really, what is this? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 66 Old 07-16-2013, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
2tall2slow
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Neat, very cool product seems like it will cut the testing time in half

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post #32 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
2tall2slow
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need to test crank sensor. suppose to be on trans bell housing right? seen pics of what it looks like, cant seem to locate. imagine a poor guy, carport, summer heat, climbing up under hood tracing and searching.. Crawlin under and searching from below.. the only spot i feel it may be is impossible for me to get to. plz tell me thats not the case..
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post #33 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 09:52 AM
dellis
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Your testing will be done at the connector for the crankshaft position sensor ... no need to crawl under the Jeep. For a 1998, the connector for the crankshaft sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine, near the firewall.




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post #34 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
2tall2slow
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Thanks dellis, i found connector and traced to sensor.
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post #35 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 10:35 AM
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If it tests bad, or you suspect it is bad, PLEASE let us tell you the "secrets" you need to know in order to replace it. With the secrets, it is a 20 minute task ... without the secrets, it can be a frustrating 2 hours with a bruised and scraped arm.
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post #36 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
2tall2slow
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10-4.
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post #37 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
2tall2slow
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Unhooked connection to crankshaft sensor, checked points B and C using ohm's.. Getting a zero.
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post #38 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok i'm an idiot. I was testing the actual connector to the sensor. So i youtubed dr jeeps instructions. The connector that supplies the sensor with power is what i tested. I got the 5v reading. Checked the ground and got 0.01 ohms. So tell me, does that rule out crankshaft? Remember, it now cranks but doesnt turn over, and my gauges look good. Whats next?
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post #39 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 06:37 PM
ZeeJay1997
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No you're not idiot. The you tube video you watched assumed that there is a CEL on with a code for the crank sensor, so they had you check voltage to the sensor.

You need to do the resistance check on the sensor pigtail that Uniblurb posted earlier to check sensor. You said you did that and got 0 ohms, what scale was your meter on?
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post #40 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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I got 0 ohms using 2k. Went to 20k still 0.
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post #41 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 08:13 PM
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So your meter is reading "1" when on the ohm scale and not touching the probes to anything or each other. And we're testing the connector/plug on the sensor itself. So when you touch the black probe to the middle B pin, and the red probe to the C pin (would be the right one with locking tab pointed up), your reading is going to "0"? This would be the same as just touching the probes together while on the ohm scale. If this is the case, and you aren't touching the probes together in the sensor connector itself, you have a completely dead crank sensor!

As already mentioned only go with a Mopar crank sensor and I'm posting a link to the test again just so you can make sure the test was done as explained.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/r...l#post15678221
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post #42 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
So your meter is reading "1" when on the ohm scale and not touching the probes to anything or each other. And we're testing the connector/plug on the sensor itself. So when you touch the black probe to the middle C pin, and the red probe to the C pin (would be the right one with locking tab pointed up), your reading is going to "0"? This would be the same as just touching the probes together while on the ohm scale. If this is the case, and you aren't touching the probes together in the sensor connector itself, you have a completely dead crank sensor!

As already mentioned only go with a Mopar crank sensor and I'm posting a link to the test again just so you can make sure the test was done as explained.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/r...l#post15678221
^^ Wow, you can't get any clearer than that ... follow this advice. Oh, and small typo in which the "middle C" should be "middle B"
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post #43 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
2tall2slow
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Yep, used that as a reference after zeejay kindly reminded me. Had the ohm meter tell me 0 after testing w/ black lead on middle point and red on far right, thumb tab up. Def going to try one more test tomm. So the zero means its dead, eh? Wait...is that light i see at the end of the tunnel?
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post #44 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 08:34 PM
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
You said you did that and got 0 ohms, what scale was your meter on?
I believe that's the stupidest question I've ever asked...
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post #45 of 66 Old 07-17-2013, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dellis View Post
^^ Wow, you can't get any clearer than that ... follow this advice. Oh, and small typo in which the "middle C" should be "middle B"
Thanks dellis and the typo is now fixed.

The only flaw in my reasoning may be is if his meter shows "0" to begin with rather than "1" with the probes not touching anything. Regardless, the sensor reading should not be the same as when the probes are touched together or it's bad.

BTW 2tall2slow make sure on your meter the black probe is plugged into the black socket marked "COM" and the red probe is plugged into the red socket marked "+" or "V-W-mA". Ignore the red "10A DC" socket or any others which may be on your meter.
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