Oil Filter Adaptor Removal (my way) - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 133 Old 08-12-2006, 06:23 PM
Drunet
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Yeah I know! I said screw it and will try at the next 3000 miles!


'95 ZJ 4.0L I6 All Stock Baby!
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post #17 of 133 Old 08-12-2006, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
greasefingers
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One would think that since the O-rings leak then the bolt should be lubed enough to not battle you

Cheers Steve

94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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post #18 of 133 Old 08-12-2006, 09:51 PM
rossb
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My I6 also has a T60 bolt in the center of the oil filter housing. I could not use a T60 bit on a ratchet because there was no clearance in between the housing and the frame.

I ground two edges on a T60 bit so that I was able to slip a 23mm wrench on the bit.



I started on the top of the motor. I slipped a 2-ft pipe on the end of the wrench and I was able to break the bolt free with a lot of force. After I broke it free I went underneath the vehicle to loosen the bolt. There is more clearance to swing the wrench under the motor.

As I was loosening the bolt I noticed that the bolt was not coming out of the housing. The housing was pulling off the block with the bolt and the bolt was hard to turn. I could not turn the bolt by hand so I had to continue to use the T60. I soon ran out of room in between the frame and the T60 bit. I screwed the bolt back in most of the way and then used a screwdriver to separate the two parts while they were still on the block.



After that it came off easily by hand.

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post #19 of 133 Old 08-13-2006, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
greasefingers
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That was creative.

Cheers Steve

94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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post #20 of 133 Old 11-01-2006, 07:17 PM
chadgtr
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Oil adapter removal

I have a 93 ZJ 4.0. When I discovered the leak from the adapter(about a quart a week) I pulled off the adapter and noticed that the threaded nipple that the oil filter screws on to was also threaded into the adapter itself. I used a 1" socket and took it out, it is the same thread on both sides. I screwed this right into the block and removed the lcating pin with some vice-grips. I used a Fram PH16 filter and now it mounts directly to the block with plenty of room to get the filter in and out. I did this about a month ago and I have had zero leakage.
Has anyone out there done the same thing? I was wondering if there could be any possible side affects other than eliminating the adapter?
I have been trying to think of why that adapter was there to begin with, if when it is removed the filter can fit fine without it.
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post #21 of 133 Old 11-02-2006, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
greasefingers
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The purpose of the 90 oil filter adaptor is to provide enough room for a filter. If the adaptor is eliminated then that allows only 4 inches of space (as seen below) A typical oil filter is 4 inches long. So removing the adaptor altogether will not work, as you need even more space to thread the filter on due to the nipple length

Cheers Steve

94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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post #22 of 133 Old 11-02-2006, 08:00 PM
chadgtr
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I had no problem getting the oil filter to mount straight to the block without the adapter. There was plenty of room. As soon as I can I will post a pic. There is a bit of a down angle from the mounting surface to the block, so I think that helps with the clearance issue.
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post #23 of 133 Old 11-02-2006, 10:52 PM
dturano547
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Nice, what did that ruler come free with a subscription to SI?

Go Lions...

Now im bored with my plain old ruler, just says STANLEY.

Most recent Jeep status can be viewed on the left, enjoy!
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post #24 of 133 Old 06-10-2007, 06:07 PM
Hogweed
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is it possible to exchange the t-60 for a regular hex-head to make future removal easier?
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post #25 of 133 Old 06-11-2007, 06:13 AM
gomes512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasefingers
It actually took me about an hour to remove ONE bolt, using three different methods.


Ahhh fond memories. Except I did mine when it was freezing balls cold outside. I wish I had this writeup at the time, probably would have saved me 5 hours of cursing
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post #26 of 133 Old 06-11-2007, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogweed
is it possible to exchange the t-60 for a regular hex-head to make future removal easier?
Probably not as it has the seal and hole drilled in it. What you could do is weld a nut on the end of it.

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post #27 of 133 Old 06-11-2007, 07:05 PM
Hogweed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunthagunth
Probably not as it has the seal and hole drilled in it. What you could do is weld a nut on the end of it.
i looked at the picture of the bolt again after i posted that and figured it was a no-go. good idea to affix a bolt to it though!
gh
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post #28 of 133 Old 06-17-2007, 11:18 AM
02Lightning
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Ok, just replaced mine today but it didn't have a large o-ring between the block and the adaptor? Maybe it dried up and fell out or something. Anyway I put the large o-ring in the kit between the block and the adaptor in the groove. I assume this is correct?

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L NP249 Transfer Case, 42RE, 212,000 miles
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post #29 of 133 Old 09-17-2007, 12:36 PM
rs2.bull
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasefingers
The purpose of the 90 oil filter adaptor is to provide enough room for a filter. If the adaptor is eliminated then that allows only 4 inches of space (as seen below) A typical oil filter is 4 inches long. So removing the adaptor altogether will not work, as you need even more space to thread the filter on due to the nipple length

I must disagree. I just finished removing the 90 degree adapter from my 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo. There is enough clearance to put the filter back on. I used the procedure that was mentioned earlier in this thread, regarding a 1993 GC and mounted the filter directly to the engine block. I could not get the split guide pin out with vicegrips as described so I cut it off with a Dremill tool. So it will work on '93 and '94 for sure.
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post #30 of 133 Old 09-17-2007, 12:42 PM
ArloGuthroJeep
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Silly ZJ engine bay design...no need for the adapter on WJ's. We have like 5 ft between the engine block and the "frame" rail

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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