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Unread 12-16-2013, 02:37 PM   #76
Muddblood
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Well, looks like this is in my future as well (again, good threads never die). My question is (and I'm too lazy to do the research) everyone that says they just took the adpater off says so and so filter will work...what about the stock (size) filter? The one you get when you go to Autozone/Walmart/whatever and look through their book and get the corrosponding part number (ie PH16 for a Fram Filter)? Just tring to decide which road to take on this one.

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Unread 12-16-2013, 04:38 PM   #77
motordoctor
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I use the Bosch 3402 which is the recommended size filter for the Jeep and it fits without the adapter. It's not as roomy to install/remove compared to the adapter but it can be done. On the plus side, no more oil leaks from that area
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Unread 12-17-2013, 03:46 PM   #78
Purcell69
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I just scanned through this thread and I have to wonder, what about repositioning the adapter so the oil filter hangs down (open end facing up)? I know the locating pin would need to be removed or the adapter would have to be drilled to make it work. It seems to me that come oil change time, this is less of a mess. Is it just the starter is in the way? My ZJ is in the parking lot right now, so I can't look.

-Joe
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Unread 12-18-2013, 12:39 AM   #79
AVR2
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One of the benefits of having one of the very earliest 1992-build ZJs is that the filter adapter bolt has a standard hex head and comes off with a 16mm box-end wrench, no problem at all
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Unread 12-18-2013, 02:10 PM   #80
Muddblood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
One of the benefits of having one of the very earliest 1992-build ZJs is that the filter adapter bolt has a standard hex head and comes off with a 16mm box-end wrench, no problem at all
So I wonder if a trip to the local pull and pay would yield such a bolt? I figure ~$3-5 for gaskets and ~$5 for a HEX bolt and not have to deal with "remembering" I need a different filter. If by using a hex head bolt and it comes right out, I see no reaason NOT to do it this way.
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Unread 12-18-2013, 02:24 PM   #81
Muddblood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
I just scanned through this thread and I have to wonder, what about repositioning the adapter so the oil filter hangs down (open end facing up)? I know the locating pin would need to be removed or the adapter would have to be drilled to make it work. It seems to me that come oil change time, this is less of a mess. Is it just the starter is in the way? My ZJ is in the parking lot right now, so I can't look.

-Joe
I suspect the locating pin is there so the housing doesn't spin when tightening the bolt, which might detroy the gasket.
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Unread 12-18-2013, 08:57 PM   #82
zjosh93
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True, but I doubt you need the locating pin at all. There are a lot of aftermarket oil cooler adapters out there with o-ring seals and no locating pin. The factory oil cooler adapter on my ex-police car has no locating pin.

Second to the 16 mm hex bolts are the 9/16 allen head bolts. You can use a 3/8 threaded rod coupler as a short adapter to make it a 9/16 hex bolt and then it's easy.
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Unread 12-18-2013, 09:30 PM   #83
AVR2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddblood View Post
So I wonder if a trip to the local pull and pay would yield such a bolt?
I could be wrong here, but it's possible that the hex bolt may not interchange with the Allen bolt.

If you look in the 1993 parts catalog there are two part numbers for the ZJ adapter bolt, one for "up to 7-16-92" and one for "after 7-16-92". AFAIK, the former is the hex head and the latter is the Allen head.

Problem is, I'd be concerned that the existence of two part numbers means that more than just the head of the bolt changed - quite possibly the design of of the shaft changed too, which may stop them being inter-compatible. I know for a fact that if you buy the post-7-16-92 O-ring set, the two rings that go directly on the bolt won't fit the pre-7-16-92 bolt (but the large ring that seals between the adapter and the block does fit).

If you want to give it a try, the ZJ hex bolt is the same part number as the XJ and MJ adapter bolt from 1991-92, which may help you with a wider range of possible donor vehicles.

