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Unread 07-01-2013, 06:50 PM   #1
AllGoNoShow
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PO 1762-Transmission Pressure Sensor?

MY 98' 4.0L GC has throw the above check engine code-from a little research it seems I need to replace the governor pressure solenoid and pressure sensor in the transmission (probably replace the filter and fluid while I am there and adjust the bands). The tranny has been shifting a little funny (sometimes holding onto a gear too long) and it is noticeable on the expressway when you cruise the engine rpm will jump up a couple hundred rpm for no reason (like the torque convertor lock up solenoid is engaging and then disengaging).

I can't seem to find what part the pressure sensor is (Rock Auto has the solenoid but not the sensor). If anyone can point me in the right direction, or provide any tips it would be appreciated. Also, do I have to drop my exhaust to get at the trasmission on these cars (it is welded together and very rusty!). Thanks for any help you can provide.

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Unread 07-01-2013, 07:46 PM   #2
Jeeples
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Buy it from the dealer. Several of us here have purchased the pressure sensor from Cascade Transmission parts and/or eBay and have had issues (myself included).

Using a genuine Mopar sensor solved the issue. Not to mention Cascade ignored all my requests for a refund of the faulty sensor.
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His:'00 WJ, 4.7 Limited, stock
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Unread 07-02-2013, 08:59 PM   #3
AllGoNoShow
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Thanks for the heads up on that. I will def. go with dealer parts.

Is it possible for low fluid to cause this code? I just checked my fluid in neutral and it is barely showing on the bottom 1/4 inch of the dipstick (nowhere near the cross hatch range for full).
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Unread 07-03-2013, 10:45 AM   #4
Jeeples
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Possible, but doubtful. Still, top it off and see what symptoms persist.

Now I will note that it is worthwhile to use the larger BWD solenoid as the larger diameter body prevents friction material from blocking flow through the solenoid.
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Hers: '03 WJ, 4.7 V8, Kolak Exhaust, IRO 3", Bilsteins, JKS TB, KOR TB Bushings, 32" Cooper ATP's
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Unread 07-03-2013, 12:26 PM   #5
KJK
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I got the pressure sensor and updated solonoid from here. Best price I've found on the internet.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 03:40 PM   #6
AllGoNoShow
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Replaced the solenoid and sensor with mopar parts....check engine light is gone and car shifts into gears very smoothly. However, i am still having the following problem that I did before-While cruising at highway speeds, the engine will randomly surge, rpms will jump up 2-300 for a second or two, then go back down. It almost looks like the TCC Lock-up is engaging and disengaging for absolutely no reason. This doesn't happen all the time and will just randomly show up a few times on highway drive.

It is the GC with 4.0L which as been plagued with various electronic gremlins over the years (last one was a year and a half ago-engine bucking and stalling-which eventually resulted in a new computer installed at dealership after a good couple months of head scratching).

Any ideas on why it is doing this surging thing? I dont know if its related but I also noticed that sometimes when I put the car into park or neutral after driving it the engine idles real high for no reason-like 1,300-1,500 rpms.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 04:06 PM   #7
KJK
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That is almost assuredly your throttle position sensor (TPS) on the throttle body. Classic symptoms. I had the 200-300 rpm jump above 40mph and that cured it.
I got one from Autozone for 1/2 the price of a dealer one and it was guaranteed for 2 years! Works great and it's been a few years now.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 09:39 PM   #8
Jeeples
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Clean the IAC first.

Otherwise it sounds like it's time for a new TPS. Again I would go Mopar first, however if I had to go with an aftermarket brand it would be BWD (Borg Warner). They can be found at O'Reilly or Advanced Auto. Just stay away from the BWD P Series as that is their more budget minded offering.

Many times you will find a Mopar part number stamped onto a BWD part as they supply several sensor lines for them.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 01:34 AM   #9
jabba974
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I agree with KJK, check the TPS and the IAC...also might want to check all your vacum lines...As far as brands, I like Standard Ignition, but BWD is good too...Mopar maybe the way to go, but you also pay more for it...
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Unread 07-20-2013, 07:43 AM   #10
ZeeJay1997
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The IAC has nothing to do with the way the vehicle operates at highway speeds. It controls the air moving around the throttle plate when it is closed.

Your brake switch is bad. What you are feeling is the TC locking up and unlocking. To confirm get it out on the highway above 45 mph and hold accelerator steady with right foot and barely touch the brake pedal with your left foot. Don't press too much, just very lightly move the pedal. Compare that to you intermittent jump.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 11:01 AM   #11
Jeeples
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
The IAC has nothing to do with the way the vehicle operates at highway speeds. It controls the air moving around the throttle plate when it is closed.
Unless it's gummed up to the point it doesn't seat against the TB properly when it's supposed to be in the fully closed position.

It's a free/cheap thing to check and certainly can't hurt.
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Daily Driver: '05 SRT4, Stock turbo, 252 WHP, 321 WTQ
Hers: '03 WJ, 4.7 V8, Kolak Exhaust, IRO 3", Bilsteins, JKS TB, KOR TB Bushings, 32" Cooper ATP's
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Unread 07-20-2013, 12:20 PM   #12
ZeeJay1997
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It never hurts to clean the IAC, but it could be taken out and and the idle air passage JB welded and the engine would perform the same when the is throttle open... it just would not idle.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 01:18 PM   #13
Jeeples
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
It never hurts to clean the IAC, but it could be taken out and and the idle air passage JB welded and the engine would perform the same when the is throttle open... it just would not idle.
I'm not talking about idling...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Unless it's gummed up to the point it doesn't seat against the TB properly when it's supposed to be in the fully closed position.
Regardless, the first step (at least when it comes to ZJ's) in diagnosing an engine RPM related issue should be to clean and/or check the IAC, regardless of vehicle speed.
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Daily Driver: '05 SRT4, Stock turbo, 252 WHP, 321 WTQ
Hers: '03 WJ, 4.7 V8, Kolak Exhaust, IRO 3", Bilsteins, JKS TB, KOR TB Bushings, 32" Cooper ATP's
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Unread 07-20-2013, 01:30 PM   #14
AllGoNoShow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
The IAC has nothing to do with the way the vehicle operates at highway speeds. It controls the air moving around the throttle plate when it is closed.

Your brake switch is bad. What you are feeling is the TC locking up and unlocking. To confirm get it out on the highway above 45 mph and hold accelerator steady with right foot and barely touch the brake pedal with your left foot. Don't press too much, just very lightly move the pedal. Compare that to you intermittent jump.
I've tried this a couple times....its really hard to tell but when it does the surging....it seems like it goes up 2-300rpms when the engine surges while if I try to unlock the TCC using this method it only goes up maybe 150rpms. What is a brake switch and where is it?

I've also noticed that when I am idling, again this is random and not all the time, sometimes it idles lower than usual (like 600 rpms instead of usual 750), and very rarely if I am idling for a while the engine will "chug" real low and feel like it wants to die.
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