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Unread 05-01-2012, 08:12 PM   #16
Uniblurb
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I don't have an engine puller and would prefer not to undo the motor mounts/remove the cross member. Or I could just drop the tranny and transfer case like the FSM says you have to in order to change the rear seal.

Actually I did get the pan out tonight. Removed the bottom sway bar links bolts/nuts which wasn't bad at all since I did put anti-seize on them. Removed the top shock nuts and the steering stabilizer bolt/nut since it was also on a bind. But the trick was exactly what JrMechanic said to begin with. I removed the bolt from the track bar and the axle dropped down plenty.

Thanks for all the help and input. I'll let you know how the rear seal goes.

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Unread 05-02-2012, 05:20 AM   #17
hdrocknroll
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Good to here you got the pan out
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[QUOTE=rooster51;13297693] Whats the worse that can happen? Your jeeps already broke.



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Unread 05-02-2012, 09:58 AM   #18
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Thanks and I should really paint it before putting it back on. The angled part which faces forward is rusted pretty bad where the road grit/rocks/salt hits it. I may just spray some black rust reformer on it because these repairs are taking me waay too long.

Forgot to mention right as I was about to finish up a huge thunder storm opened up the sky and soaked me, all my tools, plywood on sawhorses, cardboard I lay on, etc. PITA working on it outside under a canopy attached to the house on gravel to boot. Rushed all my stuff into the garage door 20' away and had to wipe down all my tools. Also had to spray WD-40 into my new ratcheting wrenches where water had gotten into the inside. A garage/shop sure would be nice.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 08:18 PM   #19
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I've had better days as far as replacing the rear seal. Wasn't expecting the rail the length of crank w/14 - 14mm nuts attached to the main bearing caps. It doesn't even show it in the FSM for a 96 4.0 but it's like a shallow trough under the rod caps. So removed it and the rear main bearing. Then was tickled I was able to push the top rear seal out w/o any problems.

But I went to push the new rear seal in and had liquid dish soap on the back side. About 2/3 of the way it seemed like it didn't want to go any further. So I held it against the crank and pushed the end w/a small wooden brush handle. It finally went in but it also sliced about 1 1/4" of the back rubber ridge clear down to the metal. #%&#%, it's screwed! Pushed it back out the opposite way and saw there's no way I can put it back in w/o leaking.

I don't think I bent the metal rod in the seal when pushing it but it's about 1/8" wider dia. than the one I took out. Going back to the dealer for another tomorrow and see if they'll replace it. If not I'll just have to buy another.

Anybody know of any better tricks/tips for getting the top seal in w/o destroying it? I kept in the cool 60 degree basement before taking it out in the 80 degree heat. I've heard some say to freeze it. Sure don't want to, but I'll loosen all the main bearing caps if I have to so the crank will drop down a hair.

Also I know the main bearing cap bolts torque is 80 ft lbs and the pan bolts are 120 inch lbs/10 ft lbs. But does anybody know the torque setting for the nuts on top of the main bearing caps which hold that flat rail on? I can't find it anywhere.

Thanks for any help or advice.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 09:41 PM   #20
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In part 2 he uses a straw to help get the new one in.
I'll see if I can find torque specs


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Unread 05-02-2012, 10:40 PM   #21
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88ft/lbs I believe as to the fsm
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Unread 05-02-2012, 11:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdrocknroll View Post
In part 2 he uses a straw to help get the new one in.
I'll see if I can find torque specs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ft4LhJWOgtk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5o5s...feature=relmfu

Thanks HD and actually I watched both those videos before I even started. Tried the straw trick but didn't really need it since it started fine. Only when I had about 1/3 of the seal to go in did it become hard. Think I'll find some way to shoot the liquid soap up in the groove instead of just putting it on the seal.

I found this by CF Veteran on another Jeep site in doing a search:
"That bracket that you're referring to is the "main bearing cap brace" - it was added in 1996 (I'm not sure why, since the AMC is a seven-main I6 block it's plenty stiff...) but there you go.

Torque the main bearing cap screws to 80 pound-feet, torque the retaining nuts for the brace to 35-40 pound-feet. Apply assembly lube to any bearing you remove or loosen - and be generous with the stuff (cheap insurance.)"

Also saw where others were calling it a "Crank girdle" or "Stud girdle". And lucky me had the 1st 4.0 they put it on! LOL. At least I have the nut torque specs now. I also know you're supposed to torque the main bearing caps in stages; 40-70-80 ft lbs.

Tomorrow's another day and another part.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 11:57 PM   #23
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I knew what you were talking about,because Ive read about it some where, but don't know where, (the main bearing cap brace thing, but looked in the 96 fsm and it doesn't say any thing about that thing,even when removing the crank, nothing in the list of torque specs either.
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[QUOTE=rooster51;13297693] Whats the worse that can happen? Your jeeps already broke.



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Unread 05-03-2012, 09:07 AM   #24
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Yeah, strange they wouldn't include info on the main bearing cap brace in the FSM for 96 4.0.

