Rear diff contaminated - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 03-28-2006, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
Dylan76
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Rear diff contaminated

Hey folks,

'98 ZJ newbe

I had it in for an oil change recently and they checked the differential oil. The rear diff oil was a bright grey color (they showed me). I assume this is from water contamination? There appears to be a small leak in the seal where the shaft goes in. Would this be the source of water entry? Obviously I need to have the oil changed, do I need all the seals replaced? What might this run me? Thanks for any input.

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post #2 of 16 Old 03-28-2006, 12:49 PM
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I would imagine a new gasket to cost only a few dollars. Change the fluid and see if it comes back

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post #3 of 16 Old 03-28-2006, 12:56 PM
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that small leak shouldn't be the source of the water entry. But it is something that should be replced. It isn't too big of a job either. Do get the fluid changed soon.

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post #4 of 16 Old 03-29-2006, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
Dylan76
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Thanks. It was changed less than 10k ago. I'll change it again and keep a closer eye on it.
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-29-2006, 04:37 PM
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has anyone eles noticed a fair distance in the way the car drives after changing the fluid, especially in the front. Its probably a mental thing but the power during a slow, tight turn (like a driveway) seems to be, hindered.

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post #6 of 16 Old 04-02-2006, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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So I took it in to a shop to have it looked at and they told me it needs a rebuild. They didn't open it up but he test drove it and had it on the lift. He said:

It has posi traction and when its on the lift the tires will rotate in oppisite directions meaning the clutches are shot.

When driven it has obvious bearing noise. (I will attest to that, its fairly loud.)

He won't know untill its opened up if the bearing carrier is bad or if the gears are bad.

carrier - $900, bearings/seals - $150, gears $300. Plus labor. So if it needed everything it would be about $1800.

Does any of this sound reasonable?
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post #7 of 16 Old 04-02-2006, 05:05 PM
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Ouch!

They don't cost that much. The parts list is a little high and the install is too.

After you changed the fluid, did they add friction modifier to it? Do you for sure know that?

If you had water in your diff, you sucked it in through the diff vent, not a BTW small leak from the cover. If it were that big, you'd leak fluid out.

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post #8 of 16 Old 04-03-2006, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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They didn't change the fluid saying it wasn't going to make a difference since it needed to be rebuilt anyway.

Is friction modifier the same as limited slip additive?
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post #9 of 16 Old 04-03-2006, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan76
So I took it in to a shop to have it looked at and they told me it needs a rebuild. They didn't open it up but he test drove it and had it on the lift. He said:

It has posi traction and when its on the lift the tires will rotate in oppisite directions meaning the clutches are shot.

When driven it has obvious bearing noise. (I will attest to that, its fairly loud.)

He won't know untill its opened up if the bearing carrier is bad or if the gears are bad.

carrier - $900, bearings/seals - $150, gears $300. Plus labor. So if it needed everything it would be about $1800.

Does any of this sound reasonable?
WAIT!!
Do you have a build sheet - are you positive you have positraction?
I don't think you do.
Get your build sheet here: Fill out your info and ask for your GCs build sheet in the info requested window.
http://www.jeep.com/wccsapp/universa...ull&category=U

When you spin the wheels in the rear of a jeep on a lift the tires go in opposite directions because the differential is open - no posi!
That Is A Normal Thing To Happen.
Those prices are high - $550 in labor???? And why a new carrier?
You may have a bad bearing, and maybe your gears are shot but I would take it to another shop. I agree with Hunter that the vent hose is likely off - it should be attached to the top driver side of the axle - it's a tube that goes up into the driver side body panel and vent moisture from the diff. It's possibly where the water came in if it's missing. Why would you need a new carrier?
Are your gears howling when you go down the road?? I've gone through 3 sets of gears because of a bad install - so gears howl - bearings whine. Which is it or both.
Any other opinions?

Phil

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post #10 of 16 Old 04-03-2006, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Gerard
WAIT!!
Do you have a build sheet - are you positive you have positraction?
I don't think you do.
Get your build sheet here: Fill out your info and ask for your GCs build sheet in the info requested window.
http://www.jeep.com/wccsapp/universa...ull&category=U

When you spin the wheels in the rear of a jeep on a lift the tires go in opposite directions because the differential is open - no posi!
That Is A Normal Thing To Happen.
Those prices are high - $550 in labor???? And why a new carrier?
You may have a bad bearing, and maybe your gears are shot but I would take it to another shop. I agree with Hunter that the vent hose is likely off - it should be attached to the top driver side of the axle - it's a tube that goes up into the driver side body panel and vent moisture from the diff. It's possibly where the water came in if it's missing. Why would you need a new carrier?
Are your gears howling when you go down the road?? I've gone through 3 sets of gears because of a bad install - so gears howl - bearings whine. Which is it or both.
Any other opinions?

Phil
Definatley make sure that you actually have posi before you just go and have it rebuilt. I also agree with having another mech. take a look at it. Sounds to me like bearings or maybe gears. D35s are notorious for bearings so that would be my guess but like Phil said, does it howl or does it whine?
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post #11 of 16 Old 04-03-2006, 03:23 PM
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For that much you could swap in an 8.8 and have a much better axle.

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post #12 of 16 Old 04-03-2006, 09:13 PM
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Just change the fluid. Seal with RTV. CK in afew K miles.

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post #13 of 16 Old 04-03-2006, 10:11 PM
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Just had my carrier replaced and the loaded carrier (44a with ls clutches, spiders, and bearings) cost me $246. NIB directly from manuf. Mine was making similar noises. About two of the old clutches had grenaded, and the carrier pin and spiders had obvious slop with the cover removed. Upon dragging the dang thing out, all kinds of nice metal pieces all over the floor were heard. 45 min. later-quiet ( I can hear the M/Ts again. ) Find a shop who is not going to beat you with crazy part prices, if indeed you need a rebuild. Good luck.

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post #14 of 16 Old 04-04-2006, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
Dylan76
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Thanks to everyone for the info. Based on y'alls comments I'm going to open it up and change the oil myself to see how it looks in there. Also check the vent tube. Should I use 75-140 or 80-90 w/friction mod?

I checked the original invoice and it is the Trak-Loc rear diff. Its definitely more of a bearing noise, not a howling gear noise.
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post #15 of 16 Old 04-04-2006, 09:20 AM
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Did you understand your mechanic correctly?

This is the method to determine if you have a limited-slip (trak-loc) differential.

1. Place the tranfsercase in neutral.
2. Chock the front wheels to keep the vehicle from moving on you.
3. Jack up the rear of the jeep and support on jackstands.
4. Rotate one of the rear wheels forward by hand. In the case of an open (standard) differential the opposite wheel will turn in the opposite direction of the wheel you are turning. If you have trac-loc however, then the opposite wheel should rotate in the same direction as the wheel that you are turning. You may have to turn the one wheel pretty quickly to get the trac-lok clutch to engage and turn the other wheel.
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