So I have a 98' ZJ with the D44A annd as I was driving a couple days ago I kept hearing a rattle coming from my rear driver tire area. So I investigated the noise and found my parking brake cable (ring??) wasnt attached at all to my brakes.
I took apart my rear brakes and found to my surprise what LOOKED like a chewed up wheel cylinder & a small piece of the shoe. Other than that there is nothing left.
So my question is what parts do I need to do a full rebuild on the e brake??
How do you adjust the parking brake? Changed the shoes and drums on my '94 4.0 and even with the bottom adjuster loose there's rubbing on the drums and the brake light is on now. It wasn't on before the brake job but I had to do it because the person I got the Jeep from was running with loose lug nuts and the holes in the drums were out-of-round. (Thought it was just a bent rim on passenger side.) I've got the back end of the cable and all hardware soaking in penetrating fluid right now....
The emergency brake is adjusted with that #17 thing through the rear of the back plate. Close the adjuster until the shoes don't hit the drum part, then turn the adjuster until you hear it start to rub. The emergency brake adjusts itself after that. (Self adjusting system) The springs and all the hardware comes as a package in a rebuild kit you can get from any part store.
The brake light coming on is telling you that the proportional switch is not sensing the correct brake fluid pressure. Bleed or flush the system to get the air out. A flush will replace all of the fluid and restore the brakes to like new feel. Contaminated fluid contains moisture that gets in there over time and causes the brakes to feel spongy.
I have the "#17 thing" adjusted all the way in on both sides and still have rub. I'm thinking maybe at some point the cable was adjusted (tightened) and maybe now that I have new shoes and drums I need to loosen it up a bit. Where are the parts numbered 10, 11 and 12 located and how do they work for adjustment?
#10 is the rubber access cover in the back plate
The other 2 are mounted in the bracket by the adjuster. You can open the other wheel to check how it's mounted. That is the self adjuster mechanism.
When the vehicle goes into reverse this mechanism will automatically turn the adjuster as the drum pads wear down.
I've thought about taking that stupid adjuster out because how could the pads possibly wear out if the vehicle isn't moving when the E brakes are applied.
The only draw back is that the drum will build up alot of rust if it's not used.
Okay. Having them at the top of the diagram made it a bit confusing. So I pulled the wheels and drums and ran the adjusters in (again!) then out just until they were no longer loose. Re-centered the whole assembly, put the drums back on and still have a little rub at the top. No way I can adjust the parking brake cable out any - nut is welded in place from time and rust. Brake light was out when I started her up, but now it's and on-and-off thing. Going to bleed the brakes next...
The brake section of the FSM is too large to post but Morris 4x4 has a "knowledge Base" section that you can view online that covers most of the FSM.
Look up the brake section for all of the adjustments and how to's,,,
If your not doing a 100% flush you don't need a scanner. The scanner that does the ABS is a more expensive model but they do sell models just for the ABS.
Doing a flush as you would do on a non ABS will get 99% of the old fluid out. If your just replacing calipers, normal bleeding will get the job done.
Here's another website that explains the system you have, and if you go to their home page you can cruise though a whole range off topics.
According to the application chart mine is a Teves Mark 4. They don't have a page with info on it but they'll happily sell me some! Lol Thanks for the link and the help. I would like to find a full shop service manual for my jeep. Anyone know where I can find one?