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Unread 08-12-2009, 02:16 PM   #16
xjhavens
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might be a t stat issue...i would change it..there really cheap..and there is a gasket on the housing also that might be leaking.

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Unread 08-12-2009, 04:15 PM   #17
97DCZJ
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I was thinking about that earlier, except i just replaced the t stat and gasket about 3-4 weeks ago. and it's leaking from right behind the upper part of the water pump housing
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Unread 08-12-2009, 11:16 PM   #18
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Jarhead, I got no problem with better safe, than sorry and it is damn good advice too ...

I am a bit of a hard head and for some reason like a marine, I like to see how far I can wander out on the edge of a cliff just for sh*t and giggles and to live and learn ...

So I would like to say to everybody here, don't try it and I will let you know, when I have pushed the envelope too far ...

P.S. Jarhead if you have, or do serve our country, then much respect Warrior/soldier ...

Many thanks dawg ...
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Unread 08-12-2009, 11:50 PM   #19
97DCZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phitmein View Post
Jarhead, I got no problem with better safe, than sorry and it is damn good advice too ...

I am a bit of a hard head and for some reason like a marine, I like to see how far I can wander out on the edge of a cliff just for sh*t and giggles and to live and learn ...

So I would like to say to everybody here, don't try it and I will let you know, when I have pushed the envelope too far ...

P.S. Jarhead if you have, or do serve our country, then much respect Warrior/soldier ...

Many thanks dawg ...
that was nice...but

, please

thanks
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(Sold) 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited: V8 5.2L, 2" BB, 31" Dick Cepeks.
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Unread 08-13-2009, 01:32 AM   #20
phitmein
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Jeeze, thanks dawg ... You are so right ...

Sorry, I forgot that I have 30 + years experience of working on Jaguar's, Triumph's, MG's, Austins,Fiat's, Alfa's and etc. and so on, and on ...

I bow to you my master here Sir ...

And, don't even get me started on the muscle car that I have owned ...
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Unread 08-13-2009, 01:55 AM   #21
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Respect is earned ...

And If he is, a Marine then he has my highest respect here ...

Have you ever killed for your neighbors or your country or just for your family ???

I have ...

You are 19 years old and I am 52 years old ...

Please, go ahead and maybe try to rethink this again here Sir ...
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Unread 08-13-2009, 10:35 PM   #22
97DCZJ
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ok...calm down...

i respect all marine/army/navy soldiers, but that's not on this topic. I keep seeing new responses and getting excited thinking people are helping me out..


anyway.
I replaced the seal on the water pump, took 2 hours, and stopped that leak. after driving it, I saw it was leaking from the bypass hose. Replaced that as well, old one had a nice gash from being so old. Took 2 hours as well. Drove it around, and started over heating. I flushed the radiator and added brand new anti freeze in. Let it sit for a little, and on my way to my friends house, started overheating to 230. Pulled over, and there wasn't a single leak, but it was boiling through the overflow tank. Let it sat for a little and removed the rad cap. It was coming out, so there was fluid in the radiator.
I was told that I need to let the truck run with the rad cap off, and if it either bubbles, shoots out, or smells like exhaust, I have a blown head gasket. If that is the case, I'm debating on actually getting that fixed depending on the price. (Anyone have an estimate on that? I know it's expensive, but this motor is still running strong, and I've dumped too much money in it to just get rid of it that quick).

So all in all, I need some opinions? What do you all think could be causing this? Could it also be the t-stat is getting stuck? I did just replace it about a month ago, but I guess it could've gone bad that quick. as I stated in my OP, the truck did overheat to over 260 with the check gauges light flashing, and then cooled down, then overheated again. So my truck has went from cool to hot to cool at least 4-6 times in the past 3 days. I have a feeling it might have a blown head gasket at this point. 215000 miles...stock motor

helpp please
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1997 Grand Cherokee Orvis: V8 5.2L, stock.
(Sold) 1998 Cherokee Sport: 4.0L I6, Stock.
(Sold) 1990 Cherokee: 4.0L I6, 4.5" Lift, 33" BFG's.
(Sold) 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited: V8 5.2L, 2" BB, 31" Dick Cepeks.
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Unread 08-13-2009, 10:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96DCZJ View Post
ok...calm down...

i respect all marine/army/navy soldiers, but that's not on this topic. I keep seeing new responses and getting excited thinking people are helping me out..


anyway.
I replaced the seal on the water pump, took 2 hours, and stopped that leak. after driving it, I saw it was leaking from the bypass hose. Replaced that as well, old one had a nice gash from being so old. Took 2 hours as well. Drove it around, and started over heating. I flushed the radiator and added brand new anti freeze in. Let it sit for a little, and on my way to my friends house, started overheating to 230. Pulled over, and there wasn't a single leak, but it was boiling through the overflow tank. Let it sat for a little and removed the rad cap. It was coming out, so there was fluid in the radiator.
I was told that I need to let the truck run with the rad cap off, and if it either bubbles, shoots out, or smells like exhaust, I have a blown head gasket. If that is the case, I'm debating on actually getting that fixed depending on the price. (Anyone have an estimate on that? I know it's expensive, but this motor is still running strong, and I've dumped too much money in it to just get rid of it that quick).

