[Virmagicus]

Just like the title says. I am currently having problems with my 46RH tranny. It all started out of the blue. Sometimes it will not downshift into first or jerk into first and also has delayed shift into second. I tried to retrieve the codes via the OD light but nothing happens? Where is Baxy when you need him?

[MN_NATV]

1, 2, and 3 aren't control by the PCM in the 46RH, they're controlled hydraulically. The only thing controlled electronically is torque convertor lockup and overdrive, but those codes will display on the check engine light. Codes via the OD light only work with the models that have a separate trans computer.

Sounds like it's time for a rebuild, that how mine started to act about 2 day before I lost all forward gears.

[Virmagicus]

Thanks for the input. I did know that shifts 1-3 are controlled hydraulically but i was unsure if any standard code should show via the OD light. It seems that it only does it sometimes though even when hot. Did you have the same symptoms?

[MN_NATV]

Very similar, mine started to shift erratically hot or cold, shift very harshly, delayed shifts, then I lost OD, then 3rd, then 2nd, then 1st. I still had reverse though. I had mine rebuilt at a local trans shop, they did a few upgrades while they had it apart.

Make sure whatever direction you go, either rebuild yours or get a used, check the flow through the cooler and lines. Nothing worse than sticking in a new trans and cooking it because the cooler and/or lines are plugged.

[Virmagicus]

Will do. I know about some of the upgrade kits. Is the 46RH considered the A518 or something like that? Will any 46-7RH out of a Dodge work? I was thinking about trying to rebuild but i do not have any of the special tools required.

[baxy]

well no downshift into first is usually a sticking govenor.... govenors do not stick for any other reason except contamination.
I have never seen a govenor stick one way then the other way so I believe you have at least 2 problems.
2nd gear late shift complaints I recieve from customers are usually a skipped 2nd shift with the trans going directly to 3rd.
for the sake of at least trying something before you goto a repair shop lets try to "RATTLE" the govenor.

This is not for the faint of heart
-find a parking lot that is empty and fairly large
-warm up vehicle
-drive to about 20 25 mph
-shift to neutral
-shut off engine
-gently slide the shifter towards park but DO NOT APPLY enough pressure to engage park
-you will hear a god awful sound like grinding gears that is what we are looking for
-just let it do this for a few seconds 1,2,3
-put shifter back into neutral , start engine and see how the trans is working

99% of the time this clears a sticky govenor, of course we know that the contamination has come from somewhere so this may just get you by for a little while

if you still have second gear problems then it is time to get the pan off and see what is inside

jeep transdmissions are different than truck ones , they are calibrated differently and I believe most jeeps have the starter on the opposite side as the trucks or dakotas do
47RH is a diesel unit

the only tricky part or a 46RH rebuild is the overdrive unit , you could probably handle the 3 speed section yourself as well as the OD section you just need a shop to press apart and reassemble the OD planet section... other then that nothing more than hand tools needed , the direct clutch may be a bit tough to get apart but a couple buddies and a few screw drivers wok in a pinch ( and a service manual)

[Virmagicus]

Thanks for your suggestions Baxy. Sounds like i may tackle the rebuild if you say it is easy if it turns out i indeed have to. I do have the ATSG manual along with the FSM.Which one should i trust? Can any cable adjustments be checked as well?

What manufacturer/upgrade kits would you recommend for the 46RH?

[baxy]

either maual is fine ATSG uses factory diagrams and specs
I use the SUPERIOR shift kits just get the regular shift correction package not the trans action
follow the instructions there is one JEEP specific step
upgrade to a 4 dics direct drum also the OD clutch can be upgraded by replacing the pressure plare thet is against the OD piston with 2 steels and an extra clutch plate (as assembled in the diesels)
replace all the thrust washers in the planets and inspect both sun gears for pitting buy a high eneryg front band (diesel)
one of these days I'm going to do a 46RE turotial but I'm usually too busy at work to take the time to snap all the necessary pics

[Virmagicus]

I tried the governor test and did seem to help some. Before, if i was at a stop sign with an incline it would not down shift into first. Now it will with a 1 second delay. It used to take off in second and then find first about halfway between the gears.

What i do not completely understand is if i am at an incline and it gets stuck in second if i move the shifter to 1 it will downshift right away into first gear?

I also remembered something else today. I had a cable come loose next to the throttle body awhile back. No adjustment on it, just a plastic end. Seemed to affect how the tranny shifted in relation to the gas pedal and throttle. Is this the kickdown/tv cable? If this tranny is 100% controlled hydraulically how could a cable cause such chaos? Just trying to wrap my head around this.

[MN_NATV]

There is an adjustment on that cable. That cable provides throttle position information to the valve body, which controls the shifts. If the transmission gets the wrong info, then it will shift wrong.

The procedure starts on the first page, and continues with pics on the second.

TV Adjustment

[Virmagicus]

That looks the cable closer to throttle body? This one just has a plastic end on it but it does snap on a stud. Looking for a pic...

[MN_NATV]

Here's a pic of the passenger side of the throttle body, the kickdown (TV) cable is the one that is by itself. It goes from the bellcrank to the left side of the pic, and the adjuster button is on the backside of the bracket. It's the square looking part.

[Virmagicus]

Yeah that's it on the left. I must have been thinking of something else lol. Anyway, i checked out the adjustment for the TV and it seems to be about 1/4" too long now. Must be stretched i think ? and it looks like the two are not moving in unison.

[MN_NATV]

It's adjustable, I posted a link to a PDF with the adjustment procedure a couple of posts up in this thread. Check it out, the adjuster button is the part of the cable on the backside of the bracket, facing the pass side.

[Virmagicus]

Yeah i checked that out. I was looking at my FSM as well and i just did not remember my TV cable having the adjustment. Thanks man.