no power locks on drivers and rear drivers. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 28 Old 07-15-2013, 06:18 PM
Kingr98
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Madison
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Have you checked to see if there is power to the switch? Even with the replaced wire harness, you still don't know if the power is getting to the harness.

You could also try connecting a 12V battery directly to the actuator leads to make sure that they are still working.

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post #17 of 28 Old 07-16-2013, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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anyone else? I know the actuators work like i said i saw them work in my parts jeep.
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post #18 of 28 Old 07-16-2013, 11:50 AM
Lakoswolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcaliber81 View Post
Pre 96 did not have a BCM.
^This. What noodles5124 said: Check the door harnesses first for breaks as that tends to be a very common issue when it comes to the door electronics on these vehicles. I used to have similar issues regarding both locks and Windows all of which were resolved after I repaired the door harnesses.

Did you pull parts from a Jeep in the same year range as yours? I believe that the lock mechanisms changed between the 1993-95 and 1996-98 ZJs.

"Those who say it cannot be done should not interrupt the one doing it." -Chinese Proverb
----------------------
93' Grand Cherokee 5.2 Ltd. - Mine
93' Grand Wagoneer 5.2- Dad's
93' Grand Cherokee 4.0 Ltd. (Deceased)
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post #19 of 28 Old 07-16-2013, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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Everything I took was from a 93 I have no broken wires in the boot its been replaced and I keep saying it over and over ive ruled out the doors wherever the problem is its not in my doors or the door woring harnesses.
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post #20 of 28 Old 07-16-2013, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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I did some tracing and heres what I found, the pk/vt wire that goes from the drivers lock to the 100-1 way connector I used an ohm meter and connected from the door switch to the 100-1 way has current, from the pk/vt wire from the unlock relay to the 100-1 way connection so that being said I have power from the relay to the switch I am seriously stumped now and desperately need some advice I know the actuators work.
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post #21 of 28 Old 07-16-2013, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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Nevermind I figured out the right pin numbers on the relays. now I can test with an ohm meter tomorrow.
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post #22 of 28 Old 07-18-2013, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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Ive narrowed it down to the chime module.
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post #23 of 28 Old 07-19-2013, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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OK I found a bad or multiple bad grounds not to sure yet, pin 3 of the chime should be 0 fsm says it should be mine is 15.something, also also terminal 5 of the unlock relay is also not 0 and it should be says the fsm. Now that I have that figured out is it 1 bad ground or 2 bad grounds?
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post #24 of 28 Old 07-20-2013, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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Page 8w-85 of the fsm for the 94 grand cherokee where do all those grounds meet up? just behind the cluster? some input would be greatly appreciated on this it is just a bad ground.
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post #25 of 28 Old 07-20-2013, 02:39 AM
Adam86
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On two occasions I've lost power to my drives side (right side here in England) door locks and Windows. Both times I've disconnected the battery for 10mins and its fixed the problem.
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post #26 of 28 Old 07-20-2013, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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Yea I wish I just hope my dash does not need to come out. so anyone know where those grounds meet up?
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post #27 of 28 Old 02-23-2014, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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So after 2.5 years having no locks on the left I finally got them fixed. Turns out it was a pinched wire somewhere behind the dash new wire problem solved.
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post #28 of 28 Old 02-23-2014, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
xcaliber81
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Man I love the sound of 5 working locks kts like a piece of heaven everytime I push lock or unlock. Now I can keyless entry this is what ive been waiting for.
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