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Unread 02-16-2007, 03:22 PM   #1
Army_Monkey
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OBDII Five-Speed Swap

'98 ZJ Five-Speed Swap

I hadn't actually intended on doing a full write-up, but my ZJ being a '98 caused some issues that you wouldn't face on a '93-'95, and I took quite a few pictures, so here is where I ended up. I had planned on doing a 5-speed swap since I saw Woody's, but I had just had the 42RE rebuilt, so I didn't want to spend the money twice. Shortly after the rebuilt trans hit the 1,500-mile mark, it puked out all of the fluid, and the O/D went out on it. Rather than have it rebuilt again, I embarked on the swap. Here's my lovely ZJ before the swap:

First off, nearly all of the parts are the same as in an OBDI swap, with the exception of a few parts. Just for reference, the parts I used are listed below:
NAPA Clutch part no. MU1890-1D
NAPA Flywheel 50-1002
NAPA CPS CSS613
'94 ZJ 5-spd pedals and shifter with boots (thanks, Gunthagunth)
JeepShop.com '94 ZJ clutch master and slave cylinder, pre-bled
Tom Woods front and rear driveshafts (haven't ordered the front yet)
AX-15 out of a '94 XJ 4x4 with 68k

There are no trans mounts or combination thereof that let the AX-15 bolt into my '98. The '95-under AX-15 mount has a fore-aft bolt orientation, whereas the '96-up use a side-to-side. There was a TSB to convert the earlier autos to this setup, but it wasn't performed on the 5-speed (go figure). You may be able to use a '95-under crossmember with the correct mount, but I just stuck with my stock one. I did order up Rockauto for a '94 ZJ 5-speed, then took the 42RE and AX-15 mounts to a fab shop, and had something made that worked. I didn't take any pics of it, but one of these days I'll pull it out and do so.
42RE vs AX-15 mount:



The brake pedal bracket out of the '94 would not fit in my '98. In the end, I simply swapped the pedals themselves, and reused the stock '98 bracket.
The holes for the clutch pedal and master are marked but not drilled. Drilling them was relatively easy, though getting the angles right is nearly impossible. As a result, my pedal sits about a 1/2" too low, definitely not worth worrying about, though I may lengthen the bolt holes and fix it sometime in the future. Also, there are two spots for studs on the top of the clutch pedal bracket, but the studs weren't there on my '98. They would have ensured the correct angle of the pedal bracket, but don't seem to make a difference in strength.



On the same note, the wiring harness ran right where the clutch pedal needed to go. It was easy to move out of the way once the pedal was in, but something to watch out for when drilling.


On the firewall there was some unused mounting locations right behind where the clutch pedal went. As a result, the studs on the pedal bracket wouldn't stick far enough through to mount the master. A metal chisel and hammer made quick work of them however.


The CPS I bought has a completely different connector than my '98. I read on another write-up someone with a '96 using it, so they must changed the connector some time since then.

I don't have a soldering gun, so I cut off both connectors, and wired the '98 connector onto the new CPS. I used butt connectors, put heat shrink over the top, and then wrapped the entire thing in electrical tape. Not the greatest setup, but works well enough for me. You have to ensure you hook the right wires up though, because the wires are all black, with the middle one having a white or gray stripe.


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--- Soon to come: Clayton's, Currie 9" axles, 4.6L stroker, and plenty more
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Unread 02-16-2007, 03:22 PM   #2
Army_Monkey
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The metal trans tunnel cover inside of the truck doesn't have a hole for the 5-speed shifter to come through. The auto shifter sat right where it needs to be. Luckily, the correct size and shape hole is bent into it, and a jigsaw worked great at cutting it out.


You can clearly see the difference in the auto versus manual shifters, and the way the shape of the shifter boot matches up to the indentation in the trans tunnel cover.


Interestingly, my stock rear driveshaft turned out to be exactly the same length at the driveshaft I got out of a '94 5-speed. Well, as expected, the AX-15 measures out right at 24 inches long, while the 42RE came in at a hair over 27 inches. It's a tight fit, because the t-case only has maybe 3.5 inches to move forward before it hits the crossmember.
'94 5-spd Top -- '98 Auto Bottom:

I couldn't find anyone locally that would lengthen a driveshaft, so I ordered up a Woody with an extra 3 inches added on.


