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#1 | |
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Junior Member
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oil pan rust
The oil pan on my 1999 WJ 4.7 v8, is covered in rust bubbles. How thick is the pan? and how worried should I be? Is the pan very difficult to replace? any help would be greatly appreciated.
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#2 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Pain in the butt to replace and I wouldn't worry too much about it. Scrape it and spray it on the jeep. Unless the rust is really severe I wouldn't sweat it.
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I don't blame people for their mistakes, but I do expect they pay for them. Ash from Army of Darkness Quote:
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Mine had some bubbles as well. I used an orbital sander where I could, a scraper and hand sand where the orbital would not reach, then used a product called zero rust, followed by some POR15. So far so good...
On the trans pan I had some rust as well. I performed the same procedure and all is good. as a temp fix so it does not get worse, just spray it down with oil. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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friend had this problem on his 99 4.7 wj. by the time we found it, it ended up rusting right through. i would keep an eye on it
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04 wj limited; 4.7L V8, 247> 242hd swap; Hayden auxillary tranny cooler; BFG Rugged Terrain 245/65/17; Moog Up-Country Coil Springs; Monroe Reflex Monotube Shocks; JKS BPE's; Chrome Overland tow hooks; Dynomax Ultraflow catback |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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The pans on the WJ are junk. Another cost saving item from Chrysler. I believe they are about 1/2 the price of the 5.2 pan. After cleaning, spraying, etc. mine finally rusted through. Torch helped as the manifold to pipe are bolts/nuts rather than studs. Wet everything down and torch them off, remove exhaust pipe, starter, structual cover and then the pan and I believe the pickup tube.
Have fun. |
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#6 |
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2000 Laredo V8
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Hey Granam!
I have a friend working on an old muscle for me car in Campobello. Can I IM you?
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2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 145K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof. Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced twice), new rear liftgate struts, new radiator (replaced 3 times), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced twice), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3 times), new rear shocks (replaced twice), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new exhaust manufold studs & gasket on driver's side. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can! |
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#7 |
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One of 2733 :)
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Try to fix that rust ASAP with some POR15, I just had the one on our WJ rust out a couple weekends ago, it is such a pain to change, as said, the y-pipe has to come off, I just cut it with a chain cutter and put a butt-an-end clamp on it and it holds up fine, the bolts on the manifold came right off, the pan was stuck really bad to the "reusable" gasket(which you should just replace while you're in there) and lastly, I didn't have to take the starter off but it is the 4.7L H.O. it could be different. I tore up that gasket pretty bad and bent it too while prying it off and RTV doesn't hold back the oil and don't ask me how I know. Good luck and I hope it doesn't leak on you
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I'd get that fixed asap. I bought a new pan and gasket to replace it, but got lucky and ended up replacing my engine altogether, which had a perfectly good pan on it. From looking in the FSM, it doesn't look like a fun job to do. Good luck.
Also, take a look at your trans pan, mine rusted completely through. I ended up going out to my jeep one morning with a big puddle of fluid on ground.
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-Steve- 2004 TJ Rubicon OME HD springs - OME shocks - RE front/rear adjustable Superflex LCAs - Rusty's adjustable front UCAs - Full Traction rear tri-link conversion - Rusty's quick disconnects - JKS 1.25" BL - JKS 1" MML - Nth diff skid - Iron Rock Off Road HD tie-rod - Warn M8000 - Tom Wood's rear CV shaft - Rokmen high clearance belly skid - Rokmen Mercenary Sliders - Rokmen engine/tranny skid - Rokmen steering box skid - Rokmen Mercenary front bumper RIP: 2004 WJ Overland: 5.5" with front/rear long arms, sliders, skids, 32" Cooper STT's and wheeled it like it wasn't my DD. 2 motors, 2 trannies, 150k miles before I parked it. Jeeps Going Wild |
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#9 | |
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One of 2733 :)
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Quote:
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I looked under my jeep the other day and was surprised how much rust there was everywhere. Also a leaking pinion seal on the front differential and two ripped CV joint boots. Fixed all that stuff. The exhaust looks pretty rusty as well
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2000 Red Grand Cherokee Laredo 4 Liter with Selec-trac 115,000 miles purchased with 65,000 miles. My daughters truck (and my toy too!!) 05 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 (my wife's beast) 01 Black Mercedes E320 (my car) |
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#11 |
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One of 2733 :)
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If you do replace it and don't need to take the starter off like in my case, make sure you still disconnect the negative battery terminal, I didn't do this(i know, it was dumb), and arced the starter, twice actually, which failed a week later.
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#12 | |
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Junior Member
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Quote:
And go head and im me if you want Double E |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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#14 |
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Registered User
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I replaced mine too. Rusted to death and leaking. They're thin metal and junk. You could do this yourself. Oil pan is not too much - about $100
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-- Roy |
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