Can't tap off the tailight wires cuz you'd only have power when the taillights are on and you'll just blow the fuses anyway. I'd run a power cable from the battery or a power tap through a 20-30amp fuse to the place where you want power. You can screw a ground wire to the metal just about anywhere even under a body panel screw.
Old but having fun
Real Americans drive Real American!
You're eventually going to want an amp for subs anyways, just run a decent gauge wire (4 gauge or lower) through a junction box from the battery. That way you also have a power connection if you ever need to run an inverter and the power is already run for said amplifier.
Yeah, here I am telling you this and I still need to do this myself. I've got a power wire running from the fuse panel for my amp, but no way to connect my inverter. I also have an extremely bad way of hooking into the fuse panel which is an abomination for an electronics technician like myself to have come up with. So much so that I won't even explain it here...
You're eventually going to want an amp for subs anyways, just run a decent gauge wire (4 gauge or lower) through a junction box from the battery.
What's the best way to run this wire?
Are there already a few holes in the Fire Wall to allow me to run wires of this nature? How do all of the Civics get wires run? Are there "extra" spots on the internal fuse panel where I could plug my power wire in?
I currently have my power wire just run under the rear seats and into the door trim and up to the power seats fuse. But in all reality the best way to run it would be to put the wire through a rubber grommet in the floor and use those plastic wire holder clips (better known as P clips) and mount them with 1/4" or 3/8" self tapping screws. Run it all the way up to the fuse panel under the hood and tap into a relay socket that's not in use for your particular ZJ. On mine it's the DRL socket that's not used, but has power to the socket. Or you could just run the power lead all the way up to the battery after running it through a fuse block.
62.5 Amps + 10% for surge capacity = 68.7Amps. Which would be pushing a 70Amp fuse. And to allow for an extra small power outlet for charging a cell phone or running a laptop, the 80 amp would be ideal. But where you tap the power outlet into the power wire, I would run another distribution block and put a 10-15Amp fuse inline there as well.
I decided to forgo the power outlet and am mounting a 750 watt power inverter in the back of the Jeep in the changer location.
I made use of the cd changer mounting holes and made my own mounting studs.
4 x 4" threaded rods @ 5/16 (cut from 3ft threaded section with hacksaw)
washers, nuts, and lock washers
1/2" or 13mm wrench
The cable is 4ga wire from a pair of jumper cables. I want to run a positive and negative connection to and from the battery. I could ground the unit on the frame, but I'd feel better if it had a direct connection to the battery. I ran it behind the front fender, through the front passenger door, and down the harness track all the way to the back. It's a perfect fit.
I wish the cable had a black side. I haven't connected anything to the battery yet, but I've already cut the spring clamps off and forgot to mark which was neg and pos.
Tomorrow, I'll use cardboard to mock up my platform. I've got a section of 2 x 10 that should do nicely. Hope to get everything put back together by tomorrow night.
I'll use my dremel tool to trim down the posts once I get everything where I want it.
put an extra plug back there the other day it was right where you said to find it.
You had the wiring harness for a plug? Lucky...
I cut my board and fit it into place. I've painted it flat black and am waiting for it to dry overnight. I'll hit it up with some paint in the morning and try to install everything on Wed night or Thur morning.
I'm hoping the trailer harness is there. I just installed a hitch and need to run my light wires...