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Unread 07-31-2013, 05:49 PM   #1
coralman
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pictorial on driver door lock motor replace.

Gotta do this on the weekend, so I figured I'd ask if one would be useful. If not, just throwing the damn thing in.

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Unread 07-31-2013, 06:41 PM   #2
ZeeJay1997
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I need to replace mine, then I would have to get my replacement keys cut and FOB programmed.

Nice new avatar. It wouldnt be that way if you hadnt lurked and ate popcorn, figuring out ways to empty your wallet.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 07:49 PM   #3
coralman
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Thanks! If it wasn't the jeep it would be something else,like 245 to get a molar pulled today. That had me ready to punch someone. I'm just doing the lockmotor/latch assembly,no keys involved. Panel, motor plug, 4rods, 3 screws. Just thoughtit would be humorous pics of chewed up hands working in a small place. Did one at the jy the other day so I could get at the alarm disarm switch on the back of the lock cylinder. In case I want to alarm it one day.

Was troubleshooting it last weekend and the next morning window wouldn't work. Did the Fonz fix on that and has worked since then. Yeah,"popcorn dude" served its purpose well.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 08:15 PM   #4
Uniblurb
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Wait to you get some $800-$900 crowns coralman and we'll be looking for your empty wallet selling on ebay!

Sure I'd like to see a pictorial/write-up on the door lock/actuator replacement! I already know how to do it but I'm sure it would be helpful. I need to replace the one on my passenger rear door which is driving me nuts!

I've also heard you can test one with a 12V drill battery at the jy to see if it's good/bad before you remove it. That's something I'd like to see if it works or not since will have to go after one at the price the dealers charge.

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Unread 07-31-2013, 08:46 PM   #5
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I'm past the crown mentality,lol. Yeah you could test it that way. There are only two wires and the switch just reverses polarity to the motor. Its a shaded pole motor I guess. I half and half most parts I get for the jeep. This time it fell on the dealer half. Gave me a chance to talk to my kansas bud and see how his new kid was doing. Most times he is cheaper than ebay. He knows I'm gonna use him for OE so he treats me well. Its cyclic, run em up, pay em down. Still way cheaper than a new vehicle payment though!
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Unread 07-31-2013, 09:12 PM   #6
JasonStebbins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
I'm past the crown mentality,lol. Yeah you could test it that way. There are only two wires and the switch just reverses polarity to the motor. Its a shaded pole motor I guess. I half and half most parts I get for the jeep. This time it fell on the dealer half. Gave me a chance to talk to my kansas bud and see how his new kid was doing. Most times he is cheaper than ebay. He knows I'm gonna use him for OE so he treats me well. Its cyclic, run em up, pay em down. Still way cheaper than a new vehicle payment though!
We can never have too many write-ups on the forum. And that's definitely one I haven't seen.

Repairs > Payments
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Unread 07-31-2013, 09:31 PM   #7
eagsc7
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For me, Its Repairs = Payments.

Also, Where's the Pics and Writeup?
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Unread 07-31-2013, 11:17 PM   #8
xcaliber81
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I just replaced most of my actuators and I swapped all my black handles to the limited chrome ones also.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 03:35 AM   #9
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Write up coming next weekend, part should be here by then. Thanks for reminding me xcaliber about the chrome handles, I also have 4 that need to go in. I'll also show what pins to use on the door module to hook up puddle lights if you don't have them in the door panel.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 08:37 AM   #10
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See i have those too but the wiring stops at the wiring to the door, that would be sweet I want those to work.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 05:55 PM   #11
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X, remember that I have a 98 so I'm not sure that the wiring is the same. Korea would know if the diagrams are similar but haven't seen him in awhile. Verify before you go to rewiring.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 06:21 PM   #12
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Oh for sure however I have a 93 limited harness just sitting around lmao yes the inside harness lol.
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Unread 08-03-2013, 02:37 PM   #13
coralman
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Got it done this weekend .
latch-002.jpg latch-004.jpg

latch-005.jpg
Mopar latch assy. Got a bag of these off ebay. Knew it wouldn't be the last time I had a door panel off.

