popping when turning - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > popping when turning

Rugged Ridge Modular XHD Snorkel Now for both 3.8L and 3.6RIGID LED Light Blowout Sale - All Sizes, All Series, all Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

Reply
Unread 09-22-2009, 06:08 PM   #1
NEp8ntballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 248
popping when turning

I replaced the track bar earlier and the noise was not there. I then replaced the steering stabilizer on the advice of my diesel mechanic buddy after he noticed it was leaking oil and that fixed my DW but now when I turn the wheel I can get it to pop. It will happen when turning both left and right. It always happens at the same point in movement in the steering wheel and I can do it from just barely crawling so body roll doesn't seem to be a factor. It also doesn't feel like the wheel hangs up or binds either.

If I go into a turn slow and then get a little more lateral g forces it will creak instead of popping while if I throw the jeep into a corner it will pop. I replaced one tie rod end already and it seemed to make it better for a little while and now it's getting worse again. It has a shake in the wheel as well on smooth roads and it kinda feels like the jeep is wandering down the road. Immediately after i replaced the tie rod end I test drove it and tracked straight and didn't wander.

in other news I pulled the diff cover because I was hoping to R&R my pinion bearings and found pitting on the ring gear and some black areas in between the teeth on the spider gears. along with a decent amount of contamination in the oil and a large amount of black crap still sticking to the back of the cover. It doesn't even have 15k on it since te cover was off to get the carrier bearings replaced and there was what seemed like 1/4 inch of black crap on the diff cover. We put 100% lucas oil stabilizer in the rear to get it to hold until I can get a new set of gears and maye a new diff. I haven't decided yet.

so what steering/suspension component should I replace next? And an interesting thing about the track bar is the new unit I installed will rotate forward/backward very willingly and I torqued it to spec. and for those of you thinking I'm a retard I greased the new track bar before putting it in. I'm not a fan of the duralast because it seems pretty willing to move around. but my other one was rusted onto the jeep so maybe it's meant to do that...


Last edited by NEp8ntballer; 09-22-2009 at 08:34 PM..
NEp8ntballer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-22-2009, 07:57 PM   #2
sandman
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Posts: 5,354
get under there and tighten everything bubba tight.
__________________
1993 Jeep ZJ. 4.0
sandman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-22-2009, 09:02 PM   #3
AL04WJ
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 146
I had the exact same symptoms on my jeep after I did my 3" lift and replaced my stock track bar. It turned out to be the track bar bolt ovaling out on the side where it attaches to the frame. We welded a washer on there and its been fixed ever since.
__________________
Julian
2004 Laredo 4" lift, 265/75/16 Duratracs, JCR Stage II sliders, ARB bumper and XD9000
AL04WJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-22-2009, 09:25 PM   #4
ezflip
NEWS FLASH It snows in MI
 
ezflip's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,023
What are you driving? zj, wj, 4.0, V8????
__________________
~James

2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, Kolak 3" exhaust, Flowmaster 50 series


Build Thread


ezflip is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-22-2009, 11:28 PM   #5
NEp8ntballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 248
Quote:
Originally Posted by AL04WJ View Post
I had the exact same symptoms on my jeep after I did my 3" lift and replaced my stock track bar. It turned out to be the track bar bolt ovaling out on the side where it attaches to the frame. We welded a washer on there and its been fixed ever since.
good thing you said frame side otherwise I'd be in trouble. I already welded a washer to the axle side and my buddy got a little happy with the welder so he ended up tacking down the bolt. I'll have to give that a try next. grade 8 washers are pretty cheap compared to components.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
What are you driving? zj, wj, 4.0, V8????
1994 4.0 4x4

I'm also fairly certain that over tightening a nut/bolt can lead to excessive wear and premature failure...
NEp8ntballer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-23-2009, 12:36 AM   #6
sandman
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Posts: 5,354
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEp8ntballer View Post
I'm also fairly certain that over tightening a nut/bolt can lead to excessive wear and premature failure...
getting a breaker bar and tightening your track bar and control arm bolts isnt going to hurt anything.
__________________
1993 Jeep ZJ. 4.0
sandman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-23-2009, 02:06 AM   #7
the88thpianoman
Registered User
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,252
I have this same symptom, and I have replaced all the TRE's and the ball joints. I suspect it is most likely the track bar, but shot control arm bushings could also be the culprit.
__________________
2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
the88thpianoman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-23-2009, 02:12 AM   #8
MLTXJ9889
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 999
Have someone turn your steering wheel slightly from side to side while you look at all the steering compontes. I would say its more than likely a shot and sloppy track bar though. You can solve most front end popping noises this way from TRE to control arms.
MLTXJ9889 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-23-2009, 06:50 AM   #9
ezflip
NEWS FLASH It snows in MI
 
ezflip's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,023
Also check your sway bar end links. They are a ball joint style on ZJ's and can cause pops and creaks. My buddy has broken 3 of them in the last 4 years and only notices it when turning or larger bumps.
__________________
~James