Below is a good write up of replacing the rear seal. You can see photos of the main bearing cap brace in #5 and #13. Also notice #10 where someone cut the back of the top seal off while installing like I did. With Felpro rear seals they include a little piece of plastic so this doesn't happen and it's not removed until completely in place. It's not included with the Mopar rear seal so I may have to make something like this so I don't cut it again.

http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811
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Unread 05-04-2012, 12:40 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Yeah, strange they wouldn't include info on the main bearing cap brace in the FSM for 96 4.0.

Below is a good write up of replacing the rear seal. You can see photos of the main bearing cap brace in #5 and #13. Also notice #10 where someone cut the back of the top seal off while installing like I did. With Felpro rear seals they include a little piece of plastic so this doesn't happen and it's not removed until completely in place. It's not included with the Mopar rear seal so I may have to make something like this so I don't cut it again.

http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811
Nice write up
Did U get er done , and put back together ?
Going to be doing this myself some time soon.
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Unread 05-04-2012, 01:20 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdrocknroll View Post
Nice write up
Did U get er done , and put back together ?
Going to be doing this myself some time soon.
Naw, didn't get the parts to late in the day and then had to mow grass until dark. While the parts guy I know at the dealer wouldn't/couldn't warranty the rear seal I tore up he sold me another at their cost, $14. Hey, Walmart even gave me a plastic syringe to shoot the soap up in the seal groove.

Probably won't even get it together until next week since waiting on one more part, bought 5 freeze out plugs (2") I'm going to replace while header's off, and may paint the oil pan with rust reformer/gloss-black heat paint tomorrow. Never ending and the constant thunderstorm don't help matters.
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Unread 05-04-2012, 10:42 PM   #27
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I finally got the top rear seal in today. The Mopar seals don't come with this little plastic insert which can be seen below. I ended up making one out of plastic packaging while making the width as wide as the back of the seal channel and about 3/8" long. There is no way I could have installed this top seal w/o damaging it, like I did the 1st one, unless I used this plastic insert to guide it all the way through.

Even after shooting liquid dish soap up into the channel it wanted to stop with about 1 1/4" to go. Shot soap up in the open channel end and it finally went through. Then I pulled the plastic insert out when both ends of the seal were even with the metal.

I just hope there isn't something up in the channel to make the seal stop while pushing it but I ran a thin wire up through ahead of time and couldn't feel anything.







The tip on this insert looks a little wider than what I made and I kept it parallel with the block.

(photos can be seen in section #10 of this thread)
http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811

I didn't put the main bearing cap on yet since want some of the liquid soap to run out of the upper seal/channel. I'll wipe it off as good as I can and have no idea how the anaerobic gasket maker, which goes where the top seal meets the bottom seal, will work if there's soap on it.

So went real well except for the liquid soap dripping on my forehead a non-supporting jack stand falling over and hitting me in the head!
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Unread 05-08-2012, 10:02 AM   #28
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These constant rains/thunderstorms really suck and are slowing me down big time. I did sand the rust off of the oil pan, gave it 3 light coats of Rustoleum high-temp black gloss spray paint, so it looks real purty. Also bought a can of Rustoleum black rust reformer I was going to use 1st. Should have read the directions since it says to not use where temps will exceed 200 degrees so forget that/didn't use it.

Installed the front trans inspection cover, main bearing cap brace, and pan with new gasket yesterday. Had splurged and bought a tube of Mopar anaerobic gasket maker. Put a small amount where the main bearing seal meets the pan gasket and where 2 block pieces come together on the front.

Guess my main concern is that I didn't over-torque the pan gasket. Almost impossible to read/hear clicks for 10 ftlbs (120 ft inches) on my big torque wrench so ended up doing it by feel. Didn't help I got in a hurry with a thunderstorm soaking me as giving the bolts the final torque.

Next step is cooling system. Noticed antifreeze residue on bottom/front of engine so going to install a new water pump. Figure might as well since will have the rad drained to install the 5 freeze out plugs. Also have the power steering unit removed so should be easier.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 12:00 AM   #29
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Just can't believe after all the work in replacing the rear seal it's leaking again! The Mopar seal lasted 1 3/4 years, only about 15K miles, and the oil's leaking right out of the bell housing burning on the exhaust front pipe just like it did before. I did it right so have no idea why it would fail?
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Unread 03-27-2014, 03:42 AM   #30
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Uni, I read this again, as I did a very good while back .

As per the cardboard you were laying on, just talk to anybody that does linoleum flooring and they will give you a remnant piece or sell you one for next to nothing .

Get one that is about 4x8 feet to use to lay on and it has several benefits .

One is that it very slick and you can put it under your ride, lay on your back, grab something under your ride and just slide underneath .

To get back out grab the bumper or something and slide back out and that beats the heck out of wriggling in and out.

It will be very reusable, if it gets oily just mist/wet it with water, then put some dish washing detergent on it, then take a broom and work the soap around some and hose it and the broom off .

You can roll it up and store it very easily or just lay it flat on the garage floor or somewhere else .

I am very proud to say that I came up with that myself a few years back out of need for a better way .

Before that I used Duck Back roofing material which worked good but not as well .

It is just as easy to clean the same way, but I like the linoleum much better because of the sliding factor .
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