Is New Rear Main Seal Bad Already? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 23 Old 03-28-2014, 11:25 PM
davidtownsend
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2006 WK 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Notch306 View Post
If there is that much oil already then i would say it was a improper installation. However, i did a rear main seal on my 5.2 and it still leaked oil. Recently pulled the transmission and noticed the oil leak was coming from the camshaft plug. Replaced the plug and put some sealant on it and the leak is gone now
Don't mean to jack this thread but I did my rear main myself and i put the seals in the right way and it still leaks. I changed my oil pressure sensor and valve cover gaskets so I'm thinking it's this camshaft plug. Do you have any pictures?


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post #17 of 23 Old 03-31-2014, 09:41 PM
90Notch306
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidtownsend View Post
Don't mean to jack this thread but I did my rear main myself and i put the seals in the right way and it still leaks. I changed my oil pressure sensor and valve cover gaskets so I'm thinking it's this camshaft plug. Do you have any pictures?
I do not have any pictures but once you pull the trans you'll see it right in the middle. I also changed the freeze plugs while I was there so I didnt have to pull the trans a second time
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post #18 of 23 Old 03-31-2014, 10:11 PM
davidtownsend
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Notch306 View Post

I do not have any pictures but once you pull the trans you'll see it right in the middle. I also changed the freeze plugs while I was there so I didnt have to pull the trans a second time
I might had had to do this. I really don't want to pull though. Thank you!

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post #19 of 23 Old 07-15-2014, 06:27 PM
GeneralTJWillys
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Just had engine in my TJ rebuilt due to a poor oil pan install after new oil pump was put in. Wheeled the following weekend and sandy water flooded the pan past an improperly installed pan gasket. Yes...liquid sandpaper throughout the engine.

So now...the engine runs perfectly again BUT...I have a major leak at the rear. Swapped the new DNJ main seal with a better Fel-Pro seal. SAME leak...major. Also checked for leak from valve cover and all other usual suspect places. All bone dry.

Now I am in process of pulling the TRANSMISSION and am going to check the rear block plugs. Once trans is out...since I can't start it...I will pull the OPDA and run a priming rod with my 3/8 drill and eyeball the rear of the block to see what gives.

Wish me luck and free beer deliveries. I may need plenty of both before it's over! And I will post my findings.

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post #20 of 23 Old 07-15-2014, 07:04 PM
jay-h
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Originally Posted by PHARIS88 View Post
So drove the Jeep 40 miles round trip to work and back.. and no LEAKS! HOWEVER!!! My oil pressure gauge will run at about 40-45psi going down the highway at 65mph... (WHICH I KNOW IS NORMAL). BUT I have been paranoid that something is wrong, b/c before the new tranny, new rear main seal, after the new oil pan gasket, and new oil filter.. my pressure gauge seemed to ALWAYS be at 40 and rarely went above or below it. NOW the gauge will go all the way down to about 18-20... Oil light doesn't come on and I'm not leaking oil (as of right now) lol

I researched the threads about "normal pressure" and some threads say it's normal some say I need a motor ha

Sound normal to you?

There is some truth to that. Exact pressure is not important. If you pressure starts dropping (under comparable conditions) is the more significant issue.

My ZJ (which I consider a clean, healthy engine) holds about 40. My 258 will run about 60 at speed.

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post #21 of 23 Old 07-16-2014, 02:54 AM
AVR2
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2002 WJ 
 
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Factory spec for the oil pressure only gives minimum acceptable readings, so as long as you're above those, you're OK. The 4.0L should have a minimum of 13 psi at idle, and 37 psi at 1600rpm or above.
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post #22 of 23 Old 07-17-2014, 09:16 PM
Scrubberguy
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10 pounds per 1000 RPM was what I was taught during racing days.
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post #23 of 23 Old 07-25-2014, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
PHARIS88
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Location: Fairview / Allen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrubberguy View Post
10 pounds per 1000 RPM was what I was taught during racing days.
That sounds about right, since I fixed everything it will idle around 13psi and get all the way up to 45-50 depending on the speed

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