
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-27-2013, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
joe19934
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Thanks all I swapped the rear differential out and the noise is gone
I installed it myself and saved some $$ best part is I acquired some needed extra tools
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-28-2013, 01:34 AM
MyZJ98
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Joe, how was doing the swap yourself? Ill be doing this same things Tuesday for the same reason lol just wondering what special tools you found yourself needing and any major obstacles or problem areas? Thanks

Derek

'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, 140K, NP242, stock. (Sold @205k)
'99 WJ Laredo, 4.7L, 175K, NP249, stock. (Sold @240k)
'97 ZJ Limited, 4.0L, 109K, NP249, stock.(Current)
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-29-2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
joe19934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyZJ98 View Post
Joe, how was doing the swap yourself? Ill be doing this same things Tuesday for the same reason lol just wondering what special tools you found yourself needing and any major obstacles or problem areas? Thanks
Hi & glad you asked this....

1. Make sure the replacement differential is the correct one with the right gears in it.
2. Make sure to order any parts you'll need to replace ahead of time so you'll have them like : ----> Brake Pads, Rotors, Shocks if needed and you should replace the rear swaybar links ends. Oh don't forget to check the Driveshaft U-Joints ( my back U-Joint was going bad so I replaced that while it was out )
3. You'll need a T55 & T50 & Metric Sockets 10,13,15,18 short and deep along with some box wrenches ( ABS sensors are 8mm but you can get away using a 5/16 - 6 point socket or combination wrench ) - Along with all other ratchets and breaker bars or get a cheater-bar to extend you ratchets ( Also a good pair of Vise-Grips ) make sure to use a good pair of jack stands under the body...
4. Get a good can of Penetrating spray ( coat/spray everything with AntiSeize when bolting everything back up for future repair/removal ) and spray everything a few times ahead time and use it while removing stubborn bolts ( I had one stubborn rusted bolt in the left lower arm that I got out eventually )
5. The hardest thing I had encountered was lining the Trackbar up.
I was in an accident within the past month and my left-side is still soar. I had nobody at home who could help me push the rear over to the right an inch or 2 so what I did was used a ratcheting tie down to pull over the rear towards the right to line up the right-side track arm bolt hole. ( You could also use a Come-a-long if you have one )

This is not a how to but things to consider most Important if you are not capable of doing the Swap pay someone to do it - It may end up just saving you some hardship in the long run...

I used AutoZone for parts as I found them to be the cheapest Parts store close by me. And I got what tools I needed that I didn't have from Harbor Freight ( 20+ years as a Ford Mechanic but sold off most of my tools - Stupid move but I needed the cash at the time


I hope this Helps
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