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Unread Yesterday, 09:14 PM   #1
jswerve
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Rear brake issue 96 ZJ pics inside

Pulled the wheels off of my 96 ZJ (4.0) and found this;



Guessing this is caused by the caliper nesting in those groves over a long period of time? Here's a photo of the pad wear;



Notice it is wearing uneven on the left closest pad and far right back pad.

Rotor;





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Unread Yesterday, 09:18 PM   #2
CatSplat
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Fill the grooves with some weld, grind flat, install new pads. Really common issue with the ZJ brackets.
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Unread Yesterday, 09:20 PM   #3
jswerve
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Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
Fill the grooves with some weld, grind flat, install new pads. Really common issue with the ZJ brackets.
Hey thanks for the quick reply. I am in my driveway lol. No welder available. I don't imagine these brackets come off too easy?
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Unread Yesterday, 09:45 PM   #4
jm8881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
Fill the grooves with some weld, grind flat, install new pads. Really common issue with the ZJ brackets.
Add rotors to that.

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Unread Yesterday, 09:50 PM   #5
jswerve
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Add rotors to that.

Haha yeah I was thinking the same. Now I need to get the dang things off. Not sure on these with the emergency brake and all.
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Unread Yesterday, 10:17 PM   #6
Uniblurb
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You should be able to get the rotors off. Spray around the hub/studs with a good rust cutter, screw the lug nuts on a little to protect the stud threads, then hit the face of the rotor between the lugs with a bfh!

If you don't know what the ebrake looks like inside here's a write up I did on fixing the seized cam/lever. If the shoes end up holding the rotor drum on some just follow the reverse procedure for tightening out the adjusters at the end of the thread.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/e...te-up-1605033/

Best to get those grooves filled with weld as was already mentioned first. Good luck.
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Unread Yesterday, 10:26 PM   #7
jswerve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
You should be able to get the rotors off. Spray around the hub/studs with a good rust cutter, screw the lug nuts on a little to protect the stud threads, then hit the face of the rotor between the lugs with a bfh!

If you don't know what the ebrake looks like inside here's a write up I did on fixing the seized cam/lever. If the shoes end up holding the rotor drum on some just follow the reverse procedure for tightening out the adjusters at the end of the thread.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/e...te-up-1605033/

Best to get those grooves filled with weld as was already mentioned first. Good luck.
Awesome, thanks Uni!
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Unread Yesterday, 10:37 PM   #8
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jswerve View Post
Awesome, thanks Uni!
Appreciate the thanks and glad it helps jswerve!
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread Today, 05:19 AM   #9
marduksenforcer
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There's nothing Uni can't do! He has helped me more times than I can count, and his links are always informative and help save money and time.

He's a ZJ owners best friend.

-AJ
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Unread Today, 08:22 AM   #10
CatSplat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jswerve View Post
Hey thanks for the quick reply. I am in my driveway lol. No welder available. I don't imagine these brackets come off too easy?
Not particularly hard (the bracket/backing plate assy is only held to the axle via 4 bolts) but you do have to disconnect and remove all of the parking brake hardware, which can be a pain. You'll likely be battling some rust on the bolts as well, a good penetrant soak is probably a good idea.

An alternative to having them welded is to buy new ones from Crown.

Also I totally missed the pics of the rotor - yeah, you're going to need new ones, that look pretty thrashed.
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Unread Today, 08:33 AM   #11
jswerve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
Not particularly hard (the bracket/backing plate assy is only held to the axle via 4 bolts) but you do have to disconnect and remove all of the parking brake hardware, which can be a pain. You'll likely be battling some rust on the bolts as well, a good penetrant soak is probably a good idea.

An alternative to having them welded is to buy new ones from Crown.

Also I totally missed the pics of the rotor - yeah, you're going to need new ones, that look pretty thrashed.
Thanks for the tip. Those are pretty spendy. I am doing rotors and pads all around and I will take it out to a friends shop afterwards and see if he can weld and grind the OEM brackets.
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Unread Today, 08:36 AM   #12
CatSplat
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Aye, a buddy with a welder is definitely the easier and cheaper way to do it! Your front caliper brackets will probably need the same treatment while you're at it.
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Unread Today, 08:38 AM   #13
jswerve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
Aye, a buddy with a welder is definitely the easier and cheaper way to do it! Your front caliper brackets will probably need the same treatment while you're at it.

Unfortunately, you are correct.
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