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Engo LED Flush Mount Lights *PAIR* Flood or Spot 1,600 LumYukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon ZipRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits

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Unread 11-25-2013, 07:10 PM   #1
ian_red-zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Whitmore, California
Posts: 273
I've owned this Jeep for about a year and a half now. It's a 98 Laredo 5.2, with a D30 front and D44a rear, QuadraTrac, and 44RE. This is my first vehicle, which I acquired during my junior year of high school. It has been a major learning experience and I'm very happy with how it's turned out, and with all the knowledge and skills I've gained through the experience. Everything is basically shown in this original post, but there are more photos and details of things throughout the thread. I didn't create the thread until I had already lifted the jeep, so there's a bit of a gap between stock and then. Enjoy! Here's a list of mods I've installed so far: 3.5" lift - IRO coils in front, V8 coils in rear, IRO adjustable control arms, JKS rear track bar, RE front track bar and bracket, Doetsch Tech shocks rear, Fox 2.0 front, JKS swaybar disconnects Steering - IRO heavy duty over the knuckle steering kit, Durango gearbox Dana 30 - Detroit Truetrac, Alloy USA x-joints, chromoly axle shafts, outer tube seals, Artec Industries HD LCA brackets Bumpers/Armor - ARB Bullbar, fascia removed and metal painted in rear, IRO premium rock sliders Tires & wheels - 285/75r16 Mickey Thompson MTZ on 16 x 8 Mickey Thompson Classic Beadlock (33s) Sound - Kenwood stereo, Kicker speakers front and rear Recovery - Warn VR1200, D rings front and rear, straps, mounted fire extinguisher Miscellaneous - Fenders trimmed front and rear, floor bedlined, Surco safari roof rack, Cobra 29 LX & 4' Firestik, oval headlights, Anzo USA 6" LED bars, 2"x2" LED cubes, driver's seat from an '04 WJ, tinted headlights/corner lights, headliner removed, evap canister relocated, hood stripes, silver grill, maybe some other minor things Photos in order of appearance: #1 - stock, bought in December 2012 with 209,xxx miles #2 - 31's and grille painted black #3 - 3.5" IRO Foundation series lift (went for the jks discos and Doetsch Tech shocks), front winch bumper, Smittybilt XRC8 winch, tinted headlights #4 - 15 x 10 American Racing Outlaws, 33 inch Pro Comps, Surco roof rack, suspension upgrades - jks rear track bar, full set of IRO adj. control arms #5 & 6 - Flex #7 - 285/75r16 MTZ tires on Classic Beadlock rims (not real beadlocks, but they look cool!) #8 & 9 - with the bullbar installed and Hi-lift mounted, about to hit the trails! #10 - most current, with the LED bars mounted to the bumper That's about it for now. Feel free to comment/make suggestions. Thanks for lookin'

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31s-lift.jpg

side-view.jpg

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rear-side.jpg

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Unread 11-25-2013, 07:21 PM   #2
JasonStebbins
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Looks great, it has come a long way. Not sure about those chrome wheels though. I liked the black ones you had on before them. I was going to get those black headlight lenses to match my corners and signals, but was worried about the light output. Velcro would like 100% better then the duck tape for the switch. I need a heavy duty rear bumper as well.
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Unread 11-25-2013, 07:36 PM   #3
ian_red-zj
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Yeah, I don't know if I have the headlights adjusted right, but the light output does seem pretty weak; my old ones broke so I can't put them back. It's part of the reason I got the leds. oh and good call on the velcro
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Unread 11-25-2013, 07:41 PM   #4
JasonStebbins
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They actually look pretty yellow in the picture, could just need a new set of bulbs. I went with the clear euro ones because mine were so dingy. All my switches are Velcro. As for switch mounting, take out that worthless analog VIC and use that space for all your auxilliary and storage needs. That light bar is some serious lightage.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 11:26 AM   #5
ian_red-zj
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UPDATE: Installed IRO over the knuckle steering, cut fenders front and rear (need to weld rear shut still), picked up u-joint axle shafts from a 98 limited; in great condition with almost no rust and good splines, hopefully will install today, more pics coming soon

