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Unread 01-06-2014, 04:45 PM   #16
chiefjohnston
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the hose from the thermostat is the water going into heater core, the hose on the side of valve cover, (pointing toward firewall) is the return.
Hope this helps!

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Unread 01-06-2014, 04:48 PM   #17
Gearhead31
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If it were me, I wouldn't want more than max 20 psi EVER building up in the cooling system. The radiator caps are supposed to purge pressure around 16 psi, it's not recommended to go above 18 on the cap. That leaves logic that the safe operating point is around 14-16psi. With that said, start off slow and go from there, maybe 60psi output on an air nozzle if you don't have a complete clog? if that doesn't do it, bump up another 20. Mine, I don't set the regulator above 90 but that's what my air nozzle's brass tip is rated for. Some electrical tape around that to seal it up good and you can have a MUCH safer and more controlled air purge instead of crimping high pressure hoses *cringes*. HF has some fittings that may work perfect for that, if you have some time to mess around with them
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Unread 01-06-2014, 04:50 PM   #18
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeepguy View Post
Do a reverse flush on the core.
If the heater core is a little plugged it is a safe bet that the radiator may be too, so when you reverse flush the heater core you should do the radiator too.
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Unread 01-07-2014, 12:52 PM   #19
KillaJeep4569
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Welllll Today was super cold, about 7 degrees out side, Drove truck to train station this morning and she was fine. On my way home the truck started to get hot. I see my temp gauge reading 240 so I was like wtf.
Then she hit 260 and then Bamn Sumthing Pops and antifreeze all over the place. So I pulled over I should have done that when I saw the temp rising but I was a couple blocks from home and didnt think she was over heating.

I replaced the radiator in the summer too. So I dont know why she would be backed up or would have this happen.

What do you think could of went?

And as for the antifreeze it was totally brown!!!

Do you think I have a faulty Water pump?

Seems like I have a clog somewhere, or some water froze in the lines. All I can tthink of.
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Unread 01-07-2014, 01:53 PM   #20
PolkaPower
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Is it oil in the coolant?
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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:03 PM   #21
KillaJeep4569
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Is it oil in the coolant?
I hope not, How do you tell the difference. I think Its rust. but how does one tell
im hoping I blew just the radiator
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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:03 PM   #22
Uniblurb
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Hopefully you just blew the pressure off through the cap or a weak hose blew rather than something more severe.

If the coolant was brown from rust/crud most like it has the fins/slots in your new rad clogged up preventing flow rather than the water pump. This can also cause the thermostat to stick closed causing overheating issues. No flush of the system prior to installing a new rad?
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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:06 PM   #23
KillaJeep4569
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Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Hopefully you just blew the pressure off through the cap or a weak hose blew rather than something more severe.

If the coolant was brown from rust/crud most like it has the fins/slots in your new rad clogged up preventing flow rather than the water pump. This can also cause the thermostat to stick closed causing overheating issues. No flush of the system prior to installing a new rad?
Yeah Thats what I am thinking But How can the new rad clog up so fast its just about a year old.

And what do you guys mean flush?
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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:36 PM   #24
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillaJeep4569 View Post
Yeah Thats what I am thinking But How can the new rad clog up so fast its just about a year old.

And what do you guys mean flush?
If you just drain the coolant from the rad when installing a new one you could be leaving about 30%-40% of the nasty rust/crud coolant still in the system and then it mixes with new.

Typically if the bad rad to be replaced isn't leaking a whole lot I'll drain it, add a bottle of fast flush, fill with water, then run it quite a while with heater on high and thermostat open. Then I'll drain the fast flush and run plain water through it a couple times until it's perfectly clear. Again, make sure the heater is on high so it goes through the heater core and thermostat is open.

You also need to remove the overflow tank and clean it out real good because the crud in the bottom will be pulled right back into the cooling system as it heats/cools.

Edit/BTW, make sure you mix your new coolant with distilled water since most tap/municipal water supplies have way too many minerals in it which also leads to clogging cooling systems. It's less than a buck a gal and worth it.
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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:51 PM   #25
KillaJeep4569
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Well I got the Truck Home inspected to see anything wrong. and I blew the top radiator hose. But My coolant is brown and rusty.

Im thinking to replace the water pump, thermostat and the hose. Flush the system and Flush the heater core and go from there.
hoping this will bring back the heat.
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Unread 01-07-2014, 09:25 PM   #26
Gearhead31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillaJeep4569 View Post
Well I got the Truck Home inspected to see anything wrong. and I blew the top radiator hose. But My coolant is brown and rusty.

Im thinking to replace the water pump, thermostat and the hose. Flush the system and Flush the heater core and go from there.
hoping this will bring back the heat.
It's wise to replace as much as possible. Replace both rad hoses and thermostat close together. Do that and do what you can to flush the radiator out thoroughly and you should see a huge change.

Sent from mobile, where errors are common and I'm too lazy to correct them.
Gearhead31 Hooah!
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[QUOTE=JasonStebbins]We can call it the Whoosh King Catalog System. :D[/QUOTE]
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Unread 01-08-2014, 03:52 PM   #27
KillaJeep4569
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Ok guys Well I just did a Rad Flush and cleaning. put new fluids in and the truck still is over heating.
Is my thermostat stuck closed? Or is my Water pump bad?
trying to figure this out, just want my heat back hehe
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Unread 01-08-2014, 07:29 PM   #28
rlcii77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillaJeep4569 View Post
Ok guys Well I just did a Rad Flush and cleaning. put new fluids in and the truck still is over heating.
Is my thermostat stuck closed? Or is my Water pump bad?
trying to figure this out, just want my heat back hehe

In my experience, the thermostats weren't opening correctly causing an overheating condition on the 5.9, the '94 V8 ZJ and the '91 XJ... Only time the water pumps were an issue, the '94's pump "weaped" coolant out the bottom, but never failed entirely before being replaced...

The possibilities are, most likely, a malfunctioning thermostat or water pump, if there's no head gasket issues or a leak somewhere in the heating/cooling system, belt slippage or obstructed water passage(s)... There's not much more to the system that hasn't already been mentioned, but I'd start with replacing the thermostat, maybe removing it for another flush, then replacing with a quality Stant or Gates at the end of the "treatment"...

There's usually a heater bypass house that feeds the heater core without regard for thermostat position... Hopefully, the thermostat and even a new pump, if it hasn't been changed for several years, will cure all your Jeep's symptoms and you won't have to tackle the heater core... It's not difficult, but, much, much more time consuming than anything else on the system to maintain... If you do end up having to replace the heater core, do the EVAP core as well while your in there, if finances allow it...

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Unread 01-11-2014, 12:48 PM   #29
KillaJeep4569
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Well I replaced the water pump and the thermostat and my Temps are a ton better and no over heating at all.
only thing now is. the heat.

The Heat is Hot for 5 seconds and then goes mild after that. Not hot or warm at all. But if I turn it off let it sit for a minute
then turn on, its Hot for 5 seconds then mild. What gives????
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Unread 01-11-2014, 12:49 PM   #30
PolkaPower
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Blend door is closing?
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