Now, I have heard of one OBD-II 5-spd swap that used the stock PCM and reported no problems. That wasn't so in my case, however. While the Jeep runs and drives with issues, the "Check Engine" light is on, owing to the PCM wondering where all of the trans signals went. It isn't a big issue for me, because I ripped my charcoal canister off long ago and the light has been on intermittently for as long as I can remember. I will be attempting to swap in a '98 XJ PCM here in a month or so, and will report back on how it works out.

I know just about everyone who has ever done this swap has wished for a simple way to take care of the t-case shifter problem. So fat, I've seen two solutions to the problem: 1) Get your hands on stock 5-speed linkage (good luck); and 2) Use the Novak SK2X shifter. I tried to modify the stock linkage to work, but it was so old and rusty, it turned out to be more of a hassle than it was worth. The Novak shifter is on order right now.

Another small problem which arose, and I should have considered before getting started, was the flywheel bolts. They are a dealer-only item, and cost over $5 each. Unfortunately, they are a must-have, because the flexplate bolts don't even come close to working.

I know that on all of the OBDI swaps I have seen, there is a bushing inside of the NP242 input shaft that keeps the t-case and trans from bolting together correctly. My '98 did not have this bushing. The tailshaft on the AX-15 and my 42RE were identical, and everything bolted right up. That saved me the hassle of disassembling the t-case. It would be wise to check though.

The neutral safety switch has to be grounded in order for the Jeep to start. Unfortunately, while it is grounded the cruise control won't work. I have never used the cruise in my ZJ, so I just grounded it to the shifter bolt with a ring connector and called it a day.

My AX-15 came with the reverse light switch already installed, so I simply wired my stock wiring into the trans. I used insulated connectors so I can easily drop the trans in the future.





That was everything I could remember for the install, but if I missed anything, feel free to ask.
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98 Laredo 4.0 4x4 5-Speed
Kevin's 2" BB | OME HD Springs | 31" Baja Claws | 15x8 Classic II's | Kevin's LP-1 Sliders | Stillen Brakes | ARB Bull Bar | Ramsey REP 8.5RE | Kevin's TBC | OME SS | F&R Lock-Rights | Kolak Euro Headlights
--- Soon to come: Clayton's, Currie 9" axles, 4.6L stroker, and plenty more
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Unread 02-16-2007, 03:29 PM   #3
ArloGuthroJeep
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Nice writeup!
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Unread 02-16-2007, 04:08 PM   #4
Woody
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Very cool.

Your shifter knob is on crooked.
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Unread 02-16-2007, 04:17 PM   #5
Army_Monkey
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Ya, I know, I can't get the thing on straight
I considered it enough of a miracle that it moved under its own power. The stupid shift interlock is still in there too, so I can't get the key out without pulling on the cable.
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98 Laredo 4.0 4x4 5-Speed
Kevin's 2" BB | OME HD Springs | 31" Baja Claws | 15x8 Classic II's | Kevin's LP-1 Sliders | Stillen Brakes | ARB Bull Bar | Ramsey REP 8.5RE | Kevin's TBC | OME SS | F&R Lock-Rights | Kolak Euro Headlights
--- Soon to come: Clayton's, Currie 9" axles, 4.6L stroker, and plenty more
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Unread 02-16-2007, 04:22 PM   #6
deathbylaxitive
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very cool , wonder if anyone undertook this endevor on a wj
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Unread 02-16-2007, 04:26 PM   #7
Army_Monkey
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You could be the first
Although I'd probably try it with the six-speed out the '05-up TJ instead, might as well go for being twice as unique
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98 Laredo 4.0 4x4 5-Speed
Kevin's 2" BB | OME HD Springs | 31" Baja Claws | 15x8 Classic II's | Kevin's LP-1 Sliders | Stillen Brakes | ARB Bull Bar | Ramsey REP 8.5RE | Kevin's TBC | OME SS | F&R Lock-Rights | Kolak Euro Headlights
--- Soon to come: Clayton's, Currie 9" axles, 4.6L stroker, and plenty more
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Unread 02-16-2007, 04:31 PM   #8
deathbylaxitive
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if it wasnt my DD i might try it.....even tho it is my dd i wouldnt mind trying it
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Unread 02-16-2007, 06:15 PM   #9
anticrombie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathbylaxitive
if it wasnt my DD i might try it.....even tho it is my dd i wouldnt mind trying it

My ZJ is my daily driver and I'm swaping in an AW4 without knowing if it's going to work.


