Parking brake won't hold in drive but holds strong in reverse - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
APD
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Parking brake won't hold in drive but holds strong in reverse

does anyone have a fix for this situation? i've replaced the pads and took an inch and a half out of the cable forward of the tension rod but still can't get it to hold. the star adjustments are pretty tight since it was a tight fit getting the rotor back on. i can pretty much lock up the rears at any speed in reverse with the ebrake but in drive i have very little response at idle, which means i have already failed my safety inspection. any thoughts on a fix or do i just need to search harder for an inspection shop that will pass me.

thanks in advance

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post #2 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 12:24 PM
sparkeep
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Your parking brake is to hold the jeep in NEUTRAL or PARK. Not for Drive or Reverse.

2005 Impact Orange Rubicon
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post #3 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
APD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkeep View Post
Your parking brake is to hold the jeep in NEUTRAL or PARK. Not for Drive or Reverse.
i agree but tell that to the state inspections folks. their expectation is for it to hold at idle or up to 1200rpm's, whichever comes first on your individual vehicle.
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post #4 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 12:45 PM
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"Burn it in" - I had to do this last week after replacing the shoes.

Bring the Jeep up to about 10mph, and carefully pull the handle to heat it up. You might have to do this a couple times. Make sure you let it cool for about 50-10 minutes after each warmup.

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post #5 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 12:59 PM
CatSplat
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Check the brake actuator arms. The cable hooks onto a two-piece metal arm that "scissors" when tension is applied to the cable. The two pieces are connected by a pin-hole joint that has a habit of rusting solid with age and caused the exact same symptom in my Jeep (e-brake only working in reverse). I hammered mine until they unfroze enough to remove from the brake assembly and then wire-wheeled them back into rust-free condition, e-brake problem solved. You may need to readjust your e-brakes afterwards.

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post #6 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 02:52 PM
LordHobbit
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Make sure the star wheel adjuster has not been installed backwards.

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post #7 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APD View Post
i agree but tell that to the state inspections folks. their expectation is for it to hold at idle or up to 1200rpm's, whichever comes first on your individual vehicle.
Just going to say that!

I have had this issue too, but the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. I think I'll try the above.

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post #8 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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catsplat,

my drivers side was rusted solid. i used some pb break and a standard screw driver to split the two apart. after about 30 min of playing with it i got it free and the pads back on. the next time i can get the kid to take a nap i'll be out there putting the rest together and testing it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LordHobbit View Post
Make sure the star wheel adjuster has not been installed backwards.
this maybe a dumb question but how do you know if there on backwards and what would this cause? i was assuming that as long as i knew which way to turn the the star i'd be ok.

thanks guys
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post #9 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 03:28 PM
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If you can't see it through the adjustment hole in the backing plate, you have it backwards.

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"Duh! Big RED Jeep!!!"

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post #10 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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i'm having a real hard time getting the rotor back on over the new ebrake pads. i it all looks lined up right until you start to slide on the rotor and then it becomes obvious that something is off. any tips for lining them up a little better?
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 04:22 PM
shocklee17
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spin the adjustment down screw to allow for more play. works the same as any drum brake. When you put new ones on you have to adjust for the added thinkness of the new shoes. You should have done that before you put it all back together then the rotors would slide right on then you could adjust it tight.
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post #12 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 05:00 PM
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APD View Post
i agree but tell that to the state inspections folks. their expectation is for it to hold at idle or up to 1200rpm's, whichever comes first on your individual vehicle.
If your parking brake hold the Jeep in "N" on a slope it's good,like stated not ment to hold while in gear and the way it is ment to work right from the factory.Just remember the parking brake is smaller then the rear brakes on a Goe Metro,will be very easy for a Jeep to over power in gear.


Oh and why it hold better when trying "R" is how the actuator pushes on the shoes,no way to change that.

'02 Liberty sitting on 35" tires,HP44,RockJock60,and AtlasII t-case
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post #13 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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the adjuster was backed all the way off but i found my issue. i had both pads seated on the rib of the dust shield, which held them off by 1/4". i've fiddled with this stuff for days now and finally got it together. i'll test drive it later and see but i'm feeling good about it.

thanks for the help
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post #14 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 06:49 PM
steelstr45
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I think you need a new inspection station. How can they have such a retarded rule? Every car produces different torque at 1200rpm, so how can they expect a e-brake, which is designed for neutral, to hold on every car?
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post #15 of 20 Old 06-08-2010, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelstr45 View Post
I think you need a new inspection station. How can they have such a retarded rule? Every car produces different torque at 1200rpm, so how can they expect a e-brake, which is designed for neutral, to hold on every car?
agreed but then again we are lovingly called utards here in the beehive state.

as of an hour ago i just passed inspection. the salt on the roads here really does a number on metal. i'll be lubing up those cams/actuators every time i pull the rotors.

thanks again
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