A popular alternative is just to weld a nut onto the head of the Allen bolt.
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Unread 12-19-2013, 12:58 PM   #84
khakioutlaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddblood View Post
Well, looks like this is in my future as well (again, good threads never die). My question is (and I'm too lazy to do the research) everyone that says they just took the adpater off says so and so filter will work...what about the stock (size) filter? The one you get when you go to Autozone/Walmart/whatever and look through their book and get the corrosponding part number (ie PH16 for a Fram Filter)? Just tring to decide which road to take on this one.
Stock oil filters work fine. Did this a few months back after one of my O rings bit the big one. To make a long story short, my "small" leak turned into a very large one overnight. I bought the recommended Mopar oil filter from the wally world computer thingy and it fit fine. Tried a Fram filter for ****z and giggles and it fit fine too. No leaks and mounts right to the block where the adapter used to be. Just follow the ideas/instructions here and you'll be fine.

Oh, I also recommend either a long breaker bar OR about a foot and a half pipe to put over your wrench. I ended up doing the method where you remove the torx bit from a impact socket and use it in a closed ended wrench. Be prepared to put some weight behind it as mine was a bear to loosen at first.
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Unread 12-19-2013, 03:54 PM   #85
Muddblood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khakioutlaw View Post
Stock oil filters work fine. Did this a few months back after one of my O rings bit the big one. To make a long story short, my "small" leak turned into a very large one overnight. I bought the recommended Mopar oil filter from the wally world computer thingy and it fit fine. Tried a Fram filter for ****z and giggles and it fit fine too. No leaks and mounts right to the block where the adapter used to be. Just follow the ideas/instructions here and you'll be fine.

Oh, I also recommend either a long breaker bar OR about a foot and a half pipe to put over your wrench. I ended up doing the method where you remove the torx bit from a impact socket and use it in a closed ended wrench. Be prepared to put some weight behind it as mine was a bear to loosen at first.
Excellent! This is REALLY good to know! I REALLY like the idea of having less seals that can go bad. I think I'll try a stock sized filter on the block and do away with the adapter. Worst case is I am back to buying gaskets and installing the adapter. Pipe I don't think is an issue for me...I got a couple to choose from.

And @AVR2 - I don't have a welder, nor a garage to weld in. GOSH how I miss my house (not the location, just the house). Oh well...another house WITH garage is in my future...just don't know where yet. But I wonder if the actual HOUSING has a different part number??
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Unread 12-20-2013, 02:29 AM   #86
AVR2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddblood View Post
But I wonder if the actual HOUSING has a different part number??
Yes it does. Same deal, one for up to 7-16-92 and one for after.
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Unread 12-20-2013, 02:09 PM   #87
Muddblood
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Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
Yes it does. Same deal, one for up to 7-16-92 and one for after.
I kinda figured. I'd say the main passage was opened up then. This is all REALLY good to know!!! Thanks for the FSM references!!
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Unread 12-28-2013, 08:02 AM   #88
Brant01
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Working on this on my 95. I welded the T60 into a 12mm wrench and used a cheater pipe from underneath. Thanks for the good info here.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 08:11 PM   #89
Muddblood
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So I managed to get the adapter off and the filter on the block. I ran into a few issues on my 95:

For some reason, the t60 bit would not stay straight in the bolt: ANY torque placed on it would make it go cock-eyed and risk damaging the bolt and/or bit.

I had two t60 bits; Snapon and Matco. The Snapon bit was quite longer and thicker (5/8" wrench compared to 1/2" for the Matco) and actually hit the frame when in the bolt. Neither one had a set screw, but I was able to punch them both out.

Since the t60 would not grip, I tried the pipe wrench method, but it was too big. I ended up, working from the top, resorting to vice grips and the 1 1/2' pipe, removed both ac lines (system was empty anyway). It worked with minimal damage to the bolt. Once it was loose, the t60 bit and an open end wrench got it out (closed end or ratchet wrench would work too) from the bottom.

I managed to squeeze the stock sized filter right to the block, but I had to remove one of the motor mount to frame bolts and unbolt and reposition the starter wiring harness. I think I'll find someone to weld a nut on the adapter bolt, buy new gaskets and put the adapter back on (at some point in the future).
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Unread 01-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #90
Uniblurb
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I've often wondered if removing the filter adapter, while having the the filter directly against the block, doesn't cause the oil in the filter to be hotter directly against cast steel? And is the block smooth enough to create a good seal like the smoother surface on the adapter where the rubber seal contacts? Guess these questions are enough to keep my adapter on as is.
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