Very good writeup though!! You guys can expect one for my swap within the week.

Oh and so you know, the 93-95 crossmember bolts right up to the 96-98 zj's and then you can use the early style mounts.
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Unread 02-16-2007, 06:40 PM   #10
Army_Monkey
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That's good to know about the early crossmember, that will save anyone else who tries this a whole lot of hassle with the trans mount. Just FYI, from Rockauto the trans mount for the '93-'94 ZJ 5-speed is Anchor part no 2863, and it is BK 620-1296 from NAPA. If you run either of those with the early crossmember, it should bolt right up. I actually had the Anchor mount, but I cut it up to help with the fabbing of my custom one.
I've seen a few AW4 swaps in ZJs, so it will work. Of course, making it work in YOUR truck is something entirely different, something I know firsthand from the wires on the CPS being reversed on the 5-speed one from my stock auto one.
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98 Laredo 4.0 4x4 5-Speed
Kevin's 2" BB | OME HD Springs | 31" Baja Claws | 15x8 Classic II's | Kevin's LP-1 Sliders | Stillen Brakes | ARB Bull Bar | Ramsey REP 8.5RE | Kevin's TBC | OME SS | F&R Lock-Rights | Kolak Euro Headlights
--- Soon to come: Clayton's, Currie 9" axles, 4.6L stroker, and plenty more
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Unread 02-16-2007, 07:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army_Monkey
You could be the first
Although I'd probably try it with the six-speed out the '05-up TJ instead, might as well go for being twice as unique
I think the 4.7 dakota came with a 5 speed...*cough*
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Unread 02-09-2009, 09:58 AM   #12
Hubjeep
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Nice writeup, I posted over on JU, they linked me to this thread.

I have a 1998 ZJ, 4.0L, at 95K the trans was rebuilt, now at 184K second gear is slipping, would rather not rebuild another vulnerable auto.

A couple years ago I considered the swap, located and purchased a 1993 ZJ clutch pedal and hydraulics, 1996 XJ flywheel, AX-15, and clutch kit. The trans slipping is pushing me to finally do it.

My first task will be installing the clutch pedal and hydraulics, from the writeup it sounds like this is fairly straight-forward, and will not render the Jeep disabled during the install.

Hopefully my 1998 t-case will also bolt right up to the AX-15 like yours did, if so, bolting it to the engine should be no more involved than doing a clutch on a YJ.

Beyond that, modifying the crossmember is not a big concern, thanks for the Anchor mount number BTW. Driveshaft lengths, I will either go with Novak t-case shifter you posted or mod linkage, mess around with NSS, reverse light wiring, etc.

It looks like a 1998 Cherokee CPS has the 1998 ZJ plug side, AND older two bolt mounting style, hopefully that will work out.

The check engine light may be an issue, I wonder what codes it throws? Should not be emission codes... hmmm... NYS emissions FTL, lulz.

Thanks,
John
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Unread 10-11-2010, 10:24 PM   #13
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Yo im looking to convert my 97 TSi the same way, could you help me out? like with parts and step-by-step mostly?
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Unread 10-11-2010, 10:54 PM   #14
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you do realize this thread is 3 years old right lol?

his last activity was in 09 so I think you're out of luck
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[SIZE="1"][B]95 ZJ 5.2[/B]- D30/XJ shafts/D35 Yukon alloys,249, 2"BB, 30x9.5"Wildcat EXT,lots of motor mods, rancho shocks & stabilizer.[/SIZE]

[QUOTE=slayercr23;12630497]How would i go about Stroking it?[/QUOTE]
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Unread 03-11-2012, 01:22 AM   #15
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where did you get the stock shifter boot from!?!?
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