[JeepSam]

Hi there,
New to the forums and new to Jeeps. My wife and I recently purchased a 2001 Grand Cherokee to tow our boat (needed the V8) The parking brake handle goes all the way up with little effect on it's intended function. I'd like to tighten it, but found that there is no cable adjustment in the passenger compartment, and a somewhat complex arrangement at the rear wheels.

I've done some searches in the Forums to help with this but most of the info seems to be for older Jeeps, what is applicable to mine?

Also, the truck has a major shimmy problem under light-medium braking that I can only attribute to warped rotors. The phenomenom is much more pronounced when towing afore mentioned boat. Further reading in these forums tells me that the factory rotors suck. Should I really look into the few hundred $$'s to replace all 4 rotors and pads all the way around? If so, should I plan to tighten the parking brake at that time?

Thanks in advance for all the replies.

Sam

[DKL1]

Sam,
I recently replaced the rear rotors and pads on my 96 Laredo 4.0 (that I bought to tow our boat as well!) and to my surprise found that there are actually drum brakes baack there as well. In case you were not aware, that is the parking brake system! One of the shoes was worn completely down to metal! I still haven't replaced them yet but intend to soon...
Dale

PS: I have 226K miles on mine and just bought it this past summer from the original owner. It too had the pulsating rotors and I got lucky at guessing it was mostly coming from the rear end. Still has a small amount of pulse, but can live with it until I change out the front ones.

[greasefingers]

Man it really burns me up DC would ignore this problem for over a decade

[JeepSam]

Thanks for the input. I've been quoted a price of $120 + $45 shipping for 4 slotted/cross drilled rotors. They aren't Brembo's, but they have to be better than stock. The same person wants $140 for ceramic pads, I think I'll pass and find some organics at my local auto parts store.

I pulled a rear wheel last night and found the drum assembly, but I'm at a loss for figuring out how to get in there. I guess I'll keep looking around.

I did find a TSB related to the shimmy issue though, it recommends replacing both the calipers and rotors up front....dunno if I want to do the calipers yet, kinda pricey.

Sam

[Meerkat]

Sam,
The parking brakes are much simpler than you might think.
First, there is a yoke up in the tunnel beside the TC. It's kind of a complicated looking affair with a long threaded shaft and a bar that doubles back on itself like a 'J'. This is where you adjust the parking brake. First, you are going to want to make sure your brake shoes are in good shape and properly set. If you have ever worked on regular drum brakes, these guys are very similar, but without the hydraulics. The consist of a lever that sticks through the backing plate, attached to the cable that goes to the yoke, which is attached to the parking brake handle inside your Jeep. In order to remove your rear brake rotor you are going to have to remove the wheel. Look on the back of the backing plate towards the bottom, you will see an oval rubber plug. Pop it out. Inside the hole is a star adjusting wheel just like big brake drums have. You are going to want to make sure the shoes are adjusted all the way in. Use a flat tipped screw driver or brake tool to turn the star adjuster. It is probably going to be really hard to turn since all the lubricant dried up years ago. As you adjust it, use your free hand to rotate the brake rotor, if it starts dragging, you are adjusting the wheel the wrong way and have to turn it the other direction. Once the star is adjusted all the way in, remove your brake caliper and pull the rotor off. The braking surface for the parking brake shoes is the inside of the brake rotor 'tophat'. Make sure the surface inside the drum isn't in really bad shape (if you are reusing the rotor). It doesn't have to be perfect since the parking brake isn't used to stop the vehicle. The brake shoes are pretty easy to remove. Be sure to clean and lubricate the alignment pins and the star wheel threads. Then reassemble. Once everything is back together, adjust the star until the parking brake shoes just start to rub the inside of the drum, then back off the star until the shoes is clear. Once both wheels are done reach inside your Jeep and set the parking brake lever up about 3 clicks, certainly no more than 4 clicks. Crawl under the Jeep near the TC and loosen the locknut on the adjusting yoke. You'll need a wrench to hold the yoke while you turn the adjusting nut in. It will help to spray the threaded rod with penetrating oil beforehand. Adjust it in until it is nice and tight (not too tight). Then tighten the locknut. Proceed to the refridgerator and have yourself a celebratory beer. You are now a parking brake guru!

HTH

[PlatinumZJ]

Originally Posted by JeepSam

Thanks for the input. I've been quoted a price of $120 + $45 shipping for 4 slotted/cross drilled rotors. They aren't Brembo's, but they have to be better than stock. The same person wants $140 for ceramic pads, I think I'll pass and find some organics at my local auto parts store.

I pulled a rear wheel last night and found the drum assembly, but I'm at a loss for figuring out how to get in there. I guess I'll keep looking around.

I did find a TSB related to the shimmy issue though, it recommends replacing both the calipers and rotors up front....dunno if I want to do the calipers yet, kinda pricey.

Sam

NAGCA has a write up on e-brakes at
http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/e-brakeshoereplacement.htm , good luck

[Wayne Harropson]

I had a shimmy problem (i suspected the rear brakes) so I replaced rotors, Ebrake shoes and pads for the rotors, and now the new e brake shoes fail to release when rolling forward. I have to back up to get the brake to release. I changed the rotors again suspecting a poor drum machine surface (which the first new rotor/drums had) and it only improved to a degree of grabbiness. I can only imagine now that the shoes are a bad arc or the springs are weak. The pulsing/shimmy on braking did not go completely away and I, like a prior poster, will probably live with it until I do the front's complete.

I just hope the problem wasn't completely in the front, because none of the parts looked that bad except the ebrake shoes which were heat checked, but worked better than they do now.

The EBrake adjustment is simply the drum brake adjusters inside the Rotor.

[2Grand4s]

I have been driving a 94 Grand with even smaller diameter rotors than your WJ and I never had a warped rotor. I attribute that to crrying a torque wrench with me to the dealer, tire store, or any place else where a lossened wheel lug might occur. I NEVER allow anyone else to tighten the lugs. I let the dealer at my 5 diamond Dailmler dealer do it once and with a 4 foot long breaker bar I split open a socket and was still unable to loosen the lug nut. I assume they are instructed to do this so they get to sell lots of new brakes and rotors at the dealer.