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Unread 07-17-2013, 09:53 AM   #16
esu
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1995 ZJ 
 
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dellis, I always felt it was related to heat. It seemed that as long as I was moving and had good airflow the eng temp was good and no issues. When you stop and idle the temp climbs up and the sputtering starts.
As for head gasket, no oil in the antifreeze and Im not losing antifreeze out the tailpipe.
Was re-reading Zeejays post about the relays as you mention and will swap those around, easy enough to do. Are they located under the hood? Also checking spark and voltage at the injector easy enough also. Now that I can just about make it stall I should be able to check those things easier.

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Unread 07-17-2013, 10:03 AM   #17
esu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingr98 View Post
How high is your temperature going? On my 98, straight up on the temperature gauge is about 210 degrees and mine runs there all day long.

What I am saying is, if your temperature is around 210 degrees, it doesn't seem like radiator flush/thermostat would fix your problem. Although I am sure it is a good maintenance procedure to routinely flush your radiator, I would expect your temp to still run around 210 degrees.
Its going just about straight up so depending on the accuracy of the guage is what it really is. When its near that first hashmark to the left of straight up its fine, the closer to 210 it gets the worse it runs. Hood up it doesnt get near 210. I dont believe either that that the flush will help much but I usually do a tuneup, oil change, rad flush whenever I pick up a used veh like this one. I was probably grasping at straws more than anything else.
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Unread 07-17-2013, 10:19 AM   #18
dellis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esu View Post
dellis, I always felt it was related to heat. It seemed that as long as I was moving and had good airflow the eng temp was good and no issues. When you stop and idle the temp climbs up and the sputtering starts.
As for head gasket, no oil in the antifreeze and Im not losing antifreeze out the tailpipe.
Was re-reading Zeejays post about the relays as you mention and will swap those around, easy enough to do. Are they located under the hood? Also checking spark and voltage at the injector easy enough also. Now that I can just about make it stall I should be able to check those things easier.
Yeah, the relays are in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) between the battery and the coolant reservoir.

One other thought is that your intake air temperature sensor might be giving a really bad reading. These things get clogged up with a lot of goop and grime, and can be easily cleaned with electronics cleaner. But, even with a bad reading I don't have any experience and I haven't read anything that would lead me to believe that this would cause to stall (it would cause bad idle, stumbling in acceleration, etc)
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Unread 07-17-2013, 06:06 PM   #19
dusterdude
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Egr valve?
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Unread 07-17-2013, 06:26 PM   #20
ZeeJay1997
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4.0 doesnt have an EGR

Do you have a leaking exhaust manifold?

Do the key trick and see if any codes are stored.
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Unread 07-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #21
esu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
4.0 doesnt have an EGR

Do you have a leaking exhaust manifold?

Do the key trick and see if any codes are stored.
I just cleaned the battery terminals so I believe I may have cleared the old codes? What is it? On and off 3 times in 5 seconds or something?
Ex manifold not leaking that I could tell.
Tonight I switched the ASD relay with the horn relay but it still stalled after it got hot. By hot I mean just about straight up on the guage, 210 deg.
I have an ODB2 reader, is 95 ODB compliant?
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Unread 07-17-2013, 08:24 PM   #22
dellis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esu View Post
I have an ODB2 reader, is 95 ODB compliant?
95 is OBD1 ...

Just curious, are you planning to do the electrical tests outlined above? And, again, did you clean the throttle body and IAC inlet?
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Unread 07-18-2013, 06:20 AM   #23
esu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dellis View Post
95 is OBD1 ...