2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, Kolak 3" exhaust, Flowmaster 50 series


Build Thread


ezflip is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-23-2009, 09:00 AM   #10
NEp8ntballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 248
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLTXJ9889 View Post
Have someone turn your steering wheel slightly from side to side while you look at all the steering compontes. I would say its more than likely a shot and sloppy track bar though. You can solve most front end popping noises this way from TRE to control arms.
track bar has less than 3k miles on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman View Post
I have this same symptom, and I have replaced all the TRE's and the ball joints. I suspect it is most likely the track bar, but shot control arm bushings could also be the culprit.
the control arm bushings are starting to show some signs of deterioration...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
Also check your sway bar end links. They are a ball joint style on ZJ's and can cause pops and creaks. My buddy has broken 3 of them in the last 4 years and only notices it when turning or larger bumps.
the end links do have a little bit of creak to them but I think it's because they aren't greasable. I can push up on the front end from under it and they creak every time. they have less than 30k on them but are starting to rust on the bottom. the set of end links on them were on their way out when I got it and they broke a little.
NEp8ntballer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-28-2009, 10:21 PM   #11
NEp8ntballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 248
well I'm beginning to think that it's the track bar which may be a world record. anybody have any luck with the duralast? I got under it when I was filling up and it seems that there is some up and down play in the balljoint if I isolate it from the rest of the vehicle. before replacing the SS it meet 5-6 very bad death wobble episodes where I could hear the tires complaining as they banged back and forth. Which is a lot for duelers to complain. I've taken a cloverleaf onramp at 40 and I have to have the window down to hear them make a little noise. but it still seems awful fast for a track bar to wear out which makes me think there may be other things leading to my issues. I almost want to buy a lift kit and Kevin's upgraded steering setup but I know better than to lift a broken rig.
NEp8ntballer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-28-2009, 10:28 PM   #12
Jeepfordan
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Posts: 335
I had the duralast on mine for about 3k before I got an IRO adjustable. I didn't have any problems with it
__________________
1978 CJ-7-SOLD
1995 ZJ-SOLD
1996 ZJ-SOLD
1998 XJ- 4.0/AX-15/231- 3.5" RE. 4.10 gears
Jeepfordan is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-28-2009, 10:30 PM   #13
ZeJokee
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 1,492
I am getting a popping sound also when I turn. It just started the last few weeks and has been getting worse. I put on the IRO 3.5'' lift about 3 months ago. I have tightened every in the front. I still can not track down where it is coming from.
__________________
99 WJ Ltd, Blacked out, 4.7L, 242j Swap, 2'' BB, 245/75/16 Kuhmo Venture AT KL78, Flow Master Super 40, MagnaFlow high flow Cat, Akebono caliper upgrade, Addco rear swaybar, Westin brush guard, Moog Super Trail Boss, Rancho RS5000, Rola roof rack with dual kayak J hooks, PAC-AOEM-CHR, Sony Xplod 1200w amp, 2 Sony Xplod 12'' subs, 118,XXX miles (SOLD)
93 ZJ Ltd, Blacked out, 5.2L, Reman 46RH, Reman 242 Swap, 3.5'' IRO + 2" BB, 33x12.50r15 Mud Claw MTX radials, Bushwacker Flares, 216,XXX miles (Still parked in NC)
04 F-350 SD Crew Cab FX4 Lariat, 6.0 PSD SRW, Head studs, AFE Stage 2 SI Pro Guard 7 intake, Blue Spring mod, 150,XXX Miles

ZeJokee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-29-2009, 07:44 AM   #14
Area.3.Fiftyone
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kingston, Pa. 18704, Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,469
I had the same problem as you guys are describing and could swear that everything was tight.

Not so, a long 1/2" ratchet on the track bar bolts where it attaches to the front axle did the trick.
__________________
79' CJ7 - 82' CJ8 - 94' YJ - 96' ZJ
Diagonally parked in a parallel universe.......
Area.3.Fiftyone is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-29-2009, 11:01 AM   #15
NEp8ntballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 248
Quote:
Originally Posted by PutoDeMadre View Post
I had the same problem as you guys are describing and could swear that everything was tight.

Not so, a long 1/2" ratchet on the track bar bolts where it attaches to the front axle did the trick.
I torqued mine once and then again the next day. at the axle it's the proper spec. As far as up top I couldn't get enough leverage on it with my 3/8 torque wrench so I went with the 1/2 inch to get it to spec. Obviously it was out of the optimal reading zone but I had to move it another 1/8 of a turn to get the cotter pin on so I am fairly certain that it also is meeting or slightly exceeding the proper specification.

plus my bolt is welded on at the axle. if I'm gonna take the time to cut through the weld to pull the bolt out you can bet your *** I'm gonna pop it off at the frame and warranty the *****.
NEp8ntballer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.