So ive looked in the previous threads and there are links but all are dead. I looking to fix my 90455 . From reading threads all night i know i can find a leak but still i would like to know actual specs and be able to properly diag these components. I purchased the manual online and of course anytime there about to go in depth it says " refer to the Powertrain Diagnostic manual "
Does anyone have this in pdf format im willing to pay for it. I know the hard copy is expensive this is why i want the pdf.
I've never seen a PDF of any of the diagnostic manuals. Not to say they aren't around though. There are a bunch of the printed 1997 ZJ powertrain manuals on eBay right now, typical price about $40.
My experience with the 1993 diagnostic manuals (I have powertrain, body, transmission, ABS and CCD) is that most of the procedures involve using a DRB scan tool to actuate systems with the engine off or to measure voltages or resistances. In some cases you can see that you could use a normal multimeter, but not always. That may limit the manual's usefulness if you don't have access to a DRB3.
thank you so much for that information I actually did see one on ebay for 30 bucks I was about to buy it. well that'll just really sucks whatever happened to just a simple diag tree.
all I'm looking for is something to tell me what port how many inches a vacuum to what port and if so the next step. today I am going to remove the windshield washer reserv. and the air filter housing and look for obvious visual inspection.
I am looking for specs on testing the is evap system. I have already searched the obvious visual inspection and there are no leaks. before I suspect that leak detection pump which can be costly I would like to properly diagnose. I have a vacuum gauge and multi meter.
Even if you had the DRBassuming it was a 3 it would require the pep module set and I think the supercard2. AVR knows more about the 2 than I do. Actually you wouldn't have to have the whole set,just a particular adapter. While the diagnostics often refer to a drb they do give values in some instances you just use the drb to aquire. Sometimes its a bit more complicated than that,but sometimes you can get by with what you have. Give me awhile to dig around in my 98 hard copy to see if I see anything.
It gets kinda bogged down in the test procedure,but to diagnose if you have a bad ldp it goes like this..use a hand held held vacumn pump and apply 18 in. of vacumn to the svst port vacumn tee. The vacumn should hold, if it doesn't check all the lines are good before replacing the ldp. Then it goes on to actuate the ldp solenoid with a drb with the ignition on .The vacumn should drop,and if it doesn't replace the ldp.
Apparently the ldp solenoid is a 12 volt circuit and you should be able to isolate and test the solenoid if needed. You should hear a clicking sound, and when acuated it should drop the vacumn as stated above. To further test the solenoid circuit you'll need to get familiar with the wiring diagrams section in the manual you have. The fused ignition supply cavity two to ground with the connector disconnected from the ldp should be more than 10 volts with the key on.
Further, to test the circuit from the pcm to the ldp , key off, disconnect the black connector to the pcm and read from the C10 pin to the cav3on the ldp connector. If the 97-98 wiring layout is the same it should be a DG/RD wire. It should be less than 5 ohms.
It goes on to test for a short to ground, which with your given code is probaly unlikely. But if you need me to I'll relay the info. But to test the vacumn portion of the ldp this work around may work. It never gives actual vacumn readings and to test the system further requires pressurising it with a chrysler gizmo. Hope this helps.