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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Oil Filter Adaptor Removal (my way)

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Unread 08-12-2006, 07:23 PM   #16
Drunet
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Yeah I know! I said screw it and will try at the next 3000 miles!

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Unread 08-12-2006, 07:31 PM   #17
greasefingers
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One would think that since the O-rings leak then the bolt should be lubed enough to not battle you
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88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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Unread 08-12-2006, 10:51 PM   #18
rossb
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My I6 also has a T60 bolt in the center of the oil filter housing. I could not use a T60 bit on a ratchet because there was no clearance in between the housing and the frame.

I ground two edges on a T60 bit so that I was able to slip a 23mm wrench on the bit.



I started on the top of the motor. I slipped a 2-ft pipe on the end of the wrench and I was able to break the bolt free with a lot of force. After I broke it free I went underneath the vehicle to loosen the bolt. There is more clearance to swing the wrench under the motor.

As I was loosening the bolt I noticed that the bolt was not coming out of the housing. The housing was pulling off the block with the bolt and the bolt was hard to turn. I could not turn the bolt by hand so I had to continue to use the T60. I soon ran out of room in between the frame and the T60 bit. I screwed the bolt back in most of the way and then used a screwdriver to separate the two parts while they were still on the block.



After that it came off easily by hand.

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Unread 08-13-2006, 06:04 AM   #19
greasefingers
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That was creative.
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94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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Unread 11-01-2006, 08:17 PM   #20
chadgtr
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Oil adapter removal

I have a 93 ZJ 4.0. When I discovered the leak from the adapter(about a quart a week) I pulled off the adapter and noticed that the threaded nipple that the oil filter screws on to was also threaded into the adapter itself. I used a 1" socket and took it out, it is the same thread on both sides. I screwed this right into the block and removed the lcating pin with some vice-grips. I used a Fram PH16 filter and now it mounts directly to the block with plenty of room to get the filter in and out. I did this about a month ago and I have had zero leakage.
Has anyone out there done the same thing? I was wondering if there could be any possible side affects other than eliminating the adapter?
I have been trying to think of why that adapter was there to begin with, if when it is removed the filter can fit fine without it.
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Unread 11-02-2006, 08:15 AM   #21
greasefingers
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The purpose of the 90 oil filter adaptor is to provide enough room for a filter. If the adaptor is eliminated then that allows only 4 inches of space (as seen below) A typical oil filter is 4 inches long. So removing the adaptor altogether will not work, as you need even more space to thread the filter on due to the nipple length
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94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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Unread 11-02-2006, 09:00 PM   #22
chadgtr
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I had no problem getting the oil filter to mount straight to the block without the adapter. There was plenty of room. As soon as I can I will post a pic. There is a bit of a down angle from the mounting surface to the block, so I think that helps with the clearance issue.
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Unread 11-02-2006, 11:52 PM   #23
dturano547
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Nice, what did that ruler come free with a subscription to SI?

Go Lions...

Now im bored with my plain old ruler, just says STANLEY.
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Unread 06-10-2007, 07:07 PM   #24
Hogweed
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is it possible to exchange the t-60 for a regular hex-head to make future removal easier?
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Unread 06-11-2007, 07:13 AM   #25
gomes512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasefingers
It actually took me about an hour to remove ONE bolt, using three different methods.


Ahhh fond memories. Except I did mine when it was freezing balls cold outside. I wish I had this writeup at the time, probably would have saved me 5 hours of cursing
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Unread 06-11-2007, 07:51 PM   #26
gunthagunth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogweed
is it possible to exchange the t-60 for a regular hex-head to make future removal easier?
Probably not as it has the seal and hole drilled in it. What you could do is weld a nut on the end of it.
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Unread 06-11-2007, 08:05 PM   #27
Hogweed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunthagunth
Probably not as it has the seal and hole drilled in it. What you could do is weld a nut on the end of it.
i looked at the picture of the bolt again after i posted that and figured it was a no-go. good idea to affix a bolt to it though!
gh
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Unread 06-17-2007, 12:18 PM   #28
02Lightning
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Ok, just replaced mine today but it didn't have a large o-ring between the block and the adaptor? Maybe it dried up and fell out or something. Anyway I put the large o-ring in the kit between the block and the adaptor in the groove. I assume this is correct?
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Unread 09-17-2007, 01:36 PM   #29
rs2.bull
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasefingers
The purpose of the 90 oil filter adaptor is to provide enough room for a filter. If the adaptor is eliminated then that allows only 4 inches of space (as seen below) A typical oil filter is 4 inches long. So removing the adaptor altogether will not work, as you need even more space to thread the filter on due to the nipple length

I must disagree. I just finished removing the 90 degree adapter from my 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo. There is enough clearance to put the filter back on. I used the procedure that was mentioned earlier in this thread, regarding a 1993 GC and mounted the filter directly to the engine block. I could not get the split guide pin out with vicegrips as described so I cut it off with a Dremill tool. So it will work on '93 and '94 for sure.
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Unread 09-17-2007, 01:42 PM   #30
ArloGuthroJeep
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Silly ZJ engine bay design...no need for the adapter on WJ's. We have like 5 ft between the engine block and the "frame" rail
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