Just curious, are you planning to do the electrical tests outlined above? And, again, did you clean the throttle body and IAC inlet?
Sorry yes. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC inlet. Should I completely remove the IAC? Does it need to be reset like the one on my vette?
When it stalled I did test for spark and it did have spark. Working solo its hard to do it all so I was unable to check for 12v at the injectors. That will have to be for tonight maybe.
The other problem is once the hood is open it cools down pretty quick and will then start.
I trying to figure out a way to put a remote fuel pressure guage on so I can monitor that when it stalls. There is a bleeder/schraeder type valve on the fuel rail, I was wondering if I could hook something up to that? Or do I need to T into the regular metal line?
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Unread 07-18-2013, 06:51 AM   #24
dellis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esu View Post
Sorry yes. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC inlet. Should I completely remove the IAC? Does it need to be reset like the one on my vette?
When it stalled I did test for spark and it did have spark. Working solo its hard to do it all so I was unable to check for 12v at the injectors. That will have to be for tonight maybe.
The other problem is once the hood is open it cools down pretty quick and will then start.
I trying to figure out a way to put a remote fuel pressure guage on so I can monitor that when it stalls. There is a bleeder/schraeder type valve on the fuel rail, I was wondering if I could hook something up to that? Or do I need to T into the regular metal line?
Yes, you need to remove the IAC in order to clean the inlet port for it.

The valve on the rail is for connection of a fuel gauge. So, yes, use that.

When I was testing voltages for a random stall once, I ran a wire out of the engine compartment and into the passenger compartment. The way that I probe active circuits is to insert a needle into the back of the connector ... I used a large sewing needle with a thread hole that was large enough to insert a wire into it, and then soldered it. My ground point was up in the center console.
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Unread 07-18-2013, 11:49 AM   #25
Yoda95
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I was having this problem and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) totally fixed it. Had the low RPM sputters, high temp, weird shifting...changed it out in 10 minutes and it all cleared up. You can get one for $20 or less online, probably $40 in the store. I believe it is held on with two T20 torx-head screws, and you want the one with round pin connectors, not the flat blades. Flat blades are for OBD2.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 11:45 AM   #26
esu
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OK, so heres my latest little update. Been away on vacation for 2 weeks but right before I left I did the following.
I drove around with the hood released but locked ( so it was slightly open ) and although as expected the temp actually went to 210 and slightly over on the guage the jeep never bucked or stalled. Not really sure what this means as I was of the belief it was a heat related problem.
Cleaned up all the relays in the PDC, used some contact spray in the PDC also as it had a cracked cover and was filthy inside. DId a bubba repair to the cover for now.
Removed the IAC, filthy beyond words as expected. Cleaned it up and cleaned the inside where it mounts.
Replaced the cap and wires, was going to do it anyway.
Catching up on post vacation chores like the pool and the lawn so will get to the next things on ZEEJAYS list mid week I hope.
Stay tuned,,,,,
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Unread 07-30-2013, 12:07 PM   #27
exmilitary
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Dillis has you on track. Do the 12 things to check if it stalls first then Check the iac valve.
Look for burn marks on the coil.
If all fails then it might be a fuel delivery issue.
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Unread 08-02-2013, 08:13 AM   #28
esu
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OK, went to check the grounds and clean them up last night and I could only find 2, not 3? I found the one in the fender well behind the battery and cleaned that one up. I also found the one on the coil bracket but I absolutely could not find the one by the oil filter. Now even though the ZJ is a 95 the motor is probably an earlier renix, would that explain it?
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Unread 08-02-2013, 08:34 AM   #29
Uniblurb
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Typically there's 3 engine grounds on the 4.0. Two of them are on the coil studs which holds the coil bracket on and 1 on the oil dipstick tube bracket stud/bolt which holds it to the block. If it's an earlier engine not really sure but look for the ones mentioned.

edit: in addition to the engine compartment ground you found next to the battery there should also be one on the back drivers side head stud/nut which attaches to the firewall. Sometimes it attaches from the head stud to the hood on certain models. Good luck.
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Unread 08-02-2013, 10:07 AM   #30
esu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Typically there's 3 engine grounds on the 4.0. Two of them are on the coil studs which holds the coil bracket on and 1 on the oil dipstick tube bracket stud/bolt which holds it to the block. If it's an earlier engine not really sure but look for the ones mentioned.

edit: in addition to the engine compartment ground you found next to the battery there should also be one on the back drivers side head stud/nut which attaches to the firewall. Sometimes it attaches from the head stud to the hood on certain models. Good luck.
I will check for the dipstick tube to see if one is there. Only one of the coil studs ( rear most ) was used for a ground although it did have 2 wires on it. The front one just seemed to be an anchor point for part of the harness. I will also look for the firewall one. Thanks for the tips,,, Cory
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