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Unread 08-24-2010, 09:41 AM   #1
Decscorpion
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: 06062
Posts: 94
o-rings on the quick connect and water pump

i need the size of o-rings. And how they would have to go on.
I have replaced them over and over eyeballing what would be the right size and no matter what i do they leak.

1. The steel hose branching off water pump, with o-ring. (Leaking there)
2. The lower tranny line with the quick connect, idk wether to put 2 rings or one. IDK either of the sizes.
Anyone know one or the other? Please HELP me !!!! its getting me agrivated beyond beileif! THANK YOU ALL!!!

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1. 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 5.2 l
2. 1993 Chevrolet K2500 V8 5.7 l
3. 1998 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 l
Thats all i got..
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Unread 08-24-2010, 09:42 AM   #2
Decscorpion
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Location: 06062
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btw its a 1996 jeep grand cherokee laredo. with a 5.2 v8 Again thanks for the help!
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1. 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 5.2 l
2. 1993 Chevrolet K2500 V8 5.7 l
3. 1998 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 l
Thats all i got..
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Unread 08-24-2010, 10:44 AM   #3
duke000088
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Location: Worcester MA
Posts: 72
For the heater return hose (water pump) I ended up sourcing the o-ring from my Harbor Freight collection of o-rings. I do not recall the size. But I do recall scratching my head because the one that looked closest to the old one did not fit in the groove very well... way too big.

I ended up choosing an o-ring that was smaller... once it stretched it fit the groove perfectly. Trial and error. But try starting smaller than you think. Be patient getting a small o-ring on the pipe.

Obviously, spend some time cleaning the groove on the pipe. Double check that there aren't any foreign debris in the water pump inlet.

Apply a decent coat of RTV around the whole end and push it home into the water pump. Allow the RTV time to setup before trying to run the engine.

Are the tranny o-rings serviced by the stealership?
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Unread 08-24-2010, 01:15 PM   #4
Decscorpion
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the oring for tranny is from me....i think it may take 2 rings
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1. 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 5.2 l
2. 1993 Chevrolet K2500 V8 5.7 l
3. 1998 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 l
Thats all i got..
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Unread 08-24-2010, 08:02 PM   #5
Decscorpion
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anyone??? water pump is parcially solved the tranny line is parcially. may go put a normal hose and hoseclamp in. anyone have a sure size of o rings???
__________________
1. 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 5.2 l
2. 1993 Chevrolet K2500 V8 5.7 l
3. 1998 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 l
Thats all i got..
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Unread 08-25-2010, 08:33 AM   #6
Decscorpion
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Ugh
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1. 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 5.2 l
2. 1993 Chevrolet K2500 V8 5.7 l
3. 1998 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 l
Thats all i got..
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Unread 08-25-2010, 08:47 AM   #7
duke000088
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I got nothing for the transmission lines.

If you're really stuck and getting no where on the forums, stop over at the stealership parts counter. Smooth talk the parts guy into helping you out. I'm sure they can determine the o-ring size and possibly have the right ones in a plastic baggy that costs...oh I dunno 8 bucks for a 1 cent o-ring. But seriously, it is worth a shot if you're not getting any traction on the problem.
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Unread 08-25-2010, 04:59 PM   #8
250psd
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I don't know the size but it seems to be 1/2"-5/8". Lowes has oring assortments in the plumbing section (faucet repair) you don't have to buy them individually. Are you lubing up the oring before installation? A black oring needs to be lubed with a non petroleum based grease. Silicone grease will work best.
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Unread 08-25-2010, 09:10 PM   #9
two98ZJs
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I lubed that O-ring with Blk RTV and it has done great since last 12K miles. I believe it was about 5$ at the dealer's counter.

Push-comes-to-shove, I had planned to use the top-of-the dog food bag string with RTV if the ring couldn't be had, wrap it around the grove enough to interfear with the mating pump ID, soap it good w/RTV, good to go.
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Unread 09-29-2010, 10:23 PM   #10
kachink
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Water Pump O-Ring

I've been lurking for a while and getting a lot of info, but this is my 1st post. I know this thread is old, but I found it when I was trying to solve my water pump o-ring problem and didn't get the answer, so I thought I'd come back and add my 2 for the next guy.

