popping when turning - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-22-2009, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
NEp8ntballer
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popping when turning

I replaced the track bar earlier and the noise was not there. I then replaced the steering stabilizer on the advice of my diesel mechanic buddy after he noticed it was leaking oil and that fixed my DW but now when I turn the wheel I can get it to pop. It will happen when turning both left and right. It always happens at the same point in movement in the steering wheel and I can do it from just barely crawling so body roll doesn't seem to be a factor. It also doesn't feel like the wheel hangs up or binds either.

If I go into a turn slow and then get a little more lateral g forces it will creak instead of popping while if I throw the jeep into a corner it will pop. I replaced one tie rod end already and it seemed to make it better for a little while and now it's getting worse again. It has a shake in the wheel as well on smooth roads and it kinda feels like the jeep is wandering down the road. Immediately after i replaced the tie rod end I test drove it and tracked straight and didn't wander.

in other news I pulled the diff cover because I was hoping to R&R my pinion bearings and found pitting on the ring gear and some black areas in between the teeth on the spider gears. along with a decent amount of contamination in the oil and a large amount of black crap still sticking to the back of the cover. It doesn't even have 15k on it since te cover was off to get the carrier bearings replaced and there was what seemed like 1/4 inch of black crap on the diff cover. We put 100% lucas oil stabilizer in the rear to get it to hold until I can get a new set of gears and maye a new diff. I haven't decided yet.

so what steering/suspension component should I replace next? And an interesting thing about the track bar is the new unit I installed will rotate forward/backward very willingly and I torqued it to spec. and for those of you thinking I'm a retard I greased the new track bar before putting it in. I'm not a fan of the duralast because it seems pretty willing to move around. but my other one was rusted onto the jeep so maybe it's meant to do that...


Last edited by NEp8ntballer; 09-22-2009 at 07:34 PM.
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post #2 of 21 Old 09-22-2009, 06:57 PM
sandman
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get under there and tighten everything bubba tight.

1993 Jeep ZJ. 4.0
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post #3 of 21 Old 09-22-2009, 08:02 PM
AL04WJ
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I had the exact same symptoms on my jeep after I did my 3" lift and replaced my stock track bar. It turned out to be the track bar bolt ovaling out on the side where it attaches to the frame. We welded a washer on there and its been fixed ever since.

Julian
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post #4 of 21 Old 09-22-2009, 08:25 PM
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What are you driving? zj, wj, 4.0, V8????

~James

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post #5 of 21 Old 09-22-2009, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
NEp8ntballer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AL04WJ View Post
I had the exact same symptoms on my jeep after I did my 3" lift and replaced my stock track bar. It turned out to be the track bar bolt ovaling out on the side where it attaches to the frame. We welded a washer on there and its been fixed ever since.
good thing you said frame side otherwise I'd be in trouble. I already welded a washer to the axle side and my buddy got a little happy with the welder so he ended up tacking down the bolt. I'll have to give that a try next. grade 8 washers are pretty cheap compared to components.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
What are you driving? zj, wj, 4.0, V8????
1994 4.0 4x4

I'm also fairly certain that over tightening a nut/bolt can lead to excessive wear and premature failure...
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post #6 of 21 Old 09-22-2009, 11:36 PM
sandman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEp8ntballer View Post
I'm also fairly certain that over tightening a nut/bolt can lead to excessive wear and premature failure...
getting a breaker bar and tightening your track bar and control arm bolts isnt going to hurt anything.

1993 Jeep ZJ. 4.0
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post #7 of 21 Old 09-23-2009, 01:06 AM
the88thpianoman
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I have this same symptom, and I have replaced all the TRE's and the ball joints. I suspect it is most likely the track bar, but shot control arm bushings could also be the culprit.

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post #8 of 21 Old 09-23-2009, 01:12 AM
MLTXJ9889
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Have someone turn your steering wheel slightly from side to side while you look at all the steering compontes. I would say its more than likely a shot and sloppy track bar though. You can solve most front end popping noises this way from TRE to control arms.
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-23-2009, 05:50 AM
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Also check your sway bar end links. They are a ball joint style on ZJ's and can cause pops and creaks. My buddy has broken 3 of them in the last 4 years and only notices it when turning or larger bumps.

~James

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post #10 of 21 Old 09-23-2009, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLTXJ9889 View Post
Have someone turn your steering wheel slightly from side to side while you look at all the steering compontes. I would say its more than likely a shot and sloppy track bar though. You can solve most front end popping noises this way from TRE to control arms.
track bar has less than 3k miles on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman View Post
I have this same symptom, and I have replaced all the TRE's and the ball joints. I suspect it is most likely the track bar, but shot control arm bushings could also be the culprit.
the control arm bushings are starting to show some signs of deterioration...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
Also check your sway bar end links. They are a ball joint style on ZJ's and can cause pops and creaks. My buddy has broken 3 of them in the last 4 years and only notices it when turning or larger bumps.
the end links do have a little bit of creak to them but I think it's because they aren't greasable. I can push up on the front end from under it and they creak every time. they have less than 30k on them but are starting to rust on the bottom. the set of end links on them were on their way out when I got it and they broke a little.
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post #11 of 21 Old 09-28-2009, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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well I'm beginning to think that it's the track bar which may be a world record. anybody have any luck with the duralast? I got under it when I was filling up and it seems that there is some up and down play in the balljoint if I isolate it from the rest of the vehicle. before replacing the SS it meet 5-6 very bad death wobble episodes where I could hear the tires complaining as they banged back and forth. Which is a lot for duelers to complain. I've taken a cloverleaf onramp at 40 and I have to have the window down to hear them make a little noise. but it still seems awful fast for a track bar to wear out which makes me think there may be other things leading to my issues. I almost want to buy a lift kit and Kevin's upgraded steering setup but I know better than to lift a broken rig.
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post #12 of 21 Old 09-28-2009, 09:28 PM
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I had the duralast on mine for about 3k before I got an IRO adjustable. I didn't have any problems with it

1998 XJ- 4.0/AX-15/231- 3.5" RE. 4.10 gears - 4.6 build in progress.
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post #13 of 21 Old 09-28-2009, 09:30 PM
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I am getting a popping sound also when I turn. It just started the last few weeks and has been getting worse. I put on the IRO 3.5'' lift about 3 months ago. I have tightened every in the front. I still can not track down where it is coming from.

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post #14 of 21 Old 09-29-2009, 06:44 AM
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I had the same problem as you guys are describing and could swear that everything was tight.

Not so, a long 1/2" ratchet on the track bar bolts where it attaches to the front axle did the trick.

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post #15 of 21 Old 09-29-2009, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PutoDeMadre View Post
I had the same problem as you guys are describing and could swear that everything was tight.

Not so, a long 1/2" ratchet on the track bar bolts where it attaches to the front axle did the trick.
I torqued mine once and then again the next day. at the axle it's the proper spec. As far as up top I couldn't get enough leverage on it with my 3/8 torque wrench so I went with the 1/2 inch to get it to spec. Obviously it was out of the optimal reading zone but I had to move it another 1/8 of a turn to get the cotter pin on so I am fairly certain that it also is meeting or slightly exceeding the proper specification.

plus my bolt is welded on at the axle. if I'm gonna take the time to cut through the weld to pull the bolt out you can bet your *** I'm gonna pop it off at the frame and warranty the *****.
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