Oil Filter Adaptor Removal (my way) - Page 7 - JeepForum.com

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post #91 of 134 Old 01-08-2014, 12:12 PM
LouC
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It depends on how that surface was machined. Mine never had the adaptor 16 years 150,000 miles 40+ oil changes never had a filter leak. The adaptor may have been needed in the narrower YJ, TJ and XJ engine bays but in the ZJ absolutely not. Easiest oil filter to change in my 42 years of changing oil.


2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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post #92 of 134 Old 01-08-2014, 06:34 PM
MaintMech
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Lots of motors run with the filter screwed into the block.

The Chevy 250 six popper is one I've had a lot of experience with.

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post #93 of 134 Old 01-08-2014, 07:35 PM
Uniblurb
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Was just curious and guess I've owned Jeeps so long forgot many engines/filters don't use an adapter...
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post #94 of 134 Old 01-08-2014, 07:41 PM
LouC
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Never seen one on any of the old school American cars we had :Chevy small block, Olds 350, Ford 302, Ford 460, Mopar 318, Ford 250 six. Same on my 4 cyl Japanese cars, it's actuall hard to think of one that has an adaptor type mount (modern Hemis have something similar and so did the original 426s). Why not take a good look at that machined surface, if it seals well enough for an o ring it should work for a filter seal.

Here you go OE installation, that adaptor, was a hold over from other installations, or maybe it made a bit faster to install the engine, but it is really NOT needed as you can clearly see....
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post #95 of 134 Old 01-09-2014, 12:55 PM
Muddblood
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Update on my adpater removal. The stock sized (Puralator) oil filter ended up rubbing the motor mount and over the course of the past month or so, rubbed a hole/crack in the filter. I ended up buying the new seals at the dealer (~$8.48) yesterday as well as a new Mopar filter (~ $8.56) and put the adapater back on. Went on EXTREMELY easy (compared to taking it off!). The good news is that mysterious metal to metal squeak when turning and compressiong the suspension seems to have disappeared. So...if you are going to remove the adapter, definitely go with the smaller filter mentioned many times in this post.
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post #96 of 134 Old 01-10-2014, 05:58 PM
LouC
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I have never had any clearance issues with either the Mopar filters or the approximately 35 Purolators I have installed over the 15 years worth of oil changes I have done to the ZJ. There is no need really for a longer filter on these, the engine holds 6-6.5 qts of oil as it is....

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post #97 of 134 Old 02-28-2014, 12:08 PM
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Thanks for all the information in this thread because my oil filter adapter just started leaking on a 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 with 260,000 miles.

I have not fixed it yet, but I am rounding up the parts to give it a go. I got the o-ring three piece set from my local Dodge dealership for $3.01 on sale plus tax. Regular price was $4.25. Mopar part number was 1-04720363.

From what I read about what wrenches I would need, I either needed a T60 torx or a 9/16 hex to take the adapter bolt off. After a trip by Northern Tool and Harbor Freight, my adapter bolt is a 9/16 hex bit.

Nobody in town that I could find carries the singles of the hex bit socket, but they all seem to carry the singles of the torx sockets, and the only way to get the 9/16 hex bit socket is to buy the whole set. HF had the hex bit set that went up to 5/8 for $13.99, but I would have to drive the bit out of the socket.

Checked Sears since I had a remaining balance of 5.75 on a gift card, and they did have the single 9/16 half inch drive hex bit socket, but it was not in stock, and it would have to be ordered. The Craftsman socket has the set screw, so I won't have to drive the hex bit out of the socket. It will be here early next week.

Norther Tool did have a Bondhus JUMBO Ball End Single L-Wrench 14mm, Model# BL 14mm that would fit the 9/16 hex, but the short part of the L-wrench would not fit because it was too long to fit because of the frame rail being to close to the adapter bolt.

Anyway, sorry for being so long winded on my first post. Just trying to get on the right track to fix the leak the right way.
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post #98 of 134 Old 02-28-2014, 12:23 PM
zjosh93
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The trick to the 9/16 hex key is to go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a rod coupler for 3/8 threaded rod. They are basically a 9/16 nut about an inch long. Cost about $2. On my 93 there wasn't room to fit a hex socket in there any way. Stick the rod coupler in the oil filter adapter bolt, put a 9/16 box end wrench on it, add a lot of extra leverage and it should come right out.
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post #99 of 134 Old 02-28-2014, 02:37 PM
snippits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
The trick to the 9/16 hex key is to go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a rod coupler for 3/8 threaded rod. They are basically a 9/16 nut about an inch long. Cost about $2. On my 93 there wasn't room to fit a hex socket in there any way. Stick the rod coupler in the oil filter adapter bolt, put a 9/16 box end wrench on it, add a lot of extra leverage and it should come right out.
Thank you for the tip on the coupler. Going to go and get one, and if it works I will just go to Sears and get a refund when the hex bit socket comes in. I was just going to take the short hex bit out of the socket, and then use a wrench on the hex bit. But I am all in for saving a buck. I can take the savings and go buy another Wix filter since I am trying to clean the sludge out of my old Jeep. Thanks
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post #100 of 134 Old 08-01-2014, 09:36 AM
johns1mj
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Call out to everyone who performed the adapter removal. What is your updates? Have you had any filter rubbing issues? Does the oil leak return?
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post #101 of 134 Old 08-01-2014, 11:53 AM
motordoctor
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I took mine off a couple of years ago and haven't had a single issue. The only PITA is the filter isn't as easy to remove but it beats the oil spots on my driveway
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post #102 of 134 Old 08-01-2014, 05:33 PM
JAMS201075
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Mine has been off for about 8 months. No issues, leaks or rubbing. plenty of room to remove and install.

Jason
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post #103 of 134 Old 03-31-2015, 01:50 AM
tetatdo
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dumb question but draining the oil from the motor is required, right?
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post #104 of 134 Old 03-31-2015, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tetatdo View Post
...draining the oil from the motor is required, right?
Yeah, if you're going to fix/delete the filter adapter you'll want to do it in conjunction with an oil change. Two birds with one stone so to speak.

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post #105 of 134 Old 03-31-2015, 07:14 AM
zjosh93
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It's not required but it's probably a good idea. It's a lot easier to maneuver the adapter if you remove the filter and if you take off the filter you should replace it. I guess if you just changed the oil you could cheap out and just put a new filter and a little oil in it.
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