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Unread 07-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #1
KZOOZJ
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Plenum Repair Time, seeking wisdom

I have purchased a new water pump (while im at it, might as well) along with the necessary gaskets and bolts to do the plenum repair. I have been reading all about the replacement plate, but i was told when i purchased the gaskets that i wouldnt need a plate. The gaskets are mopar. I have also read the checklist from another user but cant seem to find a good write up thread with photos. Can anyone throw me a bone here?

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Unread 07-26-2013, 08:29 PM   #2
ZJ_This
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Best thing to do is get the aluminum plate, it will expand and contract as much as the intake and not push out the gasket. Or get the metal gasket that was once sold by mopar until they went back to paper. The metal is stronger and more resistant to being pushed out by the different expansion rates. or just get the paper gasket and throw it on, in a few years and thousands of miles it will happen again. I did the paper gasket because it was cheap, next time i have the intake off i may redo it with an aluminum pan.

As far as a write up either look for one that may be there or go get the haynes manual, itll help you out alot later.
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Unread 07-26-2013, 08:47 PM   #3
newfieZJ
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When I first did my plenum on the 95 , I used a fel-pro gasket , anaerobic gasket maker , and the stock plate . It's as tight as ever . However , I do have a Hughes plate , and Fel-Pro gasket sitting here for my next plenum endevour . It is a better way to go . I wouldn't hesitate to use the stock plate again just like I did before . I would not use the factory style metal gasket . I have 2 kicking around somewhere unused
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Unread 07-26-2013, 08:59 PM   #4
KZOOZJ
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The gasket i have appears to be metal, and is from Mopar. Has anyone tried this as a replacement?
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Unread 07-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #5
KZOOZJ
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I will grab a manual for install as well, thanks.
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Unread 07-26-2013, 09:11 PM   #6
AnotherRedZj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KZOOZJ View Post
The gasket i have appears to be metal, and is from Mopar. Has anyone tried this as a replacement?
My crate came with the metal gasket in the gasket bag. I Used the same plate, I saw no reason not too. All is well at 6k!
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Unread 07-26-2013, 09:16 PM   #7
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KZOOZJ View Post
The gasket i have appears to be metal, and is from Mopar. Has anyone tried this as a replacement?
I got the Mopar gasket first and then I bought a Felpro for comparison. Fel pro hands down. Made the Mopar gasket look like trash. Also get an aluminum plate. You won't have to bother with it again. It's worth it for a piece of mind.

Either the Hughes Engine kit or you can get the plate and bolts from that guy who laser cuts them on Speed Freaks/Ebay. It's probably cheaper to get the Hughes complete kit. But I went the other route and pieced mine together. I also did the valve cover gaskets and all coolant hoses while I was at it.
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 07-27-2013, 11:36 AM   #8
Billyjoebob007
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Heres a few handy threads:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/h...m-kit-1362188/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/f...asket-1317691/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/p...e-pics-233448/

Heres the huges kit:

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...p?partid=27091

The intake gaskets that come with it are junk though, so i bought a set of edelbrock 7277
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Unread 07-28-2013, 10:23 AM   #9
sebian
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Depending on the year of your ZJ, you might have an EGR valve assembly on it. When I did my plenum a year ago, I also replaced the EGR valve and the oil pressure sending unit, since I was in that area. And like Polka, I changed my heater hoses, and that short coolant bypass hose, as a preventative measure.

To stay organized, I got a few strips of cardboard and punched my bolts into it, and labeled them.

Also ended up replacing the OEM coolant temp sensors as they were causalities of taking things apart.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 10:56 AM   #10
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebian View Post

To stay organized, I got a few strips of cardboard and punched my bolts into it, and labeled them.
.
I used the wife's muffin tin and labelled it with a sharpie.
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1998 5.9
Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 07-28-2013, 01:36 PM   #11
sebian
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I used the wife's muffin tin and labelled it with a sharpie.
Just remember that next time she bakes muffins and they taste like dirty motor oil and mud, or I should say... Taste like Jeep.
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List of parts not replaced yet:
...
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Unread 07-28-2013, 02:31 PM   #12
PolkaPower
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Just remember that next time she bakes muffins and they taste like dirty motor oil and mud, or I should say... Taste like Jeep.
Yea already got yelled at. "May as well just keep it now" hahahaha
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 07-28-2013, 03:55 PM   #13
AnotherRedZj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebian View Post

To stay organized, I got a few strips of cardboard and punched my bolts into it, and labeled them.
^^^^^I use this trick all the time. Draw a lil outline of the part and stick the bolts through where they go!
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Unread 07-28-2013, 05:48 PM   #14
Candymancan
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I just took pictures of every bolt I took out and where it went then took pics of every plug and vacuum hose I removed.. lol worked pretty good actually.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 07:34 PM   #15
AnotherRedZj
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I just took pictures of every bolt I took out and where it went then took pics of every plug and vacuum hose I removed.. lol worked pretty good actually.

I did that too with the wires and vacuum lines but labeled them as the came off with blue painters tape also. The tape made it easy to see if something was missed on install!
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