So all in all, I need some opinions? What do you all think could be causing this? Could it also be the t-stat is getting stuck? I did just replace it about a month ago, but I guess it could've gone bad that quick. as I stated in my OP, the truck did overheat to over 260 with the check gauges light flashing, and then cooled down, then overheated again. So my truck has went from cool to hot to cool at least 4-6 times in the past 3 days. I have a feeling it might have a blown head gasket at this point. 215000 miles...stock motor

helpp please
i used a Upper cyclinder Gasket kit from fel-pro i think it was like $150+ then paid a shop $400 to put it on worth it

it takes at least 5-8 hrs of labor.
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Unread 08-13-2009, 10:58 PM   #24
Virmagicus
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Did you by any chance use bars stop leak or any other kind of leak stopper?
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Unread 08-13-2009, 11:01 PM   #25
97DCZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xJoshxx View Post
i used a Upper cyclinder Gasket kit from fel-pro i think it was like $150+ then paid a shop $400 to put it on worth it

it takes at least 5-8 hrs of labor.
So around 600?
That's not horrible. I think I'd pay $600 to get it fixed, instead of selling my baby for maybe not even 2500, then have to go through the pain of saving up and working my *** off to buy another truck and lift it. Especially considering this motor doesn't knock or anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by virmagicus View Post
Did you by any chance use bars stop leak or any other kind of leak stopper?
nahh just sealed it with regular sealer.
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(Sold) 1990 Cherokee: 4.0L I6, 4.5" Lift, 33" BFG's.
(Sold) 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited: V8 5.2L, 2" BB, 31" Dick Cepeks.
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Unread 08-13-2009, 11:22 PM   #26
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96DCZJ View Post
I was thinking about that earlier, except i just replaced the t stat and gasket about 3-4 weeks ago. and it's leaking from right behind the upper part of the water pump housing
Did you ever install a new by-pass hose ? hard to see , harder to get at , very common . It's also the area your describing . The gasket is another good possibility , not quite so common IMO .
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Unread 08-14-2009, 05:40 AM   #27
97DCZJ
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Did you ever install a new by-pass hose ? hard to see , harder to get at , very common . It's also the area your describing . The gasket is another good possibility , not quite so common IMO .
That's what was leaking too..the bypass hose. and yes I did change that. If you read my last post, I said the old one had a gash. And I also changed the gasket on the water pump and it did completely stop leaking, but it still overheats. I'm going to change the t-stat and maybe that'll do something.
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1997 Grand Cherokee Orvis: V8 5.2L, stock.
(Sold) 1998 Cherokee Sport: 4.0L I6, Stock.
(Sold) 1990 Cherokee: 4.0L I6, 4.5" Lift, 33" BFG's.
(Sold) 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited: V8 5.2L, 2" BB, 31" Dick Cepeks.
(Sold) 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo: Build Thread; V8 4.7L, Stock.
(Sold) 1996 Grand Cherokee Laredo: Build Thread; V8 5.2L ,3.5" lift, 32" Tires
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Unread 08-14-2009, 08:22 AM   #28
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96DCZJ View Post
That's what was leaking too..the bypass hose. and yes I did change that. If you read my last post, I said the old one had a gash. And I also changed the gasket on the water pump and it did completely stop leaking, but it still overheats. I'm going to change the t-stat and maybe that'll do something.
Well , I have to admit , when I started reading about who killed who and how many scars were had on a jeep forum , I may have skipped a little to try and find the topic again

Back to the program

You are doing the right thing , when you over heat , and depending on what T-stat you installed , it may very well be stuck . When cold , rad cap off , start it up and see if circulation occurs immediately , if not , let things warm up until it does . Keep an eye on the guage . If it starts to go above 220ish and still not open (no circulation), it's stuck closed . This test would tell you if the t-stat is working easy enogh . I prefer to drain 1/2 gallon so the expansion doesn't overflow everywhere and you get the see the circulation better . Of course , if you see bubbles , you already been told what that is .



The engine is steel block-steel head , pretty tough . You might get lucky and no damage done . But to be on the safe side , if the t-stat doesn't fix anything , do a compression test before ripping it down .
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Unread 08-14-2009, 03:19 PM   #29
97DCZJ
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Sooo I replaced the t-stat, filled the rad, and started it up. I let it run for a little bit, and medium sized bubbles were forming, but could just be air pockets from when I poured in the antifreeze. idle'd it until it hit 180ish then drove it around the block twice. it went to 210, then to 220. came home, sprayed the HELL out of my radiator, tried to get as much dirt out as possible thinking maybe there isn't enough airflow. I went to go test drive it again, and left the house with the temp at around 160. I didnt hit 210 until I drove more than twice the distance I did prior where it hit 210 pretty quick. It did go higher than 210 though. By the time I came back home, (approx. 3 min after it hit 210), it was at around 220. So, the dirt in the rad was an effect, so I think this weekend I'll remove the radiator and clean the back of it out.

The dipstick didn't have any water or milky substances on it, and the bubbles that formed in the rad didn't really smell like exaust. Hoping the reason of the overheating is just because of the dirt in the radiator. At least I can take my truck short distances for now
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1997 Grand Cherokee Orvis: V8 5.2L, stock.
(Sold) 1998 Cherokee Sport: 4.0L I6, Stock.
(Sold) 1990 Cherokee: 4.0L I6, 4.5" Lift, 33" BFG's.
(Sold) 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited: V8 5.2L, 2" BB, 31" Dick Cepeks.
(Sold) 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo: Build Thread; V8 4.7L, Stock.
(Sold) 1996 Grand Cherokee Laredo: Build Thread; V8 5.2L ,3.5" lift, 32" Tires
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Unread 08-14-2009, 09:44 PM   #30
comptiger5000
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My suggestion would be to pull the rad cap, get in the Jeep, run it up to 2000 - 2500 rpm for about 1-2 minutes, then idle it back and see if you still have bubbles. The higher RPMs will clear the air from the system better.
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