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Unread 08-07-2012, 10:48 PM   #76
phitmein
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ZeeJay97, here is just another example of clean your connection first and I am glad to see you thinking about making it a sticky.

I have long thought that it should be a sticky or a national clean you connection day on older rides.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/w...fused-1400891/

I see on your profile that you have no one on your buddy list and all us old farts need all the new ones we can get because all our old ones are dieing left and right.

I found out tonight that a buddy's best friend has the terminal big C .

I don't mind getting old but watching friends die or suffer over the years sucks .

Please everyone, no need to say sorry about your friend's cancer because he is my friends best friend but I feel his pain too.

Anyway back to the point. I am adding you to my buddy list if you will have me .

Phit

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Unread 08-07-2012, 11:54 PM   #77
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ZeeJay97 add this to your easy no cost sticky list too .

If you are blowing fuses and your jeep acts crazy then crawl under your Heep and look at your O2 sensor wires and make sure that they are not worn through from friction/rubbing and grounding out somewhere .

Phit
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Unread 08-08-2012, 08:11 AM   #78
KoreaZJ
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...and all my skin grew back from the wire wheel that jumped onto the back of my hand

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Always !! Keep A Firm Grip On Your Tool !!
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Unread 08-08-2012, 11:22 AM   #79
cherokeen77
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ZeeJay, going to clean grounds not the sensors.

A little history on my problem:
It used to only sputter driving up big hills at high elevation, but never stalled. Reaplaced plugs, wires & dist cap and no issues for a few months. Then the gauges went haywire would die and then come back, check engine light came on. A few days later car died, so had AAA tow to the dealership. They said it was voltage regulator in the ECU, so got new ECU. Gauges work now, no issues for about 3 or 4 days. Then car started sputtering and stalling....possibly the initial sputtering issue had just gotten worse. Took it to my local shop, tried crankshaft position sensor, but it sputtered within 10 minutes of leaving that shop, so returned that part and got a refund. Mechanic thought it was probably the O2 sensors, so replaced those. Worked for about 3 days. Then on a trip down to Hollister last weekend, after about 80 miles of driving it starts to sputter (not at high altitude this time). 10 more miles and it stalls completely. Had to wait about 10 minutes before it would start again. I made it all the way back, about 100 miles and stalled about 4 times on the way home. A few of them on the freeway. It does seem to do it more often when I'm going slow, but does it also at high speed.

So now I'm investigating and trying to figure it out myself. Mechanics are horrible at finding intermittent problems. Checked the fuel rail & fuel injectors the other night based on another post (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/9...olved-1176480/), but didn't see any blockages there. Pulled the spark plugs, all except cylinder 3 were fine. Cylinder 3 spark plug was a solid mass, see picture. Not sure what happened, but am going to replace it and try cleaning the grounds tonight after work, let you know if it works. Trying to avoid throwing money at various sensors...starting with cheap and free.
photo.jpg  
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Unread 08-08-2012, 05:30 PM   #80
phitmein
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What kind of CPS did you use when you replaced it .
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Unread 08-08-2012, 06:30 PM   #81
cherokeen77
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not sure, my mechanic purchased and installed crankshaft position sensor..
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Unread 08-08-2012, 10:05 PM   #82
cherokeen77
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well i tried cleaning the grounds. although there was some gunk on the outside of the one on the engine block, there really wasn't too much gunk between the bolt and the lead on any of them. after i took a wire brush to everything i turned it on and just let it idle...didn't want to take it out and get stuck a few blocks over. engine stalled within 20 minutes. restarted it, engine stalled within 5 minutes. the second time when it stalled i had the hood open and though i hard something arc as it went out. sounded like it might have been in the neighborhood of the fuse box behind the battery.

if i coughed up the money for an obii code reader do you think that would catch it when it stalled out? anyone have a suggestion on which one to buy? they are pretty pricey at the local o'riley's auto parts...and you cannot return them after you open the box. doh!

thanks in advance for any help.
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Unread 08-08-2012, 10:27 PM   #83
hdrocknroll
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and all my skin grew back from the wire wheel that jumped onto the back of my hand
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Originally Posted by KoreaZJ View Post
Ya, Always !! Keep A Firm Grip On Your Tool !!
And if you are using a high speed wire wheel on a small part, walk to your vise and secure it, instead of trying to hold it with channel locks
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Always !! Keep A Firm Grip On Your Tool !!

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Unread 08-08-2012, 10:42 PM   #84
phitmein
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Originally Posted by hdrocknroll View Post
Ya, Always !! Keep A Firm Grip On Your Tool !!
And if you are using a high speed wire wheel on a small part, walk to your vise and secure it, instead of trying to hold it with channel locks
And wear good eye protection .

I have had wire pieces slung off and get imbeded in my fingers and I would hate life it was one of my eyes instead .
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Unread 09-03-2012, 07:05 PM   #85
cherokeen77
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So far I've cleaned the grounds, replaced both oxygen sensors, crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor & wires, new alternator, new battery, new ECU.... Went on a trip this weekend and its still stalling. Mostly under load when going up hill. Seems like its misfiring, the #3 spark plug looks fouled, but can't figure out why. Will let you know once I get it figured out. Anyone have any more suggestions??
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Unread 09-03-2012, 08:06 PM   #86
phitmein
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can't you swap your #3 injector and with another injector and see what happens ?
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Unread 09-04-2012, 08:41 AM   #87
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^ agree, but you may want to check the continuity in the #3 plug wire 1st. Or just switch the whole wire with another similar length plug wire and see if the misfire moves.

Did you go with a Mopar crank sensor this time? If not you may be asking for problems. You can check the CKP by undoing the connector and hold the plug/connector to the CKP with the locking tab up. Then take a multimeter set to the lowest ohm setting and put the probes on the middle pin (B) and right pin (C). If it shows any resistance at all the crank sensor is bad (per FSM). Also most often a bad CKP won't throw a code.

I remember ZeeJay saying when he was having real problems climbing any type of grade/hill his ZJ was bogging down really bad with no power. Turned out to be a clogged/bad cat but don't believe it was misfiring. Also we both had vacuum leak problems when replacing the headers. Turned out to be the brake vacuum booster rubber grommet which has a large line to the intake.
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 09-04-2012, 06:05 PM   #88
ZeeJay1997
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but don't believe it was misfiring.
It threw a code 030(#) if I stayed on it above 3K, preceded by valve rattling and no guts.
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Unread 09-04-2012, 11:04 PM   #89
Uniblurb
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It threw a code 030(#) if I stayed on it above 3K, preceded by valve rattling and no guts.
Thanks for the info. So isn't 030 actually the code for an o2 sensor but actually it was a clogged cat?
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 09-05-2012, 05:12 AM   #90
ZeeJay1997
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Thanks for the info. So isn't 030 actually the code for an o2 sensor but actually it was a clogged cat?
I probably should have said that it would throw code for cylinder misfire, usually number one, but sometimes number three.
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