Last edited by ian_red-zj; 12-28-2013 at 12:28 PM..
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Unread 12-28-2013, 11:44 AM   #6
ian_red-zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Picked em up from the local salvage yard for $54 (instead of $350 online). They're a good strength upgrade from my cv axles and should bolt right in
EDIT: these broke real quick
image-176411373.jpg

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Unread 12-28-2013, 11:56 AM   #7
HighLonesome
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Sweet rig
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Unread 12-28-2013, 12:26 PM   #8
ian_red-zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Here's the steering: thick tie rod from knuckle to knuckle and drag link from passenger knuckle to pitman arm, uses high misalignment washers and some long bolts. (Iron Rock Offroad $350.) Installed pretty easily; will hopefully get a professional alignment this weekend or just do it with a tape measure when I put my axles in haha.
image-2614887660.jpg

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Unread 12-28-2013, 05:13 PM   #9
riot1987
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Location: Lakewood, COLORADO
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Mount your switch to the left of the steering wheel-where your left knee hits kinda under the steering column. There is plenty of room for all kinds of ****. I put my switches there.

Nice rig chief
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Unread 12-28-2013, 05:36 PM   #10
ian_red-zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: Whitmore, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riot1987
Mount your switch to the left of the steering wheel-where your left knee hits kinda under the steering column. There is plenty of room for all kinds of ****. I put my switches there.

Nice rig chief
Yeah I switched to Velcro like j stebs suggested so I'll prolly move everything over there when I install Hellas hopefully soon.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 06:20 PM   #11
ian_red-zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Whitmore, California
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How to break two breaker bars in one day: 1. place Snap-On 18 inch bar onto 36 mm axle jam nut on a rusted 95 xj 2. Jump up and down on bar in an attempt to break the nut loose 3. Break the pin holding the 1/2 inch drive onto the bar 4. Switch to craftsman breaker bar, give up, and move across the junkyard until you come across a 98 GC Limited that has u-joint axles in the Dana 30 5. Successfully remove the axle shafts 6. Get home and attempt to use the handle of a Hi-Lift jack for extra leverage when trying to break your old jam nuts loose 6. Break the 1/2 inch drive clear off of the bar 7. Borrow an impact gun from a friend

image-3281448646.jpg

No photos of steps one through five, sorry
image-275874322.jpg

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Unread 12-28-2013, 07:19 PM   #12
PolkaPower
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Save yourself the jumping next time and let the weight of the ZJ do the work. Brace the breaker bar on the ground and let the jack down. Or like you said, air tools.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 05:17 AM   #13
Myusername1674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Save yourself the jumping next time and let the weight of the ZJ do the work. Brace the breaker bar on the ground and let the jack down. Or like you said, air tools.
Never thought of that. I use a breaker bar and a six foot long poll. Works well enough.

Ot. Hey man lile the jeep, you broken a lotta cv shafts with that locked front with 33s? I locked my front but have cvs and 31s atm. (Might change with my new lift in the next few weeks). Just trying to find how durable these shafts are or aren't.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 11:37 AM   #14
ian_red-zj
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Location: Whitmore, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myusername1674

Never thought of that. I use a breaker bar and a six foot long poll. Works well enough.

Ot. Hey man lile the jeep, you broken a lotta cv shafts with that locked front with 33s? I locked my front but have cvs and 31s atm. (Might change with my new lift in the next few weeks). Just trying to find how durable these shafts are or aren't.
Nah I only broke one but I thought it'd be good to switch them out. It happened shortly after I put the locker in, with only one off road trip, so I would assume the cv's aren't that durable with the smaller moving parts.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 11:52 AM   #15
ian_red-zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Whitmore, California
Posts: 273
Here's the current pics of the jeep with the fenders trimmed (before they were finished; still looking crappy in these pics). The alignment cost $283 because of the type of steering, which had to be taken off every time an adjustment was made. But the guy made sure the camber and caster and everything else was good. I also found out that I need a new steering gear box and engine and tranny mounts.

image-3507416917.jpg

He couldn't get the front pass. side perfect because I have a bent LCA mount. Might replace with more heavy duty ones.

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I got the rear bumper painted. I'm trying to get my dirt bike running so I can sell it and get a heavy duty bumper. If any one knows anything about Suzukis let me know.
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Last edited by ian_red-zj; 12-31-2013 at 05:29 PM.. Reason: typo
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build lift mud tires , build thread , led light bar , lift and tire combination , winch bumper

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