i had the standard melt down in my 2003 grand cherokee, replaced the resitor (wiggled the conection one too may times and fried the corner of the board) but now i have no power coming in. though i may have blown a fuse in the process but they all check out fine. is there an in line that i'm missing some place??
[SIZE="1"]2008 WK Overland HEMI - Modern Blue Pearlcoat
Fully loaded with slush mats of course.
MUST GO! 1994 Limited ZJ 5.2L V8 - Light Driftwood Satin Glow
It's a 94 5.2L Limited - trxus 33's on 15x7 steelies, 4.56s w/ front OX and rear trutrac, NP242 swap, novak shift kit, Kevin's ultimate 4.5" lift + ACOS, ARB front bumper w/warn M8000, rear tomkin machine bumper w/ tire carrier, kevin's hardore railz, kevin's ultimate tc skid, kevin's trackbar conversion, rusty's gas skid, flexalite efan, Kolak's performance ignition and brake upgrades. ViAir OBA, custom storage/sub box and I'm sure there's a bunch of other things I'm missing. Everything is a little over 3 years old with less than 10K miles. Looking to get around $4k.
yes i spliced in a new plug but i no longer have any juice to the red lead coming into the resitor, it was hot whin i started but i may have shorted it out blowing a fuse. i checked all the fuses under the hood and under the dash. all checked out fine with a meter.
i was wondering if there was an inline fuse somewhere, as the owners maual dosn't even list it in the fuse "boxes"
a wiring diagram might help if anybdy knows where ther is one on line.
1. Blower motor power feed circuit fuse may be blown.
2. COLD ENGINE LOCK OUT FEATURE: Some models with auto temp control (ATC) incorporate a feature involving the body control module that prevents blower motor operation when engine coolant temp is below approx (98F) degrees. This feature is cancelled if manual blower motor fan speed is selected.
3. CIRCUIT WIRING AND CONNECTORS: Check all related circuit wiring / connectors / power feed and ground connections. Check for poor pin connections and chafed wiring harness (rub through) causing short to power or ground. Check blower motor control switch (fan switch) operation. Check blower motor relay.
4. INSTRUMENT PANEL SIDE BOLTS: Some models use the large bolts at each end of the instrument / dash panel to provide ground path to the chassis. Check for secure and clean connection at instrument panel side bolts.
5. POWER MODULE: Some models equipped with auto temp control (ATC) use a power module to engage the blower motor relay. Check ATC power module operation. Replace ATC power module as required. IMPORTANT Verify correct wiring harness and resistor card is used for proper blower motor operation.
6. IGNITION SWITCH: Some models use the ignition switch to engage the blower motor relay. Defective ignition switch may allow the blower motor to operate with the ignition off. Check ignition switch operation and related circuit wiring to blower motor relay.
7. BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR: Some models use a blower motor circuit resistor which will disengage power feed to the blower motor if high circuit load is detected. Blown resistor may indicate interference or drag is being placed on the blower motor fan or the blower motor has an internal problem. Blower motor may operate on one speed only if resistor is blown on some models. Suggest blower motor amperage draw test. Amp draw should be approx (13-17) amp when blower is operating on high mode. Check all related circuit wiring and replace blower motor if higher than normal amperage draw is detected.
8. BLOWER MOTOR FAN: Check blower motor fan (squirrel cage) for debris or damage. Verify fan is secure to blower motor shaft.
9. BLOWER MOTOR: Check blower motor operation manually with jumper test wires to power source and ground. Replace blower motor if internal problem is suspected.
nope, and they told me they couldn't show me a wiring diagram (i wanted to see if there was a fusable link shown) all i can say is to disconect the batery before cutting the wire, it's hot all the time, even with the key off.