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please help...stalling issues

960 views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  Jonny Jeep 
#1 ·
i have a 96 zj and i have just recently (6 months ago) put a new camshaft, distributor, coil, crank sensor, throttle position sensor, water pump and gasket, thermostat and gasket, head gasket, valve cover gasket, lifters rods, timing gears and chain, and new muffler.
since i have done all of this i have nothing but trouble. since the day of firing her back up the check engine light is on. reading misfire. but as i have checked doesn't seem to be misfiring. i put cylinder #1 at top dead center and popped off the distributor cap and the rotor button is pointing at cylinder 1 dead nut. so as far as i can tell it is not misfiring. (bare in mind i'm a back yard taught myself mechanic)
as far as the stalling issues go
i can start the jeep as long as it is cold (aka hasn't been run in hours)
it will idle fine and run all day if the motor would stay cold.
once i get to running temp is where i get the problem
but it only happens when stopping or slowing down (traffic stop lights or signs in park neutral or drive) the only way to keep this from occuring is to hold one foot on the brake and one on the gas while slowing and keep the rpm about 1000 to 1200. sometimes it will start right back after stalling but sometimes it will not and will take some time. i have pulled the throttle body and cleaned it and the sensors and checked them all and they are good. i need some ideas or a solution. i love my zj and have put lots of time and effort into this one i'm trying to make it last... please help
 
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#2 ·
OBDII Scanner?

96 is the first year of OBDII. Verify that your ZJ has the connector and that it hasn't been messed with then buy yourself a scanner. If you figured out all the stuff in your original post then you can figure out OBDII.

Also, I'm a big fan of electronic factory service manuals. They don't answer all the questions, but they do answer a lot of them and a searchable PDF can be bought on ebay. Mine was less than $30 for my '93.

Ron
 
#6 ·
1 part is probably the torque converter clutch staying locked. possibly your stalling issue. if it's not unlocking when you're coming to a stop it will bog the engine down and stall.
2, you NEED to have your fuel synch set at a dealer with the proper drbiii scan tool when you remove the distributor. some people get lucky and the synch is close, but there's no way of knowing. i would bet on this being part or the whole of your poor running and misfire condition.
 
#7 ·
2, you NEED to have your fuel synch set at a dealer with the proper drbiii scan tool when you remove the distributor. some people get lucky and the synch is close, but there's no way of knowing.
ratmonkey would you mind explaining what setting the fuel synch is all about? I need to replace my distributor soon (squeaky bearing) and was planning on just pulling it and putting in the new one. My Haynes (I know, I know...) doesn't mention anything about setting the fuel sync. Thanks...
 
#8 ·
yes i have never heard of this either and would like to know what i can do to correct the problem myself. or if there is a way that i can check it .. thanx .. i also did a stall test on tthe torque converter last night and it seemed fine in drive it was about 2000 rpm and reverse was about 1750rpm. so to me it seems fine.
 
#10 ·
The cam sensor controls the point at which the fuel injectors open. Rather, it verifies cam position for the fuel timing table.
The window of adjustability is extremely small and the only way to even see where it is positioned is with the scan tool. If you are off a couple degrees from the window (which is 2-4*wide iirc) you won't be spraying fuel at the right time during intake valve opening and won't get the proper mixture.

The fsm has the procedure for setting the dist close, then you have to start it and twist the dist very slightly while watching the scanner read out.
 
#11 ·
so i got my new distributor and installed it and reset the computer after cranking it i started getting a code 11 which is no distributor reference signal detected during engine cranking.. does this just me i need to ride the jeep for a while so it can relearn itself?
 
#13 ·
The distributor on the 4.0 has a mounting fork which holds it in place. There is no need to get fuel sync checked by a dealer as it is handled by the computer, as described in the 96 ZJ FSM. Fuel sync needs to be set on the 5.2 as it has a separate hold down clamp.

Code 11 can refer to CKP OR CMP sensors but usually refers to a crank position sensor problem.
No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking should trip code 54.

On autos the crank sensor should be fitted with a little paper gasket so it sits in the correct location. If you don't have that in place it could be the cause of your code.
 
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