When I changed my water pump a few weeks ago I used the o-ring that came with the pump. At the time I thought that it didn't seem to protrude from the groove very much, but when I lubed it with concentrated antifreeze I had trouble shoving the pipe in the hole by hand. A screwdriver against the mounting bracket and a tap with a hammer did the trick. I didn't use any RTV because an o-ring is a SEAL. In my opinion a properly designed setup with a properly installed o-ring (everything cleaned and lubed) shouldn't need RTV to do what it was designed to do.

Well, the next weekend I was crawling underneath to change a motor mount and noticed coolant on the front of the engine down by the oil pan. You guessed it, o-ring leak. Not much, but it obviously needed to be repaired.

The following weekend, armed with an assortment of metric o-rings and the advice of several forum posts to use RTV, I pulled it apart again. The OD of the pipe mic's at .625", but a smaller diameter o-ring will stretch pretty easily. The main thing is the cross section. I tried a 2.5mm cross section and the tap with the hammer trick wouldn't get it in. When I removed it, it had been almost sheared off by the shoulder (the ID of the hole). I didn't have calipers to measure the hole, but obviously not much clearance.

I popped on an o-ring with a 2mm cross section and tried again. One tap and it was in. I attached the two brackets and let it sit overnight to make sure the RTV was properly cured, then put the hoses on and filled it in the AM. It's held for a week and a half.

Some things that I would do next time: I had an aftermarket water pump, and it looked like the hole had been de-burred with a burr knife, but there was no chamfer on it. I remember thinking that the o-ring that came out seemed pretty flat for only being in there 2 weeks. I didn't have it later to inspect it more closely, but I may have sheared a little off the top when installing it. Next time I will check the hole before I install the pump and chamfer it with a countersink if necessary to assist in getting the o-ring in without damaging it. And even though I still think RTV shouldn't be necessary, I don't like getting stuck or re-doing things, so I'll probably use RTV the first time.

(tl;dr: For water pump hard pipe, o-ring with 2mm cross section + RTV. Next time I'll make sure there is a good chamfer on the hole to keep from damaging the o-ring when installing.)
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Unread 04-04-2013, 02:22 PM   #11
ghiotom
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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For the sake of future Google searches, I'm resurrecting this thread to say that I used a 1/2 in. ID x 5/8 in. OD x 1/16 in. thick O-ring on the hard pipe. I spread some Hylomar (Advanced Formula) on the pipe and O-ring and it slid right in with a good tight fit. It was a Danco #28 O-ring, in the plumbing section of my local Ace Hardware, 69 cents. I tried a 1/2 in. ID O-ring with a 3/32 in. thickness, but it was very difficult to get the pipe back in the water pump and it leaked after starting it up. Upon removal, it was quite mangled from the force to get it to seat in the water pump.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 07:42 PM   #12
two98ZJs
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Location: SW of Hou about 50 miles.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghiotom View Post
For the sake of future Google searches, I'm resurrecting this thread to say that I used a 1/2 in. ID x 5/8 in. OD x 1/16 in. thick O-ring on the hard pipe. I spread some Hylomar (Advanced Formula) on the pipe and O-ring and it slid right in with a good tight fit. It was a Danco #28 O-ring, in the plumbing section of my local Ace Hardware, 69 cents. I tried a 1/2 in. ID O-ring with a 3/32 in. thickness, but it was very difficult to get the pipe back in the water pump and it leaked after starting it up. Upon removal, it was quite mangled from the force to get it to seat in the water pump.
Hey Jeepster, welcome aboard!. This is good stuff you've dropped on here. Compared to my OTC purchase $5 price from the stealerShip.
The fix I stated in the posting, Aug '10 is still holding. http://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/2thumbup.gif

Good luck with the new seal.
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