latch-006.jpg latch-007.jpg

latch-008.jpg latch-009.jpg

Take the 4 attaching screws out of the panel. Make sure your window is all the way up. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Starting at the bottom or sides pry the panel out to release the plastic panel clips. Disconnect the two plugs from the driver door module. Be careful when doing this as the release tabs on the plugs break without much effort.

latch-012.jpg latch-020.jpg

latch-021.jpg

Now to removing the latch. The three screws are T30 torx. The oblong slot is the location of the latch adjustment screw. You can barely see it in the pic. I marked the edges of the screw on the door with blue tape just as a reference.
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Unread 08-03-2013, 03:21 PM   #14
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latch-030.jpg latch-033.jpg

latch-027.jpg

Disconnect the lock motor plug again being careful with release catch. If you don't see this plug look for the tag that says "lock motor" ,lol. If you were having problems and wanted to verify you had power to the plug you would backprobe the plug before any of this proceedure with a testlight and work the lock switch both directions. It should light. Mine did so I assumed it was a bad motor or jammed lock mechanism.

latch-004.jpg latch-016.jpg

latch-022.jpg latch-034.jpg

You can see in the pic previously posted that the latch/lock has 4 rods attached to it. The next pic shows the clip style that attaches the rods. To disconnect the rods push the two snap arms off the rod then pull the rod out of the clip. To install put the rod in the hole in the clip then snap the arms portion back onto the rod. Sounds easy right? Well yes and no. The two arm clips at the top of the first pic are easy peasy. The bottom two in the pic, green and orange, not so much. If you got big hands, may the gods be with you. They come off fairly quickly. To get them back on you will have to tilt the assy. back and forth, cocking it around the window channel{ for the green one especially} until get the rods back in the holes. Do the two closest to the outside of the door first when assembling.

With all the rods attached, you have to adjust the latch. The fsm doesn't mention this but an insert packaged with the new latch does. Remember the oblong slot at the beginning? The adjustment screw is visable in that slot. Operate the door handle push button several times. Insert a 5/32 allen wrench in the screw and tighten. Latch is adjusted. The screw head was pretty close to the blue tape indicators I had put on earlier.
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Unread 08-03-2013, 04:14 PM   #15
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Now to the puddle lights. If you have a Laredo, on the front doors you have a red reflector. On the Limiteds they have a light housing that energizes when the door is opened. Snag a couple of housings or panels from a limited.This is how you hook them up. First lets look at the DDM plug. If I run across a gutted ZJ I'll always cut a few plugs off at a time,usually off limiteds.

ddm-pinout_360x129.jpg

Looking at the pinout the two cavities we need to use are #7 black ground, and cavity#11 pink muxcourtesy lamp driver. I didn't want to swap out the whole harness so I'll pull the pink wire out of the limited plug and later on when I get some mopar crimps and crimping tool cut the insulation back on the black wire and crimp and solder a tap off to run to the light. Same for the pink.

terminal-removal-003.jpg terminal-removal-004.jpg

terminal-removal-005.jpg

On my cutoff plug there is a yellow retaining clip that needs to be removed so we can get the pink wire out. Just pry the locks at the ends and middle up a little and it will come off. Move the other wires out of the way of the solid pink one.

terminal-removal-006.jpg terminal-removal-001.jpg

terminal-removal-002.jpg

Next to release the pink wire from the connector we have to disable the lock inside the connector. I have a set of pick tools but a small flat watchmakers screwdriver will work. Insert the pick tool from the front. You'll see an open portion to the cavity, not the terminal itself. Thats where the tool goes. Insert it untill you feel it stop. Position the tool aginst the flat of the connector and with alittle forward pressure pry up. The wire should pull out from the rear. It may take you a couple of tries but it will release.

latch-038.jpg latch-039.jpg

Insert the pink wire into your connector in the same orientation and cavity and you have established the power wire to the light. Crimp and solder,heatshrink the pink and black wires to the light and you now have puddle lights. If you want to check before soldering put one end of your testlight to ground and the other end to the pink wire . If it lights with the door open you are good to go.
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