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Unread 08-14-2013, 12:31 PM   #1
ROFLwaffles
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Oil change, but louder?

OK, here is the deal. After hitting 200k, I figured I would do some things to enhance the protection of my 1997 4.0 I6 engine a bit.

First thing I did was ran a Seafoam treatment. Worked beautifully. Lots of crap came out the tailpipe, and I swear it feels like I regained about 10 HP. I ran the Seafoam in my oil for about 100 miles, and when I changed it, it looked like diesel oil, nice and black. No odd problems there. I normally run conventional 10w30. And there is usually a tiny lifter tick that is just always there. And a wee bit of knocking on cold start acceleration. (I have never had a problem, it's just a noisy engine)

But when I did the change, I switched to 10w40, and added a quart of Marvel Mystery Mystery Oil. And now on startup, it sounds like a diesel engine. Like I can hear every part in the top end rattling and moving. WAY louder then it was before. It goes away after a couple minutes, but the ticking while running warm has now changed to a more hollow sounding clack.

So my questions are thus: Should I be worried? I am used to my 4.0 making noise, but this seems excessive. All the stuff I have read on here suggested that 10w40+MMO would be a better choice for a higher mileage engine. And has anyone else had this issue?

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Unread 08-14-2013, 03:46 PM   #2
zj97ltd
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My guess is that Marvel is probably thinning out your oil. Isn't that stuff a solvent of sorts? How's your oil pressure compared to where it normally is?
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:04 PM   #3
ROFLwaffles
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I am running a thicker oil than I was before, so even if it did thin it out a little bit, it wouldn't be a whole lot different. My oil pressure is about the same place it was before. Maybe a tad bit higher, but not really much at all.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:13 PM   #4
newfieZJ
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I run 0W-30 Castrol in all my vehicles . Haven't heard start-up knock in 3 years since the switch . You say thick , I say thinner .

BTW , Castrol 0W-30 is what BMW uses stock and one of few "true" synthetic oils . Lots say it but are not .
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:22 PM   #5
zjosh93
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MMO is mostly just mineral oil and mineral spirits. It would probably thin the 10w40 out a little but not so much it would be thinner than 10w30. I have no explanation for the engine noise but I'd change back to an oil that didn't make noise if it were my Jeep.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:32 PM   #6
zj97ltd
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I realize that stuff has been around forever but I'm not a big fan of circulating paint thinner through my engine.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:35 PM   #7
ROFLwaffles
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It does actually seem to run smoother, just louder.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:37 PM   #8
LordHobbit
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that happened when I ran 15W40 in mine. I changed it after a couple thousand back to 10w30 and it was much better. Consider using a ZDDP additive.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:40 PM   #9
Technohead
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Further validation of the "if it ain't broken then don't fix it" school of thought . . .
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:44 PM   #10
zjosh93
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I've never used MMO in an engine and now I'm glad I didn't. It works great to float the grit out of your cylinders after honing though.

FWIW another additive, Z-MAX, is just three bottles of tinted mineral oil and according to FTC tests it causes almost double the bearing corrosion of normal oil. I worked at a parts store and I remember having to take it off the shelves. It's back now but it's still junk.

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.shtm
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:46 PM   #11
zj97ltd
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When I first started driving ~1997, you used to be able to go to Wally World and get a big silver can of "engine flush." You let it circulate through your crank case for about 10 minutes before an oil change to break stuff up/clean stuff out. I think that was more or less mineral spirits. And I'm pretty sure there's a reason why no one sells it anymore.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 04:59 PM   #12
zjosh93
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You can still get engine flush at walmart and most parts stores. It's mostly naptha according to the MSDS for the Gunk branded stuff. It works pretty well if you follow the directions. Really cleaned out an old Chevy 305 I had in a Camaro. Don't rev or drive with it in there though. I've run it a couple times in my Jeep. The only problem I had was that it softened the seals on the oil sending unit both times and caused a leak. CRC, Gunk, and KW make it.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 05:03 PM   #13
zj97ltd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
You can still get engine flush at walmart and most parts stores. It's mostly naptha according to the MSDS for the Gunk branded stuff. It works pretty well if you follow the directions. Really cleaned out an old Chevy 305 I had in a Camaro. Don't rev or drive with it in there though. I've run it a couple times in my Jeep. The only problem I had was that it softened the seals on the oil sending unit both times and caused a leak. CRC, Gunk, and KW make it.
Odd, I haven't seen it around here in years, unless it's a FL thing. Even with Marvel though, I can see doing a similar flush with it, but I don't think I'd want to drive anywhere with it. Kinda like Sea Foam. Works great in the driveway, but do you want to dump a can of it in your crankcase and go?
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Unread 08-14-2013, 05:07 PM   #14
ROFLwaffles
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Everything I read said that seafoam was only to be run for about 100 miles before you change the oil. And all over the internet there are people saying that they use a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase at every or oil change. And then leave it in there. And that is what I did with both.
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Unread 08-14-2013, 09:24 PM   #15
PolkaPower
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Don't you think that if MMO was worth it that the oil companies would just include it in the oil? Oil is the only thing that goes in my CC. All that other crap isn't made to the same standard that oil is and it just takes up space